Excellent information here............
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TxB6RydrLocation: East Texas
Posted: Sat Feb 05, 2005 10:29 am
Post subject: Rebound Damper??
So I was sittin' around waiting on the last drop of oil to drain and remembered the PreLoad Adjustment thread and Riding 2 Up thread. Got out the Haynes manual and started poking around - now I see the need for a cheater bar on the preload. So - I read further and see another knob that can be twisted and changed - the cool thing is it moved without any tools. So, what is this rebound dampener adjustment about - what conditions require position 4 vs. position 1?? I changed it up and bounced on the bike a few times - there is a difference but how do I use that to my advantage?
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'01 Bandit 600 S
'92 Astro - "Ol' Blue" (228,000 miles and counting)
Red01Location: WA, USA
Posted: Sat Feb 05, 2005 10:28 pm
It controls how fast the shock returns (rebounds) after it has been compressed.
Adjust it to where it works best for you and your style of riding.
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Paul
B12TeutonLocation: Hotlanta, GA, USA
Posted: Mon Feb 07, 2005 10:05 am
What Paul said.
Basically it works in harmony with the spring setting. If your preload is soft (if you don't weigh much or just want a comfortable ride) you won't need much rebound dampening. Setting 1 or 2 will be fine.
If you ride aggressive and want a tighter feel, you'll run more spring preload. Assuming you weigh the same (no passenger) you need to be able to control the new stiffness so it doesn't act like a pogo-stick. If you are in a turn, for example, and hit a dip in the road, the shock compresses. If you do not have enough rebound dampening dialed in, it will rebound too fast which will unsettle the bike and, in extreme cases, can unweight the rear tire enough to loose traction causing a highside get-off
Select setting 3 or 4.
Conversely, if you have too much rebound dampening and not enough spring preload, the suspension will "pack down". That is, over a series of bumps in the road the suspension will compress. Each time the suspension looses a little ground because it is not able to extend back to it's starting position before the next bump in the road. This will cause the ass end to ride low and mess with your steering geometry and the balance of the bike.
Balance is the key word here.
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Manny
"Bikeless in Atlanta"
TxB6RydrLocation: East Texas
Posted: Mon Feb 07, 2005 11:07 am
Thanks....... just the information i needed.
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'01 Bandit 600 S
'92 Astro - "Ol' Blue" (228,000 miles and counting)
PitterB4Location: Oxford, PA, USA
Posted: Mon Feb 07, 2005 11:14 am
Jeesh, Manny. That was like a doctoral thesis. Nicely done. I was wonding the same thing about the B12 shock I'm putting on the B4 (which is ever-nearer to installation).
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Rob
'93 Bandit 400
A red-stater in a blue state
Red01Location: WA, USA
Posted: Mon Feb 07, 2005 12:13 pm
Same rules, Rob... Manny has just given you the first day's class in Suspension 101. :msm:
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Paul
B12TeutonLocation: Hotlanta, GA, USA
Posted: Mon Feb 07, 2005 3:39 pm
The same stuff applies to the front end and gives some insight to the frustration some people have with the B12 front end. The preload is adjustable, but dampening is not. The fork is acually well balanced... but not for the average B12 with rider. The spring rate is too soft, so you have to cranck down the spring to get more action. You can not compensate the dampening when you do this, so the front end is all out of sorts and not balanced. A set of stiff and more progressively wound springs solves the preload shortcomings and some thicker fork oil will slow the action down to where it should be.
Then you can get into WHICH spring rate is right for you and what oil weight will work best with it. Also they can be revalved to change the dampening action without (or with) a change in oil weight.
Depending on how much you ride, you should change fork oil every few years.
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Manny
"Bikeless in Atlanta"