What rear shock shall I use?

[Desolation Angel]

That's what you have to do, dude!  You read everyone's input and take your best shot!  For me, I read everything and decided the price was right and I took a chance on the Hyabusa shock.  Glad I didn't spend a wad like I'd thought about doing.

But I wasn't sure it would be a good idea.  I just had to JUMP!

Like I did with Helibars, Sargent seat, gel seat, ZG Sport Touring screen, steel braided lines and cables, top case, etc.  I read and hoped each of these things would meet my needs when I tried 'em.  I didn't know for sure, at all.

I'm about to jump into Z6 Roadtecs, too, after only reading people's opinions on a couple of sites.  Many threads, but just opinions.

I'll let you know if I f^cked up!  

[2005B12S]

I don't know what kind of swapout I should go with. My main concern is that it will be too stiff regardless of preload adjustment. I would rather have too soft instead of too stiff for safety reasons.

My buddy did a swapout with this ninja, and its too stiff, the sag is less than half an inch, like racetrack setting. this is why I'm not sure if I should try the busa or GSXR shock.

Anyways Most people just say buy this, or buy that, and its only because they own the part there telling me to buy. Would anyone tell me what their  SAG is on their rear shock compared to their rider weight.

A busa shock might be great for 2 up riders, or someone over 250lbs, but Im at 190, wouldn't a busa shock be too stiff?

I guess I'll just buy something and try it out.........

Sag is a function of preload and spring weight. Sag should be set at 1/4 to 1/3 of the total wheel travel - usually about 30mm for street bikes. This is usually set by adjusting preload. If preload adjustments will not allow you to set proper sag, the spring is too stiff.

What really counts is how the shock responds to irregular surfaces. This is where the damping functions come into play-rebound and compression. This is where aftermarket shocks leave most stock components behind.

Don't confuse yourself, its one thing to bolt on a shock designed for another bike and completely different to buy a purpose built, model specific unit. The Busa shock has proven itself to be a decent, low budget, replacement for the stock B12 unit. After all it is Suzuki's "flagship model". Enough said.

Give it a try, if its not good enough, you can always buy the WP. You are only out a few hours labor and $30. With the money you have in the front end, I thought you were looking for a real nice rear unit.

Most guys are happy on the Busa rear, I just don't buy comparisons between it and the WP unless you are looking at $ signs only.


Ride On, Ed.
2005 GSF1200SZ
1983 GS750ED
1992 900SS

[IcyChaos]

I don't know what kind of swapout I should go with. My main concern is that it will be too stiff regardless of preload adjustment. I would rather have too soft instead of too stiff for safety reasons.

My buddy did a swapout with this ninja, and its too stiff, the sag is less than half an inch, like racetrack setting. this is why I'm not sure if I should try the busa or GSXR shock.

Anyways Most people just say buy this, or buy that, and its only because they own the part there telling me to buy. Would anyone tell me what their  SAG is on their rear shock compared to their rider weight.

A busa shock might be great for 2 up riders, or someone over 250lbs, but Im at 190, wouldn't a busa shock be too stiff?

I guess I'll just buy something and try it out.........

Sag is a function of preload and spring weight. Sag should be set at 1/4 to 1/3 of the total wheel travel - usually about 30mm for street bikes. This is usually set by adjusting preload. If preload adjustments will not allow you to set proper sag, the spring is too stiff.

What really counts is how the shock responds to irregular surfaces. This is where the damping functions come into play-rebound and compression. This is where aftermarket shocks leave most stock components behind.

Don't confuse yourself, its one thing to bolt on a shock designed for another bike and completely different to buy a purpose built, model specific unit. The Busa shock has proven itself to be a decent, low budget, replacement for the stock B12 unit. After all it is Suzuki's "flagship model". Enough said.

Give it a try, if its not good enough, you can always buy the WP. You are only out a few hours labor and $30. With the money you have in the front end, I thought you were looking for a real nice rear unit.

Most guys are happy on the Busa rear, I just don't buy comparisons between it and the WP unless you are looking at $ signs only.


Ride On, Ed.
2005 GSF1200SZ
1983 GS750ED
1992 900SS

Thanks. My only real concern was the busa spring was overly stiff for me being at 190lbs. Therefore it not having enough sag regardless of preload setting.

As for dampening, since the WP shock Im looking into doesn't have adjustment, will it be better than a busa shock? or is it the way it dampens that counts.

anyways I overly research stuff before large purchases. Thanks for your input guys. Desolation I've realized that anything you buy is what we must own. this isn't how I like to do things. You didn't elaborate when your telling people to save and buy renthal bars its worth it. why??  You've tried a few seats and when people ask about seats you say buy sargent. why?  So I just assumed the busa shock is the best because you own it, well I like to find out more info before I purchase.

I don't really have the time or money to try different items, this is why I come to the forums. to get others inputs. I'll keep researching to death on various other forums and here, but right now im thinking WP is the way togo. Lets just hope they can set the dampening right for me when I buy it.

[Desolation Angel]

... Desolation I've realized that anything you buy is what we must own. this isn't how I like to do things. You didn't elaborate when your telling people to save and buy renthal bars its worth it. why??  You've tried a few seats and when people ask about seats you say buy sargent. why?  So I just assumed the busa shock is the best because you own it, well I like to find out more info before I purchase.
.

 

Ice, I think your tone and comments above are unwarranted, but my reply that I posted here yesterday was over the top.  I'm sorry I said what I did to you.  Wish I could take it back.

Ref your comments, I didn't realize that I was making it sound in my posts like I was demanding anyone to buy anything or use any particular product.  I meant to only pass on that I personally had had some success with certain products recommended to me by more experienced Bandit owners on this site.  I definitely was not saying only my way was the right way.  I'll be more careful with my wording in the future.

I apologize to everyone that may have seen my explosion.

[IcyChaos]

Sorry I wasn't able to read or reply before I went out of town.. Hwy 129.

Im sorry Desolation, I was frustrated, and went off on you for no reason. Like a 12 year old kid I attacked someone for my other problems. I'll learn eventually.

Eitherway I hope you forgive me and pretend this didn't happen, but thats up to you. I'm sorry

[gyrogearcrunch]

I push this bike to the limits, and think to myself everyday why im still riding the bandit. Great power, but Im scraping pegs so often the amount of cash I keep pumping into the bike almost makes it not worth it.

Anyhow is the WP shock adjustable as much if not more than the progressive?? I couldn't get them to answer the phone one day I called.

If you're sanding down your Bandit's footpegs, why not test-ride a GSX-r750? This is the one you can't tell apart from the GSX-R1000. The 750 has 146 HP, is about 7 lbs. lighter and has the same suspension parts as the big Gixxer.

Don't fall for the GSX750F, however. It sports the same cheap running gear found on the Bandits. That why it costs a lot less.

Herb 0