Author Topic: Bandit handlebar modification (Read 7096 times)

cubby1200 · « **on:** September 21, 2005, 11:10:58 AM »

Good morning, I am new to this so bear with me. I have read the past posts on handlebars and was wondering if the wires, electrical, brake and clutch wires will extend to make new bars work, or if all of those wires need to be extended or replaced. Also, I have a dealer who told me to buy Harley XL bars from a local shop. I am not looking for much when it comes to a new seating position. I really like the way the Yamaha FZ1 sits which isn't a whole lot different from my Bandit. One last question, has anyone just adjusted the clamps and moved the handlebars slightly more towards the rider versus towards the gauges? I thank you for your replies. ('04 Bandit 1200S)

ray nielsen · « **Reply #1 on:** September 21, 2005, 11:45:29 AM »

I added Gen-Mar set backs which raised the bars about 1" and moved them back about 1 and 3/8". Then, for more comfort I installed longer bolts and a 1" spacer under the Gen-Mar units. Total rise is about 2" with 1 and 3/8" set back.

With those mods I found I had to reposition the clutch hose a bit forward and relocate the choke and throttle cables to the rear of the fork tubes to be sure of non-binding. The Gen-Mar adapters included a new brake hose which works well, even with the further raising (1") of the adapters.

Relocating the cables was done by disconnecting them at the handlebar ends and rerouting, then reconnecting. The brake hose required bleeding the brakes upon installation. The clutch hose was secured by a bracket under the gas tank and a rubber spacer needed to be cut a bit to allow about 1/2" of forward relocation.

The newfound comfort is welcomed -- I can now travel all day in relative ease -- limited only by butt burn!

PeteSC · « **Reply #2 on:** September 21, 2005, 02:09:17 PM »

If you buy OEM FZ1 bars, they aren't going to be cheap!
There's probably something aftermarket in the same shape, cheaper.

Like Ray said, there is some play in the cables, wires, and hoses.

Risers, from various sources, are a cheap start......

Go ahead, and rotate the bars back a bit. A lot of how the bike is assembled, and by who...determines on how the bars are 'set' upon assembly.

Red01 · « **Reply #3 on:** September 21, 2005, 06:37:00 PM »

The 1G B12 bar is ~1" taller than the 2G, so if you can find someone who wants to trade, it's a win-win situation. I think you can get away with only minor adjustments/relocations with this swap, but anything more WILL require a new, longer, front brake hose. This would be the perfect time to upgrade the front hoses to stainless steel, which come long enough to accomodate more changes in the bar/riser. There's a wealth of handlebars out there that are under $50, so IMHO, this is a cheaper and better looking way to go than risers.

fartndust · « **Reply #4 on:** September 23, 2005, 12:15:15 AM »

In answer to your question...I rolled the stock bars back on my B12 about an inch or so. It made for a LITTLE more comfort, but not much. I'm with everyone else on this one..that's the addition of 1" risers at a minimum. I just got back from 980 miles of riding over 3 days...my butt is sore and my right hand is a bit swollen, but overall I really enjoyed the trip. My riding partner has a ST1300, and not only is his arms and butt sore, he can hardly stand up straight!! sheeesh!

Goood times

billster · « **Reply #5 on:** September 26, 2005, 06:03:09 AM »

Did a 400 mile jaunt up into New England on Sat. with a few friends from up there. About 150mi. of severe twisty roads. Sat. night had bad forearm/elbow pain and think it's due to the amount of pullback on these stock bars. On the ride home kept trying different hand positions that simulated less pullback and it alleviated the stress on the lower arms. I'm thinking about flatter drag bars since I'm looking to go lower anyway...much cheaper than the Pro-Tek clipons I keep considering. Only thing is will the 1" rise in the tubes i've done clear the flat bars? Hmm. $24 is not a big investment from SpeedMotoCo anyway.

Bill

Red01 · « **Reply #6 on:** September 26, 2005, 02:12:36 PM »

Quote from: "billster"

Only thing is will the 1" rise in the tubes i've done clear the flat bars? Hmm. $24 is not a big investment from SpeedMotoCo anyway.

Probably not. Sight across the top of your tubes, in toward the handlebar clamp and see if your tubes are taller than the handlebar cutout.

You can always put the tubes back to stock (or in that direction at least) to provide the clearance and get the handling charateristics you want by raising the tail with shorter dogbones or a Hayabusa shock.

billster · « **Reply #7 on:** September 26, 2005, 05:07:24 PM »

Yer right! Was just down there lookin'. Drag bars won't clear. Payday this week. Just might go for the clipons....I owe it to moi!

Bill

wrecker · « **Reply #8 on:** September 27, 2005, 10:09:03 PM »

I 've got a pair of protek clip-ons that were on my bike for a short time. make me an offer I can't refuse.

I'll be at Myrtle Beach this week, so if you can wait I can reply next week.

billster · « **Reply #9 on:** September 27, 2005, 10:23:09 PM »

PM'd ya!

Twardc · « **Reply #10 on:** September 29, 2005, 03:12:48 PM »

Hey man how much do you want for the proteks and what year will they fit and also naked or S. Thanks

davesavvy · « **Reply #11 on:** September 30, 2005, 07:37:47 PM »

Did you see this post of mine yet?

http://forums.banditalley.net/viewtopic.php?t=1908

billster · « **Reply #12 on:** September 30, 2005, 08:18:48 PM »

thanks....lookin' to get lower though. was also checking out the Helibars ala the ones for the SV650 but in 43mm....clamp to the tubes just beneath the upper clamp and have rise to them to bring them up to the level of the Pro-Tek. The model for the CBR600F/F1 is in 43mm. Don't want to get upright...I'm NEKKID dewd!