Bandit Alley
MODEL SPECIFIC => BIG BANDIT BANTER => Topic started by: Bandit1250 on February 24, 2008, 03:25:16 AM
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You're the new Designer/Engineer for Suzuki and you're working on the 2009 Bandit........
What 3 improvements/changes would you make?
Here's mine....
1. More HP
2. Black engine instead of Silver.
3. Temp/Oil PSI Guage/Readout
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Not to thread divert here too much, but...
Dale Walker has gotten the new 1250 up to 130hp (vs. 100 stock) with just his new full exhaust system and a TFI box.
Holeshot Dyno Chart (http://www.holeshot.com/bandit_post/1250dyno03.jpg)
That's an almost unheard of increase from just those two mods.
So it would appear that from a horsepower standpoint, Suzuki just corked the engine purposely to meet the 100hp max euro requirements. I would imagine it's going to stay that way in stock form for the duration of its production life.
/end diversion
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1. Suspension - Fully adjustable for a change
2. Frankenbolts - Why they left off the other half of our mounting/tie-down points is beyond me
2 Did I mention suspension???
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Swap out the waterjacket engine with an FI 1246CC SACS :lol:
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Even more size, as they have that GSX1400 engine elsewhere.
1400cc SACS FI, and 6 speed.
A naked version over here.
A megaphone style muffler, or 2 if need be.
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A better windscreen
belt drive
some more hard mount spots for back rests , luggage racks , bungie hooks etc.
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gear indicator
more complete gauges
more suspension adjustments and remote preload at least
oh wait I'm over the 3 limit ! :duh:
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A better windscreen
belt drive
some more hard mount spots for back rests , luggage racks , bungie hooks etc.
You'd lose some power with belt drive...............
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You'd lose some power with belt drive...............
Can you back that up?
From what I've read on this subject, typical m/c belt drives are at least as efficeint as roller chains, in fact, most sources say synchronous (toothed) belt drives are more efficeint (95-99%) than roller chain (80-94% - with O-ring chains at the lower end of the spectrum). Silent & Hy-Vo chain is rated in the same efficeincy zone as toothed belts, but I haven't seen any motorcycles using this kind of chain for final drive. Of course, these ratings assume the system is properly maintained and strong enough for the application.
There are other reasons for chosing chain over belt, but I don't think efficeincy is one of them. :grin:
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Shaft for gsf 1250 and more power.
Better saddle.
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You'd lose some power with belt drive...............
Can you back that up?
From what I've read on this subject, typical m/c belt drives are at least as efficeint as roller chains, in fact, most sources say synchronous (toothed) belt drives are more efficeint (95-99%) than roller chain (80-94% - with O-ring chains at the lower end of the spectrum). Silent & Hy-Vo chain is rated in the same efficeincy zone as toothed belts, but I haven't seen any motorcycles using this kind of chain for final drive. Of course, these ratings assume the system is properly maintained and strong enough for the application.
There are other reasons for chosing chain over belt, but I don't think efficeincy is one of them. :grin:
Can I back that up? Not off hand but EVERY article I've ever read on the 3 types of drive (Shaft, Chain and Belt) said Chain puts the most power to the street.
I also think there's a reason why SUZUKI, KAWASAKI, HONDA and YAMAHA all use chain drive on their racing machines......not a Belt drive in ANY of them.
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I also think there's a reason why SUZUKI, KAWASAKI, HONDA and YAMAHA all use chain drive on their racing machines......not a Belt drive in ANY of them.
There ARE reasons, but effeceincy isn't it. One is a belt strong enough to put up with the power of a race bike that isn't so wide it effects cornering clearance or engine bay issues. Another is gearing changes are faster & easier with a chain since you can put in on with a master link instead of having to pull the swingarm.
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I also think there's a reason why SUZUKI, KAWASAKI, HONDA and YAMAHA all use chain drive on their racing machines......not a Belt drive in ANY of them.
There ARE reasons, but effeceincy isn't it. One is a belt strong enough to put up with the power of a race bike that isn't so wide it effects cornering clearance or engine bay issues. Another is gearing changes are faster & easier with a chain since you can put in on with a master link instead of having to pull the swingarm.
I agree with Red.... what it comes down to is the revolutions of the rear wheel relative to the RPM's of the engine, right? Unless someone knows of a 'slippage' issue with belts... they should transfer the same amount of power to the rear wheel that a chain does.
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I like this question. :grin:
Ok.
1. Lose a gear - 6 is too many, lose 5th. Could probably lose 3rd as well to be honest.
2. Bigger fuel tank
3. I think the rest I can change easy enough (screen, horsies, exhaust) ok, got it - more underseat storage
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1. Lose a gear - 6 is too many, lose 5th. Could probably lose 3rd as well to be honest.
do more of you feel this way? I'm always wishing the 1200 had an extra gear, it could certainly be useful when hanging with the big boys on the highway.
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1. Lose a gear - 6 is too many, lose 5th. Could probably lose 3rd as well to be honest.
do more of you feel this way? I'm always wishing the 1200 had an extra gear, it could certainly be useful when hanging with the big boys on the highway.
No.
I like the 6th gear, just wish the 1250 had a gear indicator......I'll probably buy that DATATROL electronic one after awhile.
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I've never seen a need for a 6th gear on the 1200, the engine does not feel at all strained or buzzy at highway speeds. When I test rode the 1250 the bike felt completely flat in sixth anywhere around 'legal' highway speeds. Probably good for mileage but I'm thinking a downshift would be in order to get by anything quickly. Also with the 1200 I would average about 58MPG at slightly over legal speeds. YMMV
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the problem isn't the engine feeling buzzy, in fact to be honest there is no 'problem'. One of my friends has a turbo busa, and of course even with the speedo buried there is no way to remotely keep up. Also of course I have a completely unfaired bike so anything over highway speeds ends up being a bit of a workout, which i like because it tends to keep me a little saner, but if I had an extra gear the engine could hum along at it's more prefered rpm at these speeds.
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I've never seen a need for a 6th gear on the 1200, the engine does not feel at all strained or buzzy at highway speeds. When I test rode the 1250 the bike felt completely flat in sixth anywhere around 'legal' highway speeds. Probably good for mileage but I'm thinking a downshift would be in order to get by anything quickly. Also with the 1200 I would average about 58MPG at slightly over legal speeds. YMMV
"Legal freeway speeds"??
If I rode anywhere CLOSE to legal speeds out here in So Cal I'd get run over.
And to help prevent getting "run over" I always ride slightly ahead of the flow of traffic, I believe tha'ts the safest way to ride the freeways.
So far with my 1250 at 70 or more it has PLENTY of passing power in 6th gear.....but not all bikes are like that.
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1. Standard equip adjustable handlebar risers
2. Standard equip Zero Gravity touring wind screen
3. dash control remapping and aperture adjustable exhaust and airbox flow controls
Things that were needed.
6 gears make the B1250 a ready highway smooth cruiser with much better mileage with but with the low end high torque to handle 6 gear roll-ons, a must.
Handling and smoothness, handling and smoothness, handling and smoothness....
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1/ Taller handle bars with more pull back so I can sit more upright with my spine more vertical. As stock, few hours ride is fine. As a long distance tourer, days in days out of full day riding, I'll need the vertical spine seating position.
2/ Flatter seat. The stock seat have a slant toward the front. I slide forward and the pants are pulling on my boys. I'll have to remove the seat cover to trim some butt cheek indents onto the seat. A slightly lower seat in the back will get rid of the forward slant and give better weight distribution for that LONG ride. Every butt is different. Other than the slant, the seat is OK for me.
3/ Taller 6th gear or have the gears spread out more. Crossing the country at 85mph, I wish for a lower RPM. Decrease the rear sprocket by 3 teeth will do it. It will also correct the overly optimistic speedometer.
4/ My bro-in-law has a CHP BMW. It has crash bars front back left and right. Dropping the bike will not damage any part of the bike. Wish I had that.
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quote; Flatter seat. The stock seat have a slant toward the front. I slide forward and the pants are pulling on my boys. I'll have to remove the seat cover to trim some butt cheek indents onto the seat. A slightly lower seat in the back will get rid of the forward slant and give better weight distribution for that LONG ride. Every butt is different. Other than the slant, the seat is OK for me.
3/ Taller 6th gear or have the gears spread out more. Crossing the country at 85mph, I wish for a lower RPM. Decrease the rear sprocket by 3 teeth will do it. It will also correct the overly optimistic speedometer. unquote
I agree about the gear ratios being just being "off " , I would like the bottom five raised-lowered for better accelleration and use the 6th as a true overdrive
Have you tried raising just the front of the seat? I did and it made a world of difference , Read thru the excellent how-to located in the FAQ forum but just swap the spacers around on the front of the seat , takes about 20 minutes
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I agree about the gear ratios being just being "off " , I would like the bottom five raised-lowered for better accelleration and use the 6th as a true overdrive
Have you tried raising just the front of the seat? I did and it made a world of difference , Read thru the excellent how-to located in the FAQ forum but just swap the spacers around on the front of the seat , takes about 20 minutes
I like LD riding. So a very tall 6th would be very good. If I am to do a lot of peg scratching mountain curve roads, then keep the 1st where it is and raise the 2nd to 6th taller and closer in ratio to get a close ratio gear box at a range that are useful. That means a big jump between 1st and 2nd and a close 3rd 4th 5th& 6th with 6th in over drive to lower the crusing rpm. The big gap between 1st and 2nd would not bother me unless I am also into drag racing.
I tried putting the front part of the seat in the high position while keeping the back in the low position. Riding is definitely good and the seat is flat like I want it to be. Problem ... Now I have to tip toe around the parking lot when I walk the bike. ALways an unpredictable side effect. Now, If I get thicker sole shoes ... then I'll have to readjust the foot levers ... see? side effects! :duh:
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1) Shaft or belt drive (much easier to maintain/clean)
2) Classier instruments (what is there is fairly basic and cheap looking)
3) Integrated luggage fittings (so side cases fit nice and snug without needing ugly ironwork to hold it all together). The cases themselves could be options as not everybody wants them.
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Easier access to the plugs. I just pulled and regapped mine, and Jesus, what a PITA ! :duh:
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Easier access to the plugs. I just pulled and regapped mine, and Jesus, what a PITA ! :duh:
Even with the tank off it was a PITA??
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Sorry this is a little off topic but - anyone ridden both the b1250 and the Yami FZ1? similar styles would consider either for next bike, but I love the one I got. FZ1 gets good reviews..
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1. A better seat for the longer hauls. The stock seat suks and is brick hard.
2. No cat on the exhaust.
3. A few more ponies.
Now when it comes to my list.....
1. Have the seat re-done by Spencer.
2. Full exhaust from Holeshot. No more cat.
3. Along with the exhaust....TFI, o2 bypass, pair removal should get 30 extra ponies.
So, a bit of money makes a great bike even better to me. The things I do not like on this bike can easily be fixed. Life is great! :motorsmile:
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They need to build a "UJM" version of the bike, something like this... (see link)
That would make it very popular for us older guys who are tired of the bent over rider positions and are tired of adjusting chains, but still want power and handling.
Edits are from picture posting difficulties - need help, what are the rules???
<img src="http://vxjqhq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pDMDa8BmU-bPxZ4AR_Eq2cAFuI-9BePbdele-qdpJpHYkM0ul2kxJOr0UFDnQU3jfz3YSfdsFWkg"></img>
Well, I think this link works, but I don't seem to be able to insert the picture... probably as it isn't a jpg... Windows live one is apparently "hosting unfriendly" amongst other unfriendly acts.
The Lastest addition "http://vxjqhq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pDMDa8BmU-bPRJB57I3NXLip3B5G_jbYXGoxdOIGvV3UEULsEu-jtw6M4oz4TSGxDcvMvg6TFeDQ"
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They need to build a "UJM" version of the bike, something like this...
(http://<img src="http://vxjqhq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pDMDa8BmU-bPxZ4AR_Eq2cAFuI-9BePbdele-qdpJpHYkM0ul2kxJOr0UFDnQU3jfz3YSfdsFWkg"></img>)
That would make it very popular for us older guys who are tired of bent over rider positions and are tired of adjusting chains, but still want power and handling.
Edits are from picture posting difficulties - need help, what are the rules???
Check out details in the Site Rules/FAQ forum. Basically, the pic has to be hosted somewhere that is share-friendly. Then, paste the URL of the pic (should end in .jpg or similar - not the page it's on) between the image tags.