Adjustable Ignition Advancer

[lucas]

Hi,

I know a lot of posts have been written that relate to this modification so please suffer my question without sending me to the search capability. But exactly why does this improve throtle response? I'm less interested in the how (which seems very easy) I'm curious about what exactly is causing the engine to run better. Why is it that larger holes have this effect?

Lastly, do you need a new gasket when you put the cover back on?

The 9 Step Program On How To Make Your Own Adjustable Ignition Advancer
It's easy and best of all, it's FREE.

Step 1: Remove the Signal Generator Cover (right/front engine cover).
Step 2: Remove the trigger rotor by removing the bolt in the center.
Step 3: Remove the 3 screws holding the ignition plate and loosen the plate.
Step 4: Enlarge the bolt holes in clockwise direction. *

 

Step 5: Reinstall the plate and trigger.
Step 6: Torque the trigger bolt to 25-34Nm/18-25.5lbft.
Step 7: Rotate the plate counterclockwise and tighten the 3 screws.
Step 8: Reinstall the cover.
Step 9: Testride time!

* How much should you enlarge the holes/rotate the plate?
Enlarge the holes ~5mm. The amount of advance should be 3-5° and 1° is ~1mm of slotting the plate.
A dyno test will find the best setting, but if you have no dyno and the motor is not highly modified, try 5° first.

Be careful not to over do it and listen for engine detonation which usually occurs at low RPM and high load (lugging).
On a basically stock (rejetted fits in this category) engine you may seet 1-2 Hp in the midrange, but mostly it's improved response.

Aftermarket advance triggers you can by have usually a fixed setting of 5°, so if you don't go any wilder with your slotting than that, you should be safe.

NOTE:Since Fast Larry's site keeps getting hacked or otherwise going off-line and this is a popular question, I'm going to put a copy of this How-To in the FAQ's
_________________
Paul
2001 GSF1200S
Put the juice to the moose and let 'er loose!
 
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[Red01]

If you're careful when you remove the cover, you can usually re-use it. You can also use your favorite RTV gasket-in-a-tube, so a new gasket is not a must, even if you damaged it.

The reason this works is you're altering when the spark plugs fire. The factory sets the timing to meet their design requirements - part of which is to meet emission standards. By advancing the timing 3-5 degrees, you're giving the engine a little head start of getting the fuel mix burned.

[lucas]

Hi,

Thanks for the response. So the fuel is being burned after the piston is at the top or before or right at the top?

OK, and I hate to show my ignorance. But what is a dremmel. Sounds like something from "Lord of the Rings".

Last question: How will this mod effect fuel milage?

Thanks

[rspector]

a dremmel is a tool that looks like a little drill with attachments, they also run at a very high rpm, I picked up a dremmel knock off at my local hardware store for under 50 bucks

[2005B12S]

Do a google seach for "motorcycle ignition timing" and you will find more info than you need to know.

One point is that advancing the timing past a certain point will create extra heat with no gain in performance- this probably will cause detonation. Obviously you will know when you get there, but my question is why experiment when you do not have to? Elongating the mounting holes and rotating the trigger plate is all guesswork. How much advance are you setting and what if you want to go back to stock?

Why not buy the $50 5 degree advancer and leave well enough alone. Probably save a few headaches along the way. $50 is money well spent here, if you screw up the trigger plate its gonna cost more than this to buy another.  

Just another perspective.
Either way, Good Luck, Ed.

[Red01]

2005B12S: Elongating the mounting holes and rotating the trigger plate is all guesswork. How much advance are you setting and what if you want to go back to stock?

1mm of slotting = 1* of timing
Or pretty darn close according to Fast Larry's site as well as a few others I've found over the years - on the Suzuki SACS motors anyway.

You're only slotting to one direction, so if you want to go back to stock, you just rotate the plate back to the stock end of the slot.

That said... I have a 5* advancer on mine - but it came with the jet kit.

[2005B12S]

2005B12S: Elongating the mounting holes and rotating the trigger plate is all guesswork. How much advance are you setting and what if you want to go back to stock?

1mm of slotting = 1* of timing
Or pretty darn close according to Fast Larry's site as well as a few others I've found over the years - on the Suzuki SACS motors anyway.

You're only slotting to one direction, so if you want to go back to stock, you just rotate the plate back to the stock end of the slot.

That said... I have a 5* advancer on mine - but it came with the jet kit.

Too much guesswork when the proper fix is $50. Guess I'm a big spender

[zaphoid42]

lucas had asked "So the fuel is being burned after the piston is at the top or before or right at the top? "

The answer is all the above.

On a old car at idle, you set the ignition to 10 degrees BTC.  Ignition thus starts and finishes at its own pace, regardless of engine speed.  Combustion would finish after TC.  Peak cylinder pressure occuring soon after TC.

The faster the engine is running, the farther the advance has to be, on the old car, thats what the distributor did.

Get things to far advanced and knock occures.  Modren cars and computers test this, using an accelerometer to look for knock, then lessining the advance as needed.

Had an 1988 Thunderbird turbo, fun to run at the track, just unplug the knock sensor, advance the timming a bit, supprise the 5.0 mustang types.