Author Topic: Race Tech Springs and Busa Shock Installation (Read 15467 times)

Mongo · « **Reply #15 on:** February 13, 2007, 08:54:22 PM »

Quote from: "reaper"

hey Mongo sounds like you have it sorted nice job i have a couple of question though if you dont mind.
1-which racetech springs did you use
2-what are your final susspension settings
3-i hope this insnt a rude question but what is your weight
4-i nearly forgot to ask what weight fork oil

thanks

1-FRSP S373210
2-Fronts the preload was taken down to 0 and turned back up 4 1/2 turns. On the rear shock the spring length was set at 183 mm on the bench prior to installation with the rebound set at 13 clicks and the compression at 9 clicks.
3-I'm a fat boy at 280 lbs!
4- #10 Fork Oil.

reaper · « **Reply #16 on:** February 13, 2007, 09:06:32 PM »

Mongo

Mongo · « **Reply #17 on:** February 13, 2007, 09:29:09 PM »

I picked up a stock swing arm on Flea Bay so the next step is to take it over to Trac Dynamics and have it extended 4"!

I also picked up a set of GSXR cams I need to toss in for a little more grunt!

kevinfromrex · « **Reply #18 on:** February 21, 2007, 09:45:40 AM »

dont know how many big boys are th inking of a B6 2nd gen upgrade but I thought I would throw in my numbers.

2nd gen B12 shock installed with 5 clicks preload, #3 position on dampening,
racetech 1.0 (the heaviest) springs installed with spacer cut 1 inch about fork tops, 15 wt high quality oil installed.

265 pound rider!!!! (lift too many weights)

CWO4GUNNER · « **Reply #19 on:** February 21, 2007, 11:41:04 AM »

When you say you cut the spacer, as I am not familiar with the these B12 fork components, did you cut down an original spacer or make one from metal stock and if so what did you use? Also what year Busa shock did you use and does it matter?

Quote from: "Mongo"

A few Picks to help explain Race Tech front spring installation and rear Busa shock.

I ended up cutting a 4 3/8" spacer on the front springs!

Rear shocks Side By Side

Installed with air box mods, much easier to see the missing ear with the stage 2 air box.
.

kevinfromrex · « **Reply #20 on:** February 21, 2007, 02:30:02 PM »

my 2G B6 race techs came with an aluminum spacer that you have to cut, but many people are using PVC tubing. Either is fine, just cut straight. Once the springs are in they do not reach the top of the fork tube, a spacer is put in place which can add preload. In my opinion the most common spacer is 3/8 inch over the top of the fork tube, I went a inch as I am so heavy.

CWO4GUNNER · « **Reply #21 on:** February 21, 2007, 04:33:53 PM »

Great that explains it. I just need to save this post now as future project. Thanks

Quote from: "kevinfromrex"

my 2G B6 race techs came with an aluminum spacer that you have to cut, but many people are using PVC tubing. Either is fine, just cut straight. Once the springs are in they do not reach the top of the fork tube, a spacer is put in place which can add preload. In my opinion the most common spacer is 3/8 inch over the top of the fork tube, I went a inch as I am so heavy.

mademiriam · « **Reply #22 on:** April 02, 2007, 02:54:53 PM »

Got my busa shock in for the B12... anyone around 150lbs have any ideas what you set it to? Want to get it at least a little dialed in before i put it on.
Thanks

BANDIT#999 · « **Reply #23 on:** April 04, 2007, 12:50:24 AM »

Hey guys, just put the Busa shock in, went pretty easy until I tried my home made lowering bones. The friggin wheel almost disappeard up into the tail section. So I took it all apart to see if I had done something wrong, looked at the install pictures and put it all back together again. Sure enough the back tire was like 4 inches off the ground. Soooooo, I put the original Bandit bones in and for some reason it was slightly lower than stock??????
I can sit fully flat footed on the bike, which is what I was after anyways.
Just so you know, I set the spring at 183mm, just like I read in here some where, wound in my clicks and backed them out half way. Now all I've got to do is adjust the back wheel so that the chain isn't so sloppy, put on my GIVI luggage and I'll be set. Well except for the bars, there's a bike show next weekend and I'm going o take my stock bars so I can compare them to something a bit taller and a bit further back.
What I'm really looking forward to is my trip at the end of next month...

mademiriam · « **Reply #24 on:** April 15, 2007, 12:06:40 AM »

just wanted to say thanks for posting those pics, did my shock install, and spring install today, was nice to have them to look at for reassurance.

Dave 02 1200 · « **Reply #25 on:** April 15, 2007, 12:27:40 PM »

Please remember that the longer shock length changes the way you must adjust your chain so it will not be too tight when the shock compresses.

If you follow the procedure recommended in the book, it will be too tight when compressed to the point where the swingarm is level and the chain is at its tightest point.

I found that it just takes a minute to pull the lower dog bone bolt so the swing arm moves freely. Then I use a wooden block to raise the rear wheel so the swing arm is level with the countershaft sprocket.

When I adjust the chain, I set it snug but not tight. That way, when I reinsert the dogbone bolt and set the bike on its sidestand there is a little more slack in the chain than was needed with the stock length shock.

The result is that my chain and sprockets, not to mention my countershaft bearings, are not damaged by an overtight condition that would otherwise happen if I used the "regular" factory chain adjustment method/specs.

This takes longer to describe than it takes to do it - but it is important and the change in swingarm geometry must be taken into account if you want to use a longer-than-stock shock without serious problems.

Hope this helps. Good luck.

BANDIT#999 · « **Reply #26 on:** April 15, 2007, 01:34:25 PM »

Good point Dave.
One of the tips I picked up in racing was to leave a little more play in the chain due to the extreme suspension compressions during a race.
Some guys just can't understand why their chain snaps half way through a race, well one reason is they are setting it up as if on the street.
Don't forget that two up riding with luggage etc will compress the suspension even more, so allow for that too.

Well, I went to the show but no luck with the bars. I'll have to check out the local bike salvage places.

Mongo · « **Reply #27 on:** April 20, 2007, 04:29:47 PM »

Thanks Dave I'll have to try this out especially since I just did the 520 conversion on my bike and I really don't want to FU a new chain and sprocket.

Fortunatly I have not done any damage using the method in the book but it's still good to know!!