Damn oil filter won't come off! And the ignition switch won't turn!

[Barbarian]

Hi folks,

I know I've been gone a while, but having a second kid plays havoc with your online life :)

Anyway, I went to blow the dust and cobwebs off the bandit this weekend and get it ready for the road, but I was foiled! Foiled I tell you!

First off, my damn oil filter would not come off. My wrench couldn't turn the damn thing, so I applied some silicone spray lube to the connection and tried again. Bupkiss. So I tried a rubber strap wrench. All I did was dent the filter. So I hammered a screwdriver through the entire assembly and HEAVED. Nothing except torn metal. That filter is not coming off. 

Suggestions would be most appreciated, but I'm thinking I will have to get this towed and pay for a service shop to remove it.      (I really didn't put it on there that tight - I followed the specs)

The other issue is the ignition switch, which will not turn to the "on" position. It'll go from 'lock' to "off" but that's it.

 I have been charging the battery regularly over the winter, and I put in the battery while the oil was draining -- and I'll check it against the voltmeter tomorrow. But is this a sign my battery is kaput, or does it mean something else?

[billincentraljersey]

Ignition switch won't turn ... Humm, cannot help you there.  How long the bike has been sitting?  Shoot some WD40 in there?

The filter, was it put on and torqued down with a filter wrench?  It should be hand tighten only.  Anyway, now that th body of the filter is ripped, you have nothing else to hold on to.  THe flange of the filter is stuck there.  I have seen photos of the flange, usually, there are holes on it.  Some one on some other ofrum made a spanner, a flat bar with two studs that fits into two holes in the filter flange ... Turned it right out.  If you ae not handy making tools, I would try with a long punch or a dull chisel.  Hit it along the outer edge of the flange, counter clockwise of course.  It is not impossible, I've heard.  I would give it a try before sending for a tow and then pay for the mechanic's service.  You have nothing to loose.  Just don't muck up the threads that the filter screws onto.  Good luck.

[B6mick]

Ignition switch, keep the wd40 going through it, ya got nothing to loose at this point in the game.

Oil filter, as you have buggered it by putting a screwdriver through it a ripping the thing to bejesus. The last resort would be remove the exhaust, to allow good access to the facing rim of the filter, know heres the trick, to get a drift, like a small headed cold chisel, on to that rim, don't go crazy and score the face that the filter beds onto.
Also don't be afraid to hit in the direction of tightening up, for this often helps in releasing.
Also now that the headers are remove try using the strap as well as the drift, if there is a spare pair of hands around.....

Just another reason for spending a couple of extra hard earned dollars, on K&N filters with the nut on the front.

[Barbarian]

Just another reason for spending a couple of extra hard earned dollars, on K&N filters with the nut on the front.

Ah, but it IS a K&N filter...  And it was hand-tightened, then turned once by a wrench.

I'm thinking I will have to get some help and put the centerstand and wheels up on some blocks, so I can get a little more room to maneuver under the bike. Then I will use a wrench with a longer breaker bar before calling the shop.

There's still a substantial part of the filter there -- I basically made a gash through about 60-90 degrees of arc on one side of the filter, so there's still.

I put it away in early November...

[PaulVS]

That's a good reminder to put a fresh coat of oil on the filter o-ring before installing.

[txbanditrydr]

AND..... don't forget... lefty-loosy, righty tighty - just in case you weren't going the correct direction.

Good luck and keep us posted.

[PitterB4]

AND..... don't forget... lefty-loosy, righty tighty - just in case you weren't going the correct direction.

Good luck and keep us posted.

I was thinkin' the same thing.  I think we've all spent time turning something the wrong way. 

[Mongo]

Channel Locks a big Pair works for me!

[Barbarian]

Le sigh.

Thursday afternoon I wheeled the bike outside for attempt number 2. I got the ignition switch turning easily enough thanks to a squirt of teflon/lock de-icer, then started to work on the filter. On went another coat of WD-40, then out came the tools. The wrench with a breaker bar did nothing. The channel lock pliers just dented the filter some more. Hammering another screwdriver through got me about 5 mm of movement, but after 30 more minutes of heaving, pressing, and twisting, nothing else happened, so I gave it up.

The shop towed it away on Friday, and with any luck it'll be fixed up tomorrow. Of course, the shop is open 9-6 this week, and I'm working from 10 to 7... and there's no way in hell I can get from the shop to my office in less than 90 minutes.

Buggerit.

The only good news is I'll take the opportunity to have the shop change the brake fluid, and be completely ready to roll next weekend.

[H2RICK]

Hmmm....the very FIRST special tool I bought for my Bandit was one of those "fits-over-the-end-of-the-filter" cup wrench with the 3/8" female drive recesss in it. Mine is an aftermarket item made by Imperial that sells for ~C$25, IIRC. Works like a hot damn and has been worth every penny. You SHOULD be able to find this quite easily since it is sold through various m/c parts distributors. Heck, with the Imperial part number you just may be able to buy it through NAPA or one of the other big-box car parts chains.
Check it out here.....
http://www.imperial-tools.com/tools/autospecialty/oilwrenches_02.html

Scroll down the page and you'll see part #IF-6814 which fits a bunch of different bikes.....among them, the SACS-engined Bandits.....
although there are no applications listed as such.

PS: Sorry for your crap luck, Barbarian. Hopefully the dealer won't bend you over too badly.

[PaulVS]

Mine is an aftermarket item made by Imperial that sells for ~C$25, IIRC.

OUCH!  I picked up a Suzuki brand one for $4 US.

http://www.oneidasuzuki.com/store/parts-accessories/oem-oil-filter-or-wrench.html

[H2RICK]

Good deal, Paul.....but we poor Canucks are not blessed with the volume pricing that US riders enjoy. Unfortunately, economics dictates that we always pay a higher price for a given article. Heck, I was glad even to be able to FIND the correct cup wrench in the first place.

[PaulVS]

Good deal, Paul.....but we poor Canucks are not blessed with the volume pricing that US riders enjoy. Unfortunately, economics dictates that we always pay a higher price for a given article. Heck, I was glad even to be able to FIND the correct cup wrench in the first place.

Since it's a genuine Suzuki part... I'd be curious what Canadian Suzuki dealers sell it for.  Part # 09915-40611

[wizzobeer]

I don't think I paid much more then 25 bucks for mine 2 years ago

[Red01]

Is the OEM filter socket made of plastic?

I have a few of these in different sizes (the PerForm filters I prefer to use won't fit the OE socket) but the ones I have are all plastic, so in the case of a really stubborn one, like the subject of this thread, they'd be useless.

For really stubborn filters, I use a $7 slip-joint plier style filter wrench from Harbor Freight:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=36778