Hello all,
I am looking at replacing my stock bars with the Bikemaster Daytona bars. I am looking for a little more comfortable bend and a bit more height. So this leads me to several questions I hope those of you who have made this upgrade can answer.
- How much more rise and pull back if any does the daytona have compared to stock?
- Does the daytona need to have longer brake lines?
- How big a a pain would is it to switch out handle bars?
- Does anyone have pictures of the daytona bars on a bandit?
Thanks
Sam
The Daytona bars have maybe an inch more rise and an inch less pullback, getting rid of the awkward bend that is the source of pain for most people from the stock handlebars.
I would definitely cut off about 3/4" off the ends of the bars. If you do that the stock lines all fit easier and better.
Here's a write up I did on swapping handlebars...
1. You will probably need a new left-hand grip unless you can get the stock one off without ripping it. You probably want to buy/order that in advance. I don't use any glue on the left grip, so I was able to just wiggle it off the old bars.
2. Cover the tank with a bath towel and also put one around the front of the bars to keep from scratching anything.
3. Remove the chrome caps over the handlebar clamps with a jeweler's flat screwdriver, or razor knife.
4. Remove the bar-end weights being careful not to let the nut drop into the bars. (Although it's not that big a deal if they do because you're taking the bars off anyway.) If you haven't done it before, you need to tug on the bar-end weight as you unscrew it.
5. Remove the control switches. 3 screws on the right one, 2 on the left one. Note that each side has a cable-retaining plate you won't want to forget to re-attach.
6. Remove the brake & clutch assemblies. Since the black paint comes right off on these four bolts... you may want to replace them with black metric allen-head ones they sell at most large Ace Hardware Stores.
7. Since the Superbike bars don't have the knurled markers to line them up under the handlebar clamps... measure them to find dead-center and mark it with a pen or something.
8. Take off the handlebar clamps... be careful not to let them or the handlebars drop onto the gas tank or anything. Remove old bars. (Throttle end just slides off when you remove bars.)
9. Slip the throttle sleeve over the new bars before you mount them in the clamps. You won't be able to do this after the new bars are mounted without removing the throttle cables. (PITA)
10. Align the new bars in the clamps so they are centered.
11. Tighten both handlebar clamps down tightly so you can put the new left grip on without shifting the bars. Then loosen the clamps just enough so the bars stay in place but still can be rotated.
12. The controls have 'nubs' on them that are supposed to fit into holes on the handlebars. Some people just cut off the nubs... but I don't recommend it since it will allow the controls to rotate too easily on the bars. Place the controls back over the bars just for alignment purposes... don't screw them back down yet.
13. Put the clutch/brake assemblies back on the bike about 3/8" away from the switch controls. Tighten them down just enough so they don't rotate freely
14. Gently turn the bars right/left to make sure the clearance is okay. Also make sure the bars and brake/clutch assemblies are angled/rotated the way you want them. Then tighten down the handlebar clamps, the brake, and the clutch mounts.
15. This is probably the hardest part... drilling holes for the nubs on the controls. The easiest way I found to do it is to use a black marker on the nubs, then position the controls on the bars where you want them. The marker on the nub should leave a black spot on the bars where you are going to drill the holes. Use a sharp nail punch to start the holes. This will ensure that the drill bit doesn't 'walk' and scratch the chrome. The holes on the stock bars are too big I found... so use a smaller drill bit.
16. Screw the controls back on making sure the nub is seated in the hole. Also make sure the cable retainers are in place on each side.
17. Pull out the plastic end-caps on the new bars with a pair of pliers. Work them out slowly or they will break off inside the handlebars.
18. Put the bar-ends back in & tighten them down.
19. Check tightness of all the fasteners again
20. You can loosen the clutch and brake banjo bolts very slightly to rotate the hoses for better routing position without leaking any fluid. Don't squeeze the brake or clutch lever while doing this, however.
21. Replace chrome bolt covers on the handlebar clamps.
22. Miller Time.
I have some pics around, I'll see if I can dig them up tomorrow.
Topic: Need input on replacment handle bars for 2gen B12s (Read 3850 times)