Bandit Alley
GENERAL MOTORCYCLE FORUMS => GENERAL MECHANICAL & TECHNICAL => Topic started by: rfulcher on August 25, 2006, 10:54:09 AM
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Bought a 2003 Bandits S with 1000 miles last weekend. I love the bike. However I am sure the PO did not have the valves adjusted. The local Suzuki shop says not to worry about the valves, they don't even want to check them :shock: . The weekend is great for a trip to the mountains. The ride will be about 500 miles mostly back road with maybe 20 to 30 miles on the intersate. My wife has a Bandit 600 for her first bike and this would be her first long ride. The weather looks really good for the ride.
Should I go for it?
Ross
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Definitely.
I know some people seriously disagree... but I also have an '03 1200... and I wish I would have waited for 1200-1600 before my first valve adjustment.
You may just want to change the oil & filter first, however.
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="rfulcher"]Bought a 2003 Bandits S with 1000 miles last weekend. I love the bike. However I am sure the PO did not have the valves adjusted. The local Suzuki shop says not to worry about the valves, they don't even want to check them :shock: . The weekend is great for a trip to the mountains. The ride will be about 500 miles mostly back road with maybe 20 to 30 miles on the intersate. My wife has a Bandit 600 for her first bike and this would be her first long ride. The weather looks really good for the ride. Should I go for it? Ross
If it idles smooth, and has a bit of valve noise (clatter/chatter) don't worry about it! Do change the oil though if it hasn't been to this point!!!! 03 has to B by now!!!! The first 3 hrs is where most break in wear occurs !!! Most shops will take your $$ if you pay 4 this to b done and won't even take the valve cover off!!! THE SHAME!!! :beers: :beers: :motorsmile: :motorsmile:
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Okay, so some type of trip is on for the weekend. The PO said he completed all but the valve adjustment for the 600 mile check. The oil appears amber as if it is relatively new. If he had not changed the oil I am guessing it would not appear clear after 1000 miles.
If he has not changed the oil (I think he did, maybe :roll: ) would a filter and oil change be needed or just an oil change? If I needed a filter can I get one at somewhere like NAPA?
The ride is on :motorsmile:
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I did mine a little late, but some definitely needed some adjustment. I have been told that your first valve adjustment is the most critical. All your stuff is getting worked in.
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Go ride. You won't hurt anything. Most dealers won't check em at 600 unless you beg them too.
Dave
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The stealer was supposed to do mine with the purchase but after marking the valve cover so i could be sure they did!! Note!!! After a fuss they admitted they didn't and that these won't need to be until about 18k??? I did it a few days later they were almost rite on. I did it again at 20k, the #1&2 cyl were a few to tight but would have been fine. Made a bit more noise than before but ran the same. The walmart brand filter is as good a one as you will ever need IMO. Get the Rotella T the same time. Also the champion plugs they sell works better than the HGK's for me anyway. :beers: :beers: :motorsmile:
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I know my valves got looked at. That is because I developed an oil from my valve cover when it came out of the shop. I've done my own ever since. I have been told to get at least one tune-up from the stealer on new bikes. That way it puts you in the system for warranty and recall notices. I've always preferred to do my own work. That way I know what was done and what was out of adjustment.
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="solman"]I know my valves got looked at. That is because I developed an oil from my valve cover when it came out of the shop. I've done my own ever since. I have been told to get at least one tune-up from the stealer on new bikes. That way it puts you in the system for warranty and recall notices. I've always preferred to do my own work. That way I know what was done and what was out of adjustment.
Glad to hear they are better over there! Around here, you go to the zukster shop, one time they are pushing Honda's the next time Yama's! I don't think they do anything above change the oil & filter, and you would have to have a clear cut mess up by zuki to get anything done under warranty! Heck other than the oil burning 01's what else happens to the Bandit??? Hey do yawl get your Shinko tires over there for less than we do here? Or do you call em stinko's and not use em???
http://www.ridenowonline.com
009 Raven Radial: SHINKO 190/50ZR17 R009 :?: :?: :beers: :beers: :bigok: :bigok: :motorsmile: :motorsmile:
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Just to clear up a few things, my bike is in Texas. I am here in Korea as an extended visit for one year. My work was done at G&S Suzuki in Wichita Falls, TX. I do understand as to what you mean by getting warranty work done. I haven't had too many issues with my vehicles, but I've had issues once with a cell phone. These Bandits are a good and simple bike and I was never concerned with the idea of having to get any warranty work done. They did try to stick it to me by buying their extended warranty plan and I told them to stick it! I don't remember how much it was, but it was way too expensive. Surprisingly enough, you don't see too many motorcycles here. If you do, they are almost always small single cylinder bikes.
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Hi,
I blew off the 600 miles valve adjustment and took the bike in at 8k. The tuner said everything was fine. Now I have 18k and I know I need to get it in soon. It is however a very noisy engine. Also, when he did the valves he synced the carbs and WOW what a difference that made. I swear I was sitting on a sewing machine. I had to look at the tach to make sure the thing was running. It was really smooth and quiet.
Hay all you out there. Whats the longest any of you went without a valve adjustment without haveing any probelms?
Lucas
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="lucas"]Hi,
I blew off the 600 miles valve adjustment and took the bike in at 8k. The tuner said everything was fine. Now I have 18k and I know I need to get it in soon. It is however a very noisy engine. Also, when he did the valves he synced the carbs and WOW what a difference that made. I swear I was sitting on a sewing machine. I had to look at the tach to make sure the thing was running. It was really smooth and quiet.Hay all you out there. Whats the longest any of you went without a valve adjustment without haveing any probelms?Lucas
My 98 B12 was adj @ about 20k by me! At that time i adj only the L-two cyl (too little clearance.) Traded her @ 42k with no more adj and i could still hear em in there clattering! which means they were ok. They close up, not get loose!!! :beers: :beers: :motorsmile:
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That was the big surprise I got at 600 m on my new bandit. Took it in for the initial first service and when I asked about the valves the mech asked me what the book said. Sure nuff, check the valves. 300 bucks later the initial is done and the mech said the valves did indeed need adjusting. But she's sounding good and going strong.
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="Rocketjock"]That was the big surprise I got at 600 m on my new bandit. Took it in for the initial first service and when I asked about the valves the mech asked me what the book said. Sure nuff, check the valves. 300 bucks later the initial is done and the mech said the valves did indeed need adjusting. But she's sounding good and going strong.
:roll: :shock: :shock: :duh: :duh: :crybaby: :crybaby: :crybaby: :beers: :motorsmile:
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="lucas"]Hi,
They close up, not get loose!!! [/b][/i][/color] :
They close up? I thought they would tend to get more loose? When their too tight they can burn up right?
Also, I am a commuter and I have never even had the engine past about 5k RPM. I would think that not pushing the motor too hard would extend the time period for valve adjustments. :shock:
Lucas
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They close up? I thought they would tend to get more loose?
on the B4's and I would assume most other bikes, the valves get tighter as they wear. The valve is harder than the valve seat, so the valve wears into the valve seat causing the stem to stick out farther and the gap between top of valve stem and cam to get tighter. (or maybe the valve seat is harder than the valve, so the valve gradually gets thinner. either way, it makes the valve stem ride higher).
I think.
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They close up? I thought they would tend to get more loose?
on the B4's and I would assume most other bikes, the valves get tighter as they wear. The valve is harder than the valve seat, so the valve wears into the valve seat causing the stem to stick out farther and the gap between top of valve stem and cam to get tighter. (or maybe the valve seat is harder than the valve, so the valve gradually gets thinner. either way, it makes the valve stem ride higher).
I think.
Look at this post: http://forums.banditalley.net/viewtopic.php?t=3713&highlight=valve+adjustment
Although there seems to be some difference of opinion on the point I would say the consenses is that they get tighter and therefore burn.
Lucas
Lucas
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="lucas"]="lucas"]Hi,They close up, not get loose!!! [/b][/i][/color] :
They close up? I thought they would tend to get more loose? When their too tight they can burn up right?Also, I am a commuter and I have never even had the engine past about 5k RPM. I would think that not pushing the motor too hard would extend the time period for valve adjustments. :shock: Lucas
I guess babyin it may be easier on the eng wear? The most important thing i think is change the oil and use a multi vis that gets to the cam/valve train in a hurry! 20w50 in cold weather won't. If it starts to act sluggish in very hot temps or acts any diff in hotter than normal, stuck in traffic, piddling in garage with no fan cooling eng! guess what to little clearance! Once you do the adj (adj to most) you will hear the tapping of em! The valve is actually seating deeper in the seat that's why the get tight! :beers:
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="lucas"]Hi,
They close up, not get loose!!! [/b][/i][/color] :
They close up? I thought they would tend to get more loose? When their too tight they can burn up right?
Also, I am a commuter and I have never even had the engine past about 5k RPM. I would think that not pushing the motor too hard would extend the time period for valve adjustments. :shock:
Lucas
Your valves will 9/10 tighten as they wear into the valve seats. A valve with a slightly loose tollerance will just aggrivate you, while one which is too tight in tolerance will lead to engine damage, as the valve will not fully close.
I have always set my valves on the loose side of the recomended tollerances.
But the 1st valve adjustment on the Bandit is the most critical, as the 1st 600 miles is where most of the "seating" occurs. After the 1st adjustment, you will rarely find a valve which is out of spec much.
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I waited and did mine at 1,200 mi. I did them myself too. Only three valves needed adjustment.
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[/quote]Your valves will 9/10 tighten as they wear into the valve seats.[/quote]
I don't understand what you mean by 9/10 tighten. :?:
Thanks
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Let me guess!! :shock: 9 out of 10 times ??? :wink:
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The only way they will get loose is if the adjuster left a nut loose! Or you are using crappy, fuel deluted, or some sythetic type, oil! :beers:
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On newer engines they get tighter because the valves are wearing into the seats.
As the engine racks up serious miles, wear may occur on the adjusters or valve stem tips, this will cause them to get loose.
The air-oil cooled Bandits (and other engines of the SACS family, like GSX-F Katanas, early GSXR, GSX11G) tend to hold valve adjustment very well after the 15,000 mile point.