Hey Datona
It's funny, for a guy in the oil business, I spend less time thinking about my own equipment...Sorry, I did not vote in the poll. After doing some research, in part prompted by questions and comments on this site, I have come up with the following conclusions as to oil in the air/oil cooled bandit:
1. High reving engines need less viscosity. I don't see a need for 20W50 unless your oil temp gets REALLY hot.
2. The gearbox needs higher viscosity and would like enhanced antiwear and/or EP additives, but these additives cause problems with the wet clutch. VII in multigrades will help by trying to keep the viscosity up.
3. Full synthetics eg: PAO's (NOT group 2 & 3 hydrotreated oils) offer lower internal friction due to their uniform molecular size. This keeps oil temperaturs slightly lower and should extend bearing life. A side benefit is that POA synthetics need less VII improver to keep viscosity up.
4. Add this all up and I would recommend in the following order:
a) Full synthetic Diesel engine oil, such as Mobil Delvac 1 5W40, Esso XD-3 0W40. Lots of others. Diesel engine oils have more shear stable VII.
b) Conventional & Part Syn Diesel engine oils, usually 15W40.
c) Full Synthetic auto engine oils, (PAO's not Esters or PolyGlycols), preferably 10W40 and not Energy Conserving.
d) Conventional auto engine oils - 10W40. Be aware that these oils and some full sythetic auto oils will shear out of grade more quickly, with a 10W40 becoming a 10W30 in service. You should likely change these oils more often.
I hope this helps. Remember, the most important thing is to change the oil regularly. I change mine at 5000 kms (3000 miles), and I would suggest you find a brand you like and stick with it.
Also, remember that this thread started with a questions about how to reduce seal leakage. You can change oil manufacturers if you are trying to get a different result.