So far I can't seem to find why they overflowed. I took the carb bank out off the bike and took all the float bowl covers off. I took the floats and needle valves out and looked at each valve. They all look I-DENTICAL (slap your hands together like that prosecutor from My Cousin Vinny.)
With the needles out I sprayed carb cleaner in each needle seat and also did it reversed where the fuel line plugs into the rail between the carbs. The liquid dripped/poured out easily and cleanly. I sprayed it in each needle seat and it came out where it was supposed to.
Inside each float bowl cover was clean. No more gritty stuff that I had found previously. I checked the float heights as per "Bills Method" as best as I could. The manual says to turn the carbs upside down and measure it that way. I checked those measurements and it was 1/4". Bill's method showed me 1/2" plus or minus a few sixteenths. Best guess I have is the float heights are right.
With the carbs off I readjusted the pilot screw turns to 3 3/4 out as per Dale's instructions. Next I have to see if the tank is clean. I held it over a bucket and turned the petcock to prime to watch the gas come out. It looked clean in there. I shook it up a lot a few times, let it settle and repeated. The gas coming out looks clean as it should. I was going to remove the valve and stuff from it but supposedly you have to replace the gasket and o-rings in there. I don't know if I'm going to mess with that. If the filter in there was clogged I don't think the gas would pour out like it did. I hooked my tank up to the carbs when they were backed off the manifolds and opened the valve to prime. This was a suggestion a friend of mine had, he said if the floats were jammed or not closing enough I should see gas leaking out. No gas leaked out. That was before I took them apart. So I'm guessing no dirt got in as well.
I'd like to start it up but I think I should change the oil and filter first no? Probably a good idea to do that. I'll call the dealer and see if he's open and if he has the filter in stock.
***Update Saturday night***
Well I changed the oil and filter. Hooked up the tank and went for a nice, long, half hour ride. I went fast, I went slow, I went through traffic and I sat at traffic lights. I was riding with the drain plug for the air box off just in case but every time I sat at idle somewhere I looked down and didn't see anything dripping. I will say this much, this biatch has some pull to it now! I can't believe the torque and horsepower increase from these jets. It saddens me that I've decided to sell it. I tried everything I could think of to replicate the fuel overflow problem and did not see any evidence of a reoccurance. Tomorrow I will go for an even longer ride with the drain plug in. I'll stop here and there and pull the plug to see if gas is accumulating inside the airbox. I'm thinking whatever the problem was, its gone now. Here are a few questions I'll pose since Dale Walker's place is on vacation this week and he's not taking any e-mails.
I noticed in the manual when I read about fuel overflow problems in troubleshooting that the needle valve and the spring in the top cap could be a cause. It listed faulty needle jet and broken spring as a cause. Why is that? It also listed bad float height and bad float needle valve as a cause. Those I understand. What I don't get is how a faulty variable venturi could cause a fuel overflow and why did it not have that problem before the re-jetting when two of the four springs were kinked up and preventing the needle jet from operating correctly. Could gas have been building up that whole time and it finally showed itself?
I'm 95% certain I cut those springs correctly as per Dale's instructions. I even measured the cut pieces and matched them all up to ensure only 25mm (1in.) was removed.
My other question is what is the purpose of the small o-ring under the top cap that is kind of off to the side? Two of the four were missing due to the cap being put on backwards. I did not bother to replace them since as far as I can tell they don't really do anything. I'm sure they do something but the stupid manual doesn't tell me what. They just sit in a small pocket with nothing underneath them but the metal body of the carb. So why are they there? The part of the cap that covers them doesn't have an opening I can see either. What's the deal?
Topic: Major Problem after Carb Rebuild!! (Read 4740 times)