Bandit Alley
MODEL SPECIFIC => BIG BANDIT BANTER => Topic started by: Mongo on November 13, 2006, 09:09:57 PM
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A few Picks to help explain Race Tech front spring installation and rear Busa shock.
I ended up cutting a 4 3/8" spacer on the front springs!
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j41/02-mongo/CIMG3246.jpg)
Rear shocks Side By Side
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j41/02-mongo/CIMG3234.jpg)
Installed with air box mods, much easier to see the missing ear with the stage 2 air box.
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(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j41/02-mongo/CIMG3241.jpg)
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And you bike handled so well ......
You could'nt keep up with your own bike :duh:
Bob
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Give a ride report ..... I think for the $$ spent, you cannot
get a better suspention mod !
Triple digets please. :shock:
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And you bike handled so well ......
You could'nt keep up with your own bike :duh:
Bob
What Bob is getting at is we swapped bikes so I could get his input on the settings! So I jumped on his Turbo bike and he still smoked my ass in the canyon (Bob has a little more riding experience than myself). He managed to push it through a few long sweepers with the speedo in the triple didget range so I don’t think my initial settings were not that far off.
I set the Busa shock spring length at 183 mm on the bench prior to installation with the rebound at 11 clicks and the compression at 8 clicks based on the information from previous threads.
And as shown in the pictures I used a 4 3/8" spacer on the front springs. The preload was taken down to 0 and turned back up six turns.
After my initial road test I ended up turning the rebound out two clicks and the compression 1 click on the rear shock. And after Bob's run on the bike in the canyon I ended up turning the preload back in 1 1/2 turns.
I'll try to get back up the canyon this weekend and get some saddle time to get the final setting dialed in but she feels really close.
I picked up the front springs from WEINERDOGBONE for $75 ($109 retail + shipping) and found a brand new Busa shock on Flea Bay for another $75 with shipping.
I'll keep you informed of my results!
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By the way this Turbo Bob's bike note the cool suspension on this thing so when he told my bike handled well I figured it has to be a hell of an improvement (he’s ridden my bike before)!
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b22/02-trex/ZXRbuild10-26036.jpg)
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I wanna ride it again ........."mucho Fun"
Race ya to Starbucks !! :motorsmile:
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Just got back from a canyon run and the settings seem to be dead nuts on!
I have to say dollar for dollar you cannot beat this combination! I would highly recommend it to anyone on a tight budget!
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b393/mongo995/thCash.gif)
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No responses Mongo ........
I guess these guys are happy with mushy suspention -
course, dont need anything to fancey for a freeway !
Bob
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Keep us posted, mongo. Ive GOT to do something to my suspension. 100mph + on WV backroads=scary I plan on doing racetech springs and a busa shock /w lowering links to get back to stock height. The biggest debate for me is whether or not to do springs alone or put in the gold valves too. Im sure as hell not tearing it apart twice.
So for the sake of those of us researching....more reporting is appreciated. :beers:
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Not sure how I missed this thread, but yeah I'm looking at the same setup. sounds like a great project for this winter.
As far as the gold valves, I was wondering if anyone has upgraded the springs and then the valves later, and how big an improvement were the valves?
:thanks:
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Can anyone in this thread tell me the eye to eye dimension for the lowering dogbones?
I work in a weld shop and I'm confident I can "fab" my own, it's just the distance between the eyes that I don't know.
If I can make one set, I'm sure I can make a bunch, so if anyone needs a set let me know....my cost plus shipping.
Thanks, Graham
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I seem to remember seeing a post where some one made up their own out of strap steel but I'm sure with a little trial and error you could figure it out!
I was checking out the ones from Holeshot and it seems they would be easy to fabricate!
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Found the post for you!
http://forums.banditalley.net/viewtopic.php?t=199
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Thanks Mongo. Now it's off to the garage to drop the dogs and into the scrap bins at work for FREE flat bar!
Cheers, Graham
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hey Mongo sounds like you have it sorted nice job :motorsmile: i have a couple of question though if you dont mind.
1-which racetech springs did you use
2-what are your final susspension settings
3-i hope this insnt a rude question but what is your weight
4-i nearly forgot to ask what weight fork oil
thanks
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hey Mongo sounds like you have it sorted nice job :motorsmile: i have a couple of question though if you dont mind.
1-which racetech springs did you use
2-what are your final susspension settings
3-i hope this insnt a rude question but what is your weight
4-i nearly forgot to ask what weight fork oil
thanks
1-FRSP S373210
2-Fronts the preload was taken down to 0 and turned back up 4 1/2 turns. On the rear shock the spring length was set at 183 mm on the bench prior to installation with the rebound set at 13 clicks and the compression at 9 clicks.
3-I'm a fat boy at 280 lbs!
4- #10 Fork Oil.
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Mongo :thanks:
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I picked up a stock swing arm on Flea Bay so the next step is to take it over to Trac Dynamics (http://www.tracdynamics.com/) and have it extended 4"!
I also picked up a set of GSXR cams I need to toss in for a little more grunt!(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k235/Miss_hiss/goinginsane.gif)
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dont know how many big boys are th inking of a B6 2nd gen upgrade but I thought I would throw in my numbers.
2nd gen B12 shock installed with 5 clicks preload, #3 position on dampening,
racetech 1.0 (the heaviest) springs installed with spacer cut 1 inch about fork tops, 15 wt high quality oil installed.
265 pound rider!!!! (lift too many weights)
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When you say you cut the spacer, as I am not familiar with the these B12 fork components, did you cut down an original spacer or make one from metal stock and if so what did you use? Also what year Busa shock did you use and does it matter?
A few Picks to help explain Race Tech front spring installation and rear Busa shock.
I ended up cutting a 4 3/8" spacer on the front springs!
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j41/02-mongo/CIMG3246.jpg)
Rear shocks Side By Side
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j41/02-mongo/CIMG3234.jpg)
Installed with air box mods, much easier to see the missing ear with the stage 2 air box.
.
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j41/02-mongo/CIMG3241.jpg)
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my 2G B6 race techs came with an aluminum spacer that you have to cut, but many people are using PVC tubing. Either is fine, just cut straight. Once the springs are in they do not reach the top of the fork tube, a spacer is put in place which can add preload. In my opinion the most common spacer is 3/8 inch over the top of the fork tube, I went a inch as I am so heavy.
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Great that explains it. I just need to save this post now as future project. Thanks
my 2G B6 race techs came with an aluminum spacer that you have to cut, but many people are using PVC tubing. Either is fine, just cut straight. Once the springs are in they do not reach the top of the fork tube, a spacer is put in place which can add preload. In my opinion the most common spacer is 3/8 inch over the top of the fork tube, I went a inch as I am so heavy.
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Got my busa shock in for the B12... anyone around 150lbs have any ideas what you set it to? Want to get it at least a little dialed in before i put it on.
Thanks
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Hey guys, just put the Busa shock in, went pretty easy until I tried my home made lowering bones. The friggin wheel almost disappeard up into the tail section. So I took it all apart to see if I had done something wrong, looked at the install pictures and put it all back together again. Sure enough the back tire was like 4 inches off the ground. Soooooo, I put the original Bandit bones in and for some reason it was slightly lower than stock??????
I can sit fully flat footed on the bike, which is what I was after anyways.
Just so you know, I set the spring at 183mm, just like I read in here some where, wound in my clicks and backed them out half way. Now all I've got to do is adjust the back wheel so that the chain isn't so sloppy, put on my GIVI luggage and I'll be set. Well except for the bars, there's a bike show next weekend and I'm going o take my stock bars so I can compare them to something a bit taller and a bit further back.
What I'm really looking forward to is my trip at the end of next month...
(http://www.iomguide.com/races/tt/images/tt-races-header.gif)
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just wanted to say thanks for posting those pics, did my shock install, and spring install today, was nice to have them to look at for reassurance.
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:stop: Please remember that the longer shock length changes the way you must adjust your chain so it will not be too tight when the shock compresses.
If you follow the procedure recommended in the book, it will be too tight when compressed to the point where the swingarm is level and the chain is at its tightest point.
I found that it just takes a minute to pull the lower dog bone bolt so the swing arm moves freely. Then I use a wooden block to raise the rear wheel so the swing arm is level with the countershaft sprocket.
When I adjust the chain, I set it snug but not tight. That way, when I reinsert the dogbone bolt and set the bike on its sidestand there is a little more slack in the chain than was needed with the stock length shock.
The result is that my chain and sprockets, not to mention my countershaft bearings, are not damaged by an overtight condition that would otherwise happen if I used the "regular" factory chain adjustment method/specs.
This takes longer to describe than it takes to do it - but it is important and the change in swingarm geometry must be taken into account if you want to use a longer-than-stock shock without serious problems.
Hope this helps. Good luck.
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Good point Dave.
One of the tips I picked up in racing was to leave a little more play in the chain due to the extreme suspension compressions during a race.
Some guys just can't understand why their chain snaps half way through a race, well one reason is they are setting it up as if on the street.
Don't forget that two up riding with luggage etc will compress the suspension even more, so allow for that too.
Well, I went to the show but no luck with the bars. I'll have to check out the local bike salvage places.
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Thanks Dave I'll have to try this out especially since I just did the 520 conversion on my bike and I really don't want to FU a new chain and sprocket.
Fortunatly I have not done any damage using the method in the book but it's still good to know!!