Stebel Horn - UPDATE

[skyrider]

I ordered a Stebel about 5 days ago.  Could have used it today.  First, guy pulls from off ramp (stop sign) left into the oncoming traffic lane right in front of me.  I was going the speed limit (55) and am very glad I had the ABS.  Didn't have time to give the one-finger salute.  Not two miles later, soccer mom in mini van pulls from side street into my lane.  No time to react so I  pass her on the right shoulder...which made me nervous.

Any way, guess what's waiting in the mail box...yes, the Strebel horn.  Using the search feature, I've read where other's have installed it on early versions of the Bandit and that the Bandit has a negative switched horn switch.  Does this also apply to the 1250?  Anyone installed one of these that can send/post the process?  The single sheet of paper that came with the horn is useless to me...it's not color-coded and will not actually do it for me!  When it comes to electrical stuff, it's all PFM to me.

Gracias amigos,

Sky

Edit: http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/hornrelay.html  Found this link.  The kit I bought has this relay.  Sounds easy enough as long as I know whether the 1250 horn switch is hot or negative...right?!

[KenB]

I would be very interested in this information as well. I'm not a believer in loud pipes saving lives, but this bike is SO quiet, I'm certain it reduces our exposure.

[txbanditrydr]

A multimeter set to measure DC volts will answer that question pretty quick.  One lead to one side of the horn connector (removed from the stock horn) and over to ground will give you current - the meter will show direction of current flow.  If there's no voltage then you've tapped into the switched wire (which is what you want to use to energize the relay anyways) - going across this lead to ground AND pressing the horn button should give you current.... you might need three hands.

From there just follow the wiring schematic on the Stebel box - it's really quite good.

[skyrider]

I’ve installed the Stebel horn on my 1250.  I highly recommend this horn if you’re not happy with the stocker.  Thanks to txbanditrydr for providing this link: http://www.twtex.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18727&highlight=stebel   which provided the idea for the installation point.  The bracket you see in the picture is very similar to what I had made.  I’m sure there are a hundred ways to make a bracket.  I started with a piece of thin steel to get the bends correct and then my buddy made the final part out of stainless steel.

I ordered my horn from ridesafer.com.  For $42.95, you get the horn, relay, and more wiring crap than you could possible use to install it.  The wiring diagram works well enough.  Following are some tips that may help you if you go this route.  I have no pictures that would be any different than what GregH posted.

1.  The orange wire with green stripe (from old horn) goes to blade #86 on the relay.
2.  The black wire with blue stripe (from old horn) goes to blade #85 on the relay.
3.  The other two wires are self explanatory from the diagram.
4.  As stated in GregH’s thread (maybe it was another thread)…the relay bolts up nicely to the attachment point where the old horn was.  Again, a thousand ways to skin that kat (I know, I know…it’s spelled with two T’s).
5.  If you choose to use shrink wrap around the crimp connections, slide the piece of shrink-wrap over the wire PRIOR to crimping…and use the smallest diameter wrap that will fit over the connection.
6.  I forgot about rule #5 a few times…therefore I used some liquid tape (Wal Mart) over certain connections.
7.  Not sure it applies to the Bandit, like it does to the V Strom, but run the negative wire from the horn back to the battery ground.  Again, not sure it applies to the Bandit, but a frame that has both aluminum and steel should not be used as a ground due to electrolysis.  Ridesafer.com sent more than enough wire to do this.
8.  GregH lifted his entire tank onto blocks (from the pics).  I only lifted the aft end and had enough room, but it was tight; lifting the front was smart on his part.  Two wires run from the horn area, under the tank, to the battery area.  I wrapped them in spiral wrap.
9.  I used aircraft anti-chaffing tape a few places to keep dissimilar metals from contacting…use your judgment here.

That’s about it, hope it helps.

Sky

PS.  Oh yeah, it’s frickin loud!

[KenB]

Thanks for the follow-up Sky!

[brass]

Is there any lag between the time you hit the horn button and when it sounds? I'm asking because one I installed many years ago (not a Stebel) would delay a second or two before sounding. I was so annoyed by it that it got tossed in the trash and never looked at air horns again.

[skyrider]

Is there any lag between the time you hit the horn button and when it sounds?

Not at all.  And, wouldn't you know it, I install an air horn and now can't seem to differentiate between a turn signal switch and a horn switch.  You'll recognize me by the guy who always signals with the horn prior to making a lane change.     Maybe I should incorporate a delay?!

[skyrider]

Here's a pic of the bracket my buddy made.  It's similar to the one from the above linked thread.  This is how it looks if you were looking at it installed on the left side, the angle tilts towards the rear.  Not shown in this pic, he added a triangle piece that wrapped on the bottom and the face of the bracket to add some rigidity.

[KenB]

By any chance, do you still have the template for that bracket skyrider?

[skyrider]

By any chance, do you still have the template for that bracket skyrider?

Yes.  The base is approx. 7/8" and the arm is approx. 2 1/2".  The angle is 10-12 degrees.

[KenB]

thanks!