Author Topic: handlebar clamp size? (Read 5206 times)

Banditofdoom · « **on:** January 31, 2007, 06:04:45 PM »

Hey folks. Im curious if anyone knows: Is there a universal size/width for _most_ handlebar clamps? The skinny is i have an aftermarket handlebar conversion (LSL) and i want to buy a Scotts damper for a bandit 1200. The mounting plate for the damper replaces the top of the clamps on the bar, but i have no idea if the clamps will match the bracket, and i cant seem to get a reply from either company with a measurement.

Any knowledge or educated guesses are welcome

Thanks

CWO4GUNNER · « **Reply #1 on:** January 31, 2007, 06:21:15 PM »

They probably aren't answering if your asking them if it will fit your Bandit as much as they will be willing to give you the specifications and measurement of the fit, hole size and spread exc. You may have to get that information and do you own measuring and or search for someone on other BBS site for an an existing installation. If and when you do please post it here as I am also interested.

Banditofdoom · « **Reply #2 on:** January 31, 2007, 06:33:05 PM »

I asked if the clamps are the same. Are they the same distance apart? crap like that. if the clamp spacing is wider or the clamps themselves are bigger then the bracket wont fit, and i wouldve wasted 400 on the damper :/

I basically have a B12 With the entire front end of a busa. im using the LSL busa conversion to add bars, and i want the B12 damper to fit on the conversion

CWO4GUNNER · « **Reply #3 on:** January 31, 2007, 07:13:42 PM »

Wow that is a tough one since your set up is more custom then stock. I did notice that I couldn't find an application for the B12 strait up until I went to the manufacturers site which is fairly reasonable for such a sweet looking application.
http://www.scottsperformance.com/stabilizerproducts.php?PartType=21&Bike=Suzuki&PHPSESSID=027c6339056538c465f8c73c41188a5f

Banditofdoom · « **Reply #4 on:** January 31, 2007, 07:19:46 PM »

Exactly! And i love the look as well. I will take care of any welding necessary and even making a custom pin (i think the conversion clamps are moved back a inch or so).

If you have a 2nd gen bandit can you measure the bolt to bolt on your stock clamps? width of each clamp as well as how far apart from center holes. That way when i get the adapter plate i can measure it and compare to yours. If they match, ill know the damper will fit

CWO4GUNNER · « **Reply #5 on:** January 31, 2007, 07:47:07 PM »

If I do buy one I will probably sink the tower pin into the frame slightly (if its tall enough) to give it more strength to the weld and pin. All I have is an AC tombstone welder but I think I am good enough to do the job.

Banditofdoom · « **Reply #6 on:** January 31, 2007, 07:49:57 PM »

I hear ya. my concern is the tower pin wont fit in its specified groove with the main unit move back an inch. But if the only thing that needs modification is the location of that little tower pin, im home free! thats easy

CWO4GUNNER · « **Reply #7 on:** January 31, 2007, 08:13:53 PM »

From reading about the different applications in the photo gallery, the pin does not have to be centered and will not affect the dampener. In the DRZ400 application, it shows the pin welded off center. I can see now that I may have to lose my bar risers which come up and back one inch, very sad as my back is telling me "your smoking crack!". I suppose I could modify or extend the tower pin but that could cause other clearance issues.

Red01 · « **Reply #8 on:** February 01, 2007, 10:56:02 AM »

Quote from: "CWO4GUNNER"

I can see now that I may have to lose my bar risers which come up and back one inch, very sad as my back is telling me "your smoking crack!". I suppose I could modify or extend the tower pin but that could cause other clearance issues.

While you may have to loose the risers, your back can be happy with a new set of handlebars - which are usually cheaper than riser kits. (I know, too late for you, but not for someone thinking about a change.)

CWO4GUNNER · « **Reply #9 on:** February 01, 2007, 01:44:37 PM »

Well I can always sell the bar risers. So do you have a recomended alternative to the bar riser that provides the same or better reach relief, and if so are there required modifications (lengthening) to cable, lines, or wires required?

Quote from: "Red01"

Quote from: "CWO4GUNNER"
I can see now that I may have to lose my bar risers which come up and back one inch, very sad as my back is telling me "your smoking crack!". I suppose I could modify or extend the tower pin but that could cause other clearance issues.

While you may have to loose the risers, your back can be happy with a new set of handlebars - which are usually cheaper than riser kits. (I know, too late for you, but not for someone thinking about a change.)

Red01 · « **Reply #10 on:** February 01, 2007, 02:17:29 PM »

I don't have a bar brand & part number, if that's what you mean. There's literally dozens of different bends out there from the various handlebar vendors (plus various UJM stockers if you can find a pair that suits you), the challenge is finding the right bend for you. If you find one that puts the grips in the same spot as your risers, it's going to require the same mods your risers did. If you go with a bar that's much taller and/or pulled back than the OEM bar, you're probably going to have to deal with the cables and brake lines. The bar on the 1G B12 is slightly taller than the 2G and folks that have done this swap in the past say it can be done without any changes. I came pretty close to going this route, but grew accustomed to the stock bars, so never bothered.

Banditofdoom · « **Reply #11 on:** February 01, 2007, 02:20:52 PM »

So i found a local machinist that will fab a bracket to mount the scotts and alter it accordingly to fit the LSL riser clamps. Ill keep you all posted on my results. Only one bad thing. Unlike GPR dampers (who dont make one for a B12), there are no color choices, just gold. My bike will be vlack from top to bottom/front to back. Do you guys think it'll ruin the look to have a gold damper sitting on the bars?

Red01 · « **Reply #12 on:** February 01, 2007, 02:30:02 PM »

I think it'll look great! But if you don't, you could always paint, powder coat or anodize it.

Banditofdoom · « **Reply #13 on:** February 01, 2007, 02:35:43 PM »

How do you powdercoat it? dismantle it? I would think it would harm all the knobs and whatnot. and potentially the clearances of said knobs/clickers with the unit itself...

Yes im a Noob to dampers

Red01 · « **Reply #14 on:** February 01, 2007, 02:48:01 PM »

I don't know enough about them to say for sure if you could powder coat one or not.

You could try contacting Scotts and asking them if it would be possible - or even if they would consider selling you one in black for an extra fee.