Bandit Alley
MODEL SPECIFIC => BIG BANDIT BANTER => Topic started by: SteelD on November 19, 2007, 09:15:09 AM
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I know some of you guys have fitted the DL650 hand/knuckle guards on the 1200/1250 but I have a question. I just fitted some this weekend. However, one problem. The replacement pivot bold for the clutch lever does not have the same width shoulder all the way down to the where the thread starts. This means that that the clutch lever is pivoting around only the top half of the yoke leading to potential increased wear and failure.
The DL650 has a cable operated clutch I believe (hence the rubber boot supplied but redundant on the 1250) but I assume that the lever is different (it has to be) and that the pivot hole is not the same size throughout.
For those owner who have fitted these hanguards, what was your solution to this?
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Yes your right the new bolt does have a shorter shoulder. probubly due in part because cable units hand levers and there pivot points are inherently much slimmer. I can tell you that when I installed them on my B1200 before selling it I put about 3000 miles on them with no ill effect, perhaps because even though there is a smaller area to pivot on its still adequate since hydraulics requires less stress then a cable pull. I went ahead and installed the same guards on my B1250 as well and figure if I ever feel any strange lever pull due to the beginnings of uneven ware, I can always revert back until I find a proper replacement bolt with an extended shoulder.
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Thanks for that CWO4GUNNER. I'm going to see if I can buy the bolt for the DL1000 separately. That has a hydraulic clutch and I guess the same pivot bold as used on the 1250. I'll let you know how I get on.
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Is the stock DL650 bolt long enough that you could put a bushing on to effectively extend the shoulder further? Just a thought.
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I haven't tried but you can probubly match the bolt up with a standard equivalent at a NAPA or hardware store.
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Might be a little tough for a shoulder bolt, Gunner, but can't hurt to check out local hardware & auto parts emporiums.
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Of course I have a special assorted bolt box where me and my dad before me tossed in every type of automotive, machine and motorcycle bolt not utilized, over 50 pounds for sure. I have found more lost replacements then I ever reordered. Maybe I'll search for one in there that I can cut to size.
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Is the stock DL650 bolt long enough that you could put a bushing on to effectively extend the shoulder further? Just a thought.
Probably, but I guess it's needs to be machined to size which won't be cheap or easy. I'll explore the other options first. Thanks.
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I haven't tried but you can probubly match the bolt up with a standard equivalent at a NAPA or hardware store.
With a shoulder and threads at both ends, I doubt very much that there is an off-the-shelf solution.
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Incidentally how are you keeping the left hand guard from striking the fairing before the steering stop engages? At first I extended the mounting slots on the left hand guard 1 inch which had the added benefit of a much closer fit especially where the back of the left hand guard covers the clutch reservoir much better instead of sticking away so much. However if you happen to get the GenMar bare raisers which bring the bars up 1 inch and back 1 and 3/8 inch back, it also takes care of that clearance problem and makes riding the B1250 a remarkably more conformable experience.
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I only noticed the restricted steering lock last evening when turning the bike in my drive. I don't think it will be a problem when riding, just manoeuvering. I don't know the GenMar bar raisers - can you give me a link?
Thanks
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Are the search engines down in Britain? :lol:
Here ya go:
http://www.zianet.com/GenMar/
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Yup those are them and wroth every penny for ride comfort, back, shoulders and hands. The GenMar up and back system really does the trick.
http://shutter11.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/13/002/35/FF/10/32/uCGRCkShnwicW7-iGg0sfHG+tkuSRSSV0300.jpg (http://shutter11.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/13/002/35/FF/10/32/uCGRCkShnwicW7-iGg0sfHG+tkuSRSSV0300.jpg)
http://shutter08.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/20/002/3F/B3/EB/8F/4azXZxRSnKOqb9z7zGkbccWBjSCe7jWk0300.jpg (http://shutter08.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/20/002/3F/B3/EB/8F/4azXZxRSnKOqb9z7zGkbccWBjSCe7jWk0300.jpg)
http://shutter11.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/10/005/7F/6B/6A/81/05T2ZlOhQmVJXgKKdooMzEdNUWZyzglV0300.jpg (http://shutter11.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/10/005/7F/6B/6A/81/05T2ZlOhQmVJXgKKdooMzEdNUWZyzglV0300.jpg)
http://shutter10.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/18/003/18/CF/ED/8F/hd5bPkp8FflpMeIqTs63nOqdSKt2vkUB0300.jpg (http://shutter10.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/18/003/18/CF/ED/8F/hd5bPkp8FflpMeIqTs63nOqdSKt2vkUB0300.jpg)
http://shutter11.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/12/004/64/CA/9C/74/I0F4To98rHzpou6uo0LDIKEUf0iFSeWD0300.jpg (http://shutter11.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/12/004/64/CA/9C/74/I0F4To98rHzpou6uo0LDIKEUf0iFSeWD0300.jpg)
(http://shutter08.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/20/002/3B/7B/00/B7/viVsnuOS7K6zHl5vNIV4FWeiZppXZqky0300.jpg)
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Looks smart gunner though I'd order them direct from the States. I can't see them listed for the 1250 on the UK distributor sites but they list risers for 7/8 inch bars at about £96 which is about $197 compared to $109 direct from GenMar. I'm sure shipping to the UK won't cost $88!
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Another dollar devaluation benefit or loss depending on whether your the vendor or consumer LOL.
Let me know when you are ready to install, I have some installation tips that will make it easy rather then frustrating to line everything up.
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Thanks gunner - I've ordered a set. Let's see what happens.
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HERE WE GO:
I was asked by another member to provide the install steps for the GenMar 1" up and 1&3/8" back bar raisers for my B1250. Unfortunately I didn't take procedural photo's but I remember it well and these steps should help.
(1) Make sure the bike is cold and on its center stand with the front wheel blocked strait forward. Read each step completely before proceeding. You will not need to replace, bleed or disconnect any hyro lines. You will however need to allow the slack to be taken out of the hyro lines by loosening and un-sticking the two front brake line support clamps down by the right front forks, which will allow enough slack for both the bars and allow shock movement. You will also have to remove the left clutch line clamp permanently located on the left side of the frame just under the tank. Make sure available slack in hydro lines is available all the way to the top of the bars.
(2) Remove the top clamp of the stock handlebar and temporarily set the handlebars with everything attached to rest just forward of the handlebar clamp area. Now do a pre-fitting first by inserting the GanMar bar raisers into the stock lower half moon recess, and temp install the longer bolts and top bar clamp provided without the handlebars. This will give you an idea of how it will all fit together before installing the handlebars, making sure there is no binding and new hardware provided fits well.
(3) Straddle the motorcycle (climb on) with the bike on its center stand. Now reach forward and place the handlebars into the GenMar extended recess (toward you) while simultaneously installing the bar top clamp and long Allen bolts provided very loosely. Make sure all hydro lines and electrical harness wires have slack to come back without forcing! You may notice that the handlebars look as if the will not fit into the GenMar recess because it is supposed to be a tight fit (normal). DO NOT worry about handlebar position at this time, only right and left center splines. Tighten down the bars enough to get them barley seated and loose enough to move the bars back toward you or forward, but DO NOT move them yet.
(4) The handlebars are now centered and tight enough to be held in one spot but loose enough to force forward or backward but you should only do this a few times so as not to damage the splines on the handle bars too much. The fewer times the bars are shoved forward and back the better. Now before grabbing the bars to adjust place your hands and arms out forward for a few moments to imagine the ideal position for you. Now yank and places the handlebars at the best location and position for your reach and liking, insuring again the splines are centered. Then tightened the bars down slightly snug and loosened the right and left hand levers to better accommodate your new hand position relative to the the new handlebar position. You may have to use a combination of both handlebar and hand lever adjustments depending on you liking and the ability of the hydro lines and electrical wires to accommodate the desired position.
(5) Once you have set your handlebar and hand lever positions, you need to carefully verified no binding of the hydro lines and electrical wires by turning the handlebars to full right and left stop while ensuring nothing is binding or stretching. Now can you tighten down the handlebar clamp Allen bolts evenly so gap space on each end of the top cap is even front and back. Also you will need to replace the two front brake slack clamps in there new positions, providing both handlebar and shock movement slack. The left side clutch line clamp will not be reused and the clamp itself should be removed to prevent snagging. If any of the hydro lines or wires don't seem to be able to make the stop to stop range of motion, you will have to make a compromise between the handlebar position and the hand lever positions. Mine fit fine.