Bandit Alley
MODEL SPECIFIC => BIG BANDIT BANTER => Topic started by: solman on December 08, 2007, 05:31:51 AM
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Well, my busa shock is on it's way according to the seller. I am looking forward to seeing it and trying it out. I am going to try and get pictures of both shocks together and during the process. My camera is broken, but I may be able to borrow a camera for the process.
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How adjustable is it? Is it a direct bolt-on?
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It has preload, compression, and rebound settings. If any mods, from what I have heard, very minor mods. Here is another unknown fact: Naked B12's(non-fairing) have stiffer suspension than the faired versions. A friend of mine has a naked and has ridden the faired version and noticed the difference between the two suspensions.
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I received my busa shock by Fed Ex this afternoon and just got done installing it. It went well and it was a bit of a hassle at times. Taking the old shock out was quite easy. Just be aware that the bolt are pretty tight and be careful not to strip the nuts. I took pictures, but it probably won't be till tomorrow before I can post them. I will go more into detail after I get the pictures loaded.
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You will be amazed at the difference in handling.
I did this a while back and couldn't believe how much better the bike behaved. Put a set of USD forks on it as well and it handles like a bike should! :grin:
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You will be amazed at the difference in handling.
I did this a while back and couldn't believe how much better the bike behaved. Put a set of USD forks on it as well and it handles like a bike should! :grin:
USD forks is definitely on the agenda for the future.
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Here are the long awaited pics to add busa shocks to a 2nd gen B12
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b23/soloflt/1bandit-hayabusashock.jpg)
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b23/soloflt/2REMOVAL.jpg)
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b23/soloflt/3RTLINKBUSAMOD.jpg)
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b23/soloflt/4AIRBOXMOD.jpg)
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b23/soloflt/5CLEARANCEISSUE.jpg)
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b23/soloflt/6BEFOREAIRBOXINSTALL.jpg)
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b23/soloflt/7BUSASHOCKINSTALLED.jpg)
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b23/soloflt/8PRELOADADJUSTMENT.jpg)
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ok so whats the difference in the 1st gen to the 2nd gen i know the 2nd gen shock is longer and i don't have an airbox anymore and the extra lift is not gonna be a factor when i get on the bike that will go away LOL. busa shock just looks ezer to put in then the gsx-r then i have to find a place to mount the remote. somebody some where has done it. if the shock needs to be ground down or modified some how thats not a problem bro-in-law is a tool and dye maker
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I personally can't tell you what the difference is. The only problem that I could possibly see is where it might hit the knuckle on the bottom. I know that mine is pretty close.
i have to find a place to mount the remote
As far as the resevoir goes, you don't have to worry about mounting it anywhere. As you can see in the first picture, it is mounted to the shock.
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If you use the Busa shock on a 1G, it is highly recommended you use lowering links to at least bring the tail down a little, otherwise the extra length will alter steering geometry so much that tank slappers become a high probablity. The Busa shock installed on a 1G without lowering links will raise the tail ~2.25-2.50" - to maintain decent stability, that needs to be kept to ~1-1.25" lift. With a 1.25" tail lift, the centerstand will still be usable (barely), more than that, and it's useless.
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gsx-r1100 shock has reservoir at least the one i have does. can this "knuckle" be machined? i can't really tell where your feeler gage is in the pic. i measured the busa and gsxr shocks were they mount on the bottom they are both the same width.
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i can't really tell where your feeler gage is in the pic.
It is the space between the knuckle and the center part of the lower shock. In the pic, I am inserting the feeler gauge between the shock and knuckle.
I also took it out for the first ride today and whooped it up some. I must say that I was quite happy with the changes. It felt more compliant and worked like a champ. I started out taking an easy at first and then got more aggressive as the ride progressed. I didn't have any issues at all. It was definitely money well spent
TIP: If you plan to buy one on Ebay, be patient and look for one that looks in good condition for a good price. I got mine for a total cost of $30. Some sellers out there are really trying to stick it to you with price gouging. Just remember, there are lots of them out there, so be patient.
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Nice job with the pics. I've been considering it as a winter mod myself.
Was removing the rear wheel necessary? I hadn't heard that before from others who have done it.
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Looking back, i probably could've done it without removing the wheel. But, it made it a lot easier to do especially if you are by yourself like I was. You have to move the swingarm up and down to maneuver it in. With te extra weight of the wheel, it would make it more difficult.
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I saw good pics of the G1 / busa mod somewhere on maximum-suzuki.com
Here it is:
http://www.maximum-suzuki.com/forums/index.php/topic,28393.0.html
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Wow! That is a lot of work to put a busa shock on a 1st generation.
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(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w248/raichuwood/Bandit/31082007149.jpg)
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(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w248/raichuwood/Bandit/31082007149.jpg)
Is there something about this pic that you want to talk about?
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Hey solman - can the portion of the shock that come in near contact with the rocker knuckle be filed slightly to increase the spacing between the shock and knuckle?
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Sure, there is the casting where it could hit. Just filing off the casting would add a couple of thousandths easily.
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Sure, there is the casting where it could hit. Just filing off the casting would add a couple of thousandths easily.
Cool, thanks!! My shock is on the way!
By the way, did you remove the airbox cover tab on the left or right? Your pics look like the left side, but you say the right side in one of your pics.
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By the way, did you remove the airbox cover tab on the left or right? Your pics look like the left side, but you say the right side in one of your pics.
You are perfectly correct, I fixed the problem. :thanks:
If look at pictures 3 and 5, you can see the casting mark down the middle. I would've dremeled it to clear some more if needed, but I had .004 clearance, so good to go.
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(http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w248/raichuwood/Bandit/31082007149.jpg)
Is there something about this pic that you want to talk about?
Yes.you can try find part of busa in picture or other bikes?
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Not really wanting to pee on a parade but look at the stroke of the Busa shock compared to the stock shock. It has close to 50% longer stroke than the stock shock. Since the lever ratio amplifies this at the rear wheel (still 50% but a LOT of extra travel). Be really certain you know about the tire clearance and geometry issues. Riding to the store, this won't be a problem but riding fast at the track or in serious twistys, crashing can result. For the get one bikes, the shock is just plain too long. I think the busa shock is a little long for the 2nd gen, (forcing excessive sag) to get a decent ride hight. I understand the desire to get a better shock for cheap but please watch out for the details. Sometimes, just because there are a lot of people doing it don't make it right.
Ride safe.
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Not really wanting to pee on a parade but look at the stroke of the Busa shock compared to the stock shock. It has close to 50% longer stroke than the stock shock. Since the lever ratio amplifies this at the rear wheel (still 50% but a LOT of extra travel). Be really certain you know about the tire clearance and geometry issues. Riding to the store, this won't be a problem but riding fast at the track or in serious twistys, crashing can result. For the get one bikes, the shock is just plain too long. I think the busa shock is a little long for the 2nd gen, (forcing excessive sag) to get a decent ride hight. I understand the desire to get a better shock for cheap but please watch out for the details. Sometimes, just because there are a lot of people doing it don't make it right.
Ride safe.
Really hate to down grade your post, but I have been out twice on the 2nd gen B12 with the Busa shock. The first time out I took it easy initially and slowly progressed faster as I felt comfortable. During the whole ride, there was no stability issues at all. In fact it conformed to the bumps and twists so much better. This last Sunday I took it out and went full bore. Needless to say, it performed fantastic. Neither time did I ever have any stability issues. BTW, I also have my forks lowered about 3 mm as well.
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I agree with Solman- I have had the Hayabusa shock for a total of 10K miles on by B6 and B12 - have not had any stability issues. The rear sag is set similar to the front, which equates to a higher back end - but with the B12, lifting the front out of corners, high speed runs and 10+ runs of the Dragon, have not had any problems. Granted the shock quickens the B12 handling. If you set the sag right, then the only downside (IMO) is (potential) instability caused by the raised rear/ quickened geometry - which, to date, has not been an issue (no damper fitted as well). Forks have been left alone in the trees. Of course, having said that, I hope I haven't jinxed myself.
Jay
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I am not running a dampener as well. I do however plan on getting a fork brace.
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The last thing in the world I want to do is dis anyone over their chosen modifications. They do work for them so they must be just fine. On the other hand, if I firmly believe there are safety issues I would be remiss in not expressing my concern. Perhaps some people may think my opinions are motivated by some promotional consideration, I doubt people who know me will think that. At the end of the day, we can all come to our own conclusions.
I ride with a lot of Bandit folks and the rider skills of the owners of these bikes is the most diverse of any other bike type I know. This past spring a really nice guy was out on one of our rides with his Bandit Street fighter that included these mods (lower busa forks and the shock). on a down hill sweeping turn, riding at a moderate but fairly quick pace following several other bikes including stock Bandits he encountered a dip in the road just near the apex and crashed, fortunately he was relatively OK after sliding into the guard rail. it looked like the header system hit the ground, unloading the front of the bike. Another friend who swore by the Busa shock mod on his Bandit was behind me at a track day (I was working as a control rider) and on the first lap with about 15 other bikes in line got on the gas and low sided his bike to his total amazement. He was going the same speed as the rest of us (quite slow) and is a better rider than most. He still blames the tires (Dunlop Qualifiers) but I was on the same lap with the same tire temperatures running Michelin race tires and had TONS of head room traction and lean wise.
Suzuki engineered the Bandit with a specific amount of wheel travel and a ride height and steering geometry to suit. In doing so they consider things like clearances, chain pull and dynamic steering geometry and need these to work in harmony under a wide range of conditions. On race bikes, changing these type of properties on a bike, we proceed with great caution and the racers will tell you, even a small set up change like adding 5mm of rear ride height at the shock can totally change the handling of a bike. Sometimes these changes are good, sometimes not. A change like that may work at one track but not another. To add 20 mm of shock length and close to an additional INCH of travel to the shock? That is a huge, I mean crazy big change. Perhaps the Suzuki engineers are not so smart and this is the greatest improvement you can make. My advice is only that you be careful and try to scientifically consider the changes you are making. I really enjoy meeting and riding with all my Internet forum friends and would much prefer seeing them err on the side of safety.
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On the other hand, if I firmly believe there are safety issues I would be remiss in not expressing my concern.
I understand your concern and appreciate it. I've been following stories for years now about how the busa shock is better. Your comment is the first possible down side to the mod that I have heard ever since I first heard about it. I can see some mods having more of a need for stuff like steering dampeners. Heck, there is a reason why they are putting them on sport bikes nowadays as a stock accessory.
first lap with about 15 other bikes in line got on the gas and low sided his bike to his total amazement. He was going the same speed as the rest of us (quite slow) and is a better rider than most. He still blames the tires (Dunlop Qualifiers) but I was on the same lap with the same tire temperatures running Michelin race tires and had TONS of head room traction and lean wise
First of all you can't say that you had the same tire temperatures, especially on the first lap. Plus you were running different brand tires which will have different warm up times. Also if you were going quite slow, I would find it hard to blame it on the shock mod. I have done 100+ on turns with no issues with Pirelli Strada sport touring tires. It is also highly possible that he could've made a mistake or it was just an unfortunate event.
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Not really wanting to pee on a parade but look at the stroke of the Busa shock compared to the stock shock. It has close to 50% longer stroke than the stock shock.
I know the Busa has a longer stroke, but 50% more seems like a lot. The numbers I've seen (in the chart in our shock transplant thread in the FAQ) show the 2G B12 has a 61mm stroke and the Busa has a 72mm stroke. Do you have different numbers, Rick?
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summary:
1.Remove the bolts from the original shock, those two, no matter which first. The bike was in the center stand. The center stand is no use after this (I had dogbones already shorter 4 cm and this change will also increase the tail to go up another about 3 cm, sorry for the metric dimensions). Remove the side covers (those with the silver endings to get better touch to screws and bolts).
2.Remove the tank by the instructions, 2 incoming hoses and 1 electric wire and 2 outgoing breathing hoses.
3. Remove the Battery cover and battery, for my thumb in the center of the hand I needed more space to uninstall the old shock.
4. I needed also removed my already cutted rear fender known as underskirt or undertail.
5.Place the new shock to it's place.
6.Discover that the air cleaner box doesn't fit with new shock, cut the left side plastic square from the back side of the cleaner. If you're already in stage 3, this won't be a problem for you.
7. I did put some silicone to close the air cleaner hatch tightly.
8. Install all removed parts and don't overwrench and break the bolts from the front of the tank which will keep the seat in the place like I did!
9.Enjoy new rear suspencions, It felt like xcross in bumbs and no wobbling in high speeds either.
Bandit 1200 -96-2000 shock lenght 306mm,stroke 64mm
Bandit 1200 -01-05 320mm(+6/-0mm),61mm
Gsxr 1100 -89-98 312mm,70mm
Gsxr 1000 -01-02 329,5mm(+5,5/-0,5mm),74mm
Gsxr 1000 -03-04 332,5mm(+6/-0mm),74mm
Gsxr 1000 -05 319mm,70mm
Busa 1300 -99-06 330mm,72mm
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Ippo's number look like the same as the ones on the chart in the FAQ...
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So its 10mm or ca. 2/5" increase in ride height?
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The Busa shock is physically 24mm longer than the 2G shock and has 11mm more travel. Installed, it will raise the back of the bike ~1.25".
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The posted dimensional information follows what I see in the Ohlins data. I measure a little differently:
(http://motocd.com/Gallery/albums/Cogent-Dynamics-customer-and-product-photos/busabandit.jpg)
No way the Bandit 1200 (second gen) will go more than 55 mm or so. The Busa looks more like 78mm.
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I wish I would've taken a pic of the distance from the bottom of the tire to the ground before and after. I know the busa shock is a bit longer, but I honestly can't tell the difference by looking at it and normal riding. Aggressive riding, it is just better.
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Not really wanting to pee on a parade but look at the stroke of the Busa shock compared to the stock shock. It has close to 50% longer stroke than the stock shock. Since the lever ratio amplifies this at the rear wheel (still 50% but a LOT of extra travel). Be really certain you know about the tire clearance and geometry issues. Riding to the store, this won't be a problem but riding fast at the track or in serious twistys, crashing can result. For the get one bikes, the shock is just plain too long. I think the busa shock is a little long for the 2nd gen, (forcing excessive sag) to get a decent ride hight. I understand the desire to get a better shock for cheap but please watch out for the details. Sometimes, just because there are a lot of people doing it don't make it right.
Ride safe.
Really hate to down grade your post, but I have been out twice on the 2nd gen B12 with the Busa shock. The first time out I took it easy initially and slowly progressed faster as I felt comfortable. During the whole ride, there was no stability issues at all. In fact it conformed to the bumps and twists so much better. This last Sunday I took it out and went full bore. Needless to say, it performed fantastic. Neither time did I ever have any stability issues. BTW, I also have my forks lowered about 3 mm as well.
Well, I hate to downgrade your post, but NC Rick is a suspension EXPERT! He builds them, fixes them, sets them up for rider weight and type of use, installs them on race bikes. Let's hear your qualifications?
I think you missed the key points of his caution. With a longer stroke, on top of overall longer length, there is a hazard under full compression that the busa shock may cause the tire to bind against the fender or other parts. If this were to happen, the tire will lock up, just as if you stomped on the rear brake. Under full extention, will the chain bind? Will you set chain slack more now, to compensate? Will extra slack cause potential derailment?
He's saying there is quite a bit of engineering that has gone into factory suspension systems, and certainly as much by aftermarket suspension makers to keep chasis geometry similar, while improving spring rate, compression, and rebound settings for the individual and their weight and riding style.
Go buy a junkyard shock because someone else did and it costs $20. I would imagine it works fine for the average rider, not exploiting the capabilities to the extreme, but what about that one time you hit a large pothole, unexpected gully or similar that does put the shock at full compression or extention?
I hope you don't have an accident requiring litigation. A smart investigator will certainly make issue with having the wrong shock on your bike.
This thread makes me chuckle about the other safety-nanny posts, but with this one and the thread about "agressive riding when stressed" makes me wonder.
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Good points - I'll be honest, I did not consider the risk of the rear wheel locking on full compression, due to hitting the fender - I will check what hits what if I can ratchet down the rear - it's probably a low risk with my weight, but worth looking into. My comments on the shock being safe were focused on the behavior of the bike when the shock is somewhere between fully extended and fully compressed. I can't think of a risk at full extension that would not be similiar to a risk of the stock shock at full extension, other than the chain would be at it's most slack. You do need to add some slack to the manual spec - about 5mm, to account for the fact that the swingarm is further out of line with the tightest chain point. So...thanks for the post...
Ride safe and Happy Holidays All -
Jay
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Well, I hate to downgrade your post, but NC Rick is a suspension EXPERT! He builds them, fixes them, sets them up for rider weight and type of use, installs them on race bikes. Let's hear your qualifications?
I agree that I am no expert and don't feel that you had to blow me out of the water with your comment. Until now, I didn't know what his qualifcations were until recently. So jumping on me so quickly seems pretty unfair.
there is a hazard under full compression that the busa shock may cause the tire to bind against the fender or other parts.
If the busa shock is longer, wouldn't there be more of a risk of hitting the fender with a stock Bandit shock?
Under full extention, will the chain bind? Will you set chain slack more now, to compensate? Will extra slack cause potential derailment?
Those are possible good points. I have never heard of any such thing before, but I'll take your word for it as a possible situation. I personally would love to spend $500+ for a rear shock, but I personally can't afford it. As long as people have been doing the busa mod, has anyone ever heard of anyone having handling issues with the shock?
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Hey Solman - thinking about your question, I need to take a look, but I think you can subtract the stroke from the height, to get the compressed height:
Bandit 1200 -01-05 320mm(+6/-0mm),61mm
Busa 1300 -99-06 330mm,72mm
Doing so, the compressed height of both shocks is within 1 MM of each other - if this holds true, the likelihood of the tire on a Hayabusa equipped Gen II hitting the fender is no more than the likelihood of the stock shock causing this.
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Well, I hate to downgrade your post, but NC Rick is a suspension EXPERT! He builds them, fixes them, sets them up for rider weight and type of use, installs them on race bikes. Let's hear your qualifications?
I agree that I am no expert and don't feel that you had to blow me out of the water with your comment. Until now, I didn't know what his qualifcations were until recently. So jumping on me so quickly seems pretty unfair.there is a hazard under full compression that the busa shock may cause the tire to bind against the fender or other parts.
If the busa shock is longer, wouldn't there be more of a risk of hitting the fender with a stock Bandit shock?
Under full extention, will the chain bind? Will you set chain slack more now, to compensate? Will extra slack cause potential derailment?
Those are possible good points. I have never heard of any such thing before, but I'll take your word for it as a possible situation. I personally would love to spend $500+ for a rear shock, but I personally can't afford it. As long as people have been doing the busa mod, has anyone ever heard of anyone having handling issues with the shock?
Hey sorry, I was simply using a jump similar to what you gave NC Rick.
It would depend on the numbers. Some sources say certain numbers and others have different. You'd have to have both shocks side by side and measure. The only source I've seen that has done that was NC Rick, and his conclusion comes out different. Speaking of which, all this Busa shock swapping, I've never seen anyone with talk about spring rates. Pictures I've seen, it appeared that the Busa has about the same spring diameter and in one pic it really looked like the busa had one MORE coil (although it is hard to count if the coils aren't turned to the same orientation). If so tho, that would make a busa shock softer. Which is possible because with linkage, on the busa a softer spring can effectively be stiffer.
I'm no suspension expert either. I think swapping shocks from one bike to another may be a big mistake if all the geometry isn't worked out in advance.
I suspect a better choice may be the 1250 shock if you want to swap. It's got a longer swingarm and is a slightly heavier bike. Both would require a bit of stiffening of the shock to replicate the 1200's ride.
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Hey sorry, I was simply using a jump similar to what you gave NC Rick.
No problem, I just made my comment from my personal experience while riding with the busa shock. I am not the fastest in my group, but I do well and I am somewhat of an aggressive rider. Enough said, let's move on. :motorsmile:
The 1250 might be a better choice, but given that it is new to the market, it would be pretty difficult to find. Regardless, I am currently happy with my choice. I've been hearing about how great the busa shock is for years and haven't heard of a complaint yet. Like I said, I know their are better options out there, but cost comes into play as well. I do know how different wheels and suspension from different bikes can pan out. I have a 82 CB900F which I have done multiple mods to those areas looking for improvements. Some I have liked and kept, others didn't have such good results and went different routes.
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Thanks guys. I am pretty much with the program with this stuff. I am making a meager living doing this suspension stuff and have always enjoyed do-it yourself projects as well as saving money, I have never professed to know that much, I am always learning, that is what keeps me passionate about this stuff. I think it is the wrong approach to just change something on a bike because you can or because others have done it. I am totally into making a change like that with some research and investigation. Asking some questions like "what is the correct spring rate for the Bandit with a given rider weight? What is the spring rate of a Busa (or other shock). What about travel, bottoming and top out positions, swing arm angles and other geometry points? The Busa shock has a decent spring rate for a 180 lb guy (if my memory serves) on the Bandit G-2 but is way off for the G-1. How about the travel? Well I would agree, if we accept that bringing the rear up by an inch or more is good (I am not giving one way or another to that point) and the travel is increased by that much things should be OK but in the case of the Busa shock I think you will find that your getting closer to double that additional travel. I would dismount the spring and mount the shock to test the travel at its extents.
Handling wise, I think there is some evidence to support possible problems. Whether or not someone wants to go along with that is strictly optional. It's natural to want to dismiss that if your own experience is contrary and those folks may well be right. A much higher proportion of riders with more experience with motorcycles that have good suspension are riding around with Fox, Penske, Ohlins and yes even Cogent shocks on their Bandits. A lot of the Bandits see a good deal of miles pile on them and the stock sub-par shock is really dead by the time it gets changed so most anything will be a big improvement. I have ridden a Gen-2 Bandit with the "Busa shock mod" installed and on the mild street ride I had, it was fine (road well) with the exception of being a little twitchy on corner exits (could well have been the tires) and some tendency for the rear end to get a bit floaty on hard braking.
I have not been trying to take any kind of adversarial position on this. If I can get a few people to be cognizant of some factors involved with such a change, I am very happy.
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I've been hearing about how great the busa shock is for years and haven't heard of a complaint yet.
Well said that man.
In theory absolutely anything is possible but this mod has been used in reality for many years and has worked well.
I have made the change myself and saw instant results for the better. The rear of the bike is far more stable and if anything it removed the twitchiness that occurred on hard acceleration out of corners and spirited braking (confirmed on track days).
I am 200 odd lbs and never has the bike bottomed out or performed in any adverse way due to the changes.
I have also put an '02 GSX-R front end on and I am sure it has affected geometries and the like but by actually riding the hell out of it I have experienced no drawbacks only massive improvements in handling. :grin:
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That is why I made the swap. I am not one to jump on the band wagon so quickly with mods. This is a subject that I have been following for years and have heard many testimonials. Any further advice would be appreciated. I would actually like to learn how to adjust the compression and dampening. I know what they do, but don't know what to look for when adjusting. I tried using the different settings with the Bandit shock, but never noticed any real difference. Go figure...
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I made the swap tonight. It took 1.25 hrs to remove the OEM shock and bolt up the 'busa one. It was quite easy, thanks everyone -- and especially solman -- your pics and PMs were particularly helpful. :thanks: :beers:
I then took the bike out for a short jaunt on the superslab and through town. I still can't believe it!! Without doubt, the best bang-for-the-buck mod! :motorsmile: The bike feels more planted and the rear end feels stiffer, yet more plush. :motorsmile: :thanks:
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Glad I could be of service. Sounds like another testimonial to further the benefit of doing the busa shock mod. :thumb: To further help out, one of the guys on another forum posted this link. I haven't changed my settings yet, but I may try this out.
http://www.bikepics.com/pictures/621480/
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Glad I could be of service. Sounds like another testimonial to further that benefit of doing the busa shock mod. :thumb: To further help out, one of the guys on another forum posted this link. I haven't changed my settings yet, but I may try this out.
http://www.bikepics.com/pictures/621480/
Yup, that's the link I used for my initial settings. :beers:
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You know guys I did the same Mod a while back and all I can say is it's still the best bang for the buck!! I've been on mine for some time and still have no issues! :clap:
http://forums.banditalley.net/index.php?topic=7481.0
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You know guys I did the same Mod a while back and all I can say is it's still the best bang for the buck!! I've been on mine for some time and still have no issues! :clap:
http://forums.banditalley.net/index.php?topic=7481.0
That's good to know, Mongo. Thanks!!
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Well, I guess after reading all 4 pages I can put my 2 cents in.
I did the swap last year and to be honest I didn't really notice much of a difference, probably because I save most of my aggressive riding for the track. However my wife made a comment after we got back from a ride that gives credence to how good the swap is.
When leaving our house to go for a ride we go across a set of RR tracks, at the end of the ride my wife said that her rear usually comes up a few inches off the seat. However, after I did the swap she said that her rear stayed planted and that her overall impression was that the back end didn't bounce around as much as before.
So, if wifey's happy, then I'm happy.
Now I've just got to make the rear seat more comfortable and move her footpegs forward, she complains that they're too far back and her legs are uncomfortable at the angle they are bent at.
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My $.02
Did the 'Busa rear shock at the same time as some Racetech springs - couldn't be happier with the bike now. The suspension was my only gripe with the Bandit [coming from a VFR], and now it's 100% solved. Absorbs bumps better, feels more planted and predictable through turns, and doesn't buck like a bronco over washboard or city streets [like it used to]. The stock suspension on these is garbage - it'll be the best ~$200 you'll spend on this bike!
2001 nekkid bandit
I'm 235lbs and usually ride with some luggage and/or passenger
Heaviest Racetech fork springs available and used 'busa shock off eBay.