Bandit Alley
GENERAL MOTORCYCLE FORUMS => GENERAL MECHANICAL & TECHNICAL => Topic started by: Ray Mooney on September 26, 2008, 10:56:57 AM
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OK, always wondered this, but was afraid to reveal my ignorance...
When you loosen the axle nut to tighten the chain, how loose is loose? I find that if the axle nut is so loose that it's spinning, your chain adjustment is way, way off once you tighten up again. So how loose does it need to be? Just enough so that the axle moves when you move the adjustment screws? Will I damage anything by turning the adjustment screws if the axle nut is not loose enough?
Every time I do this simple maintenance it seems it's another round of trial and error. Axle nut too loose, chain too loose when I torque down the axle nut. Axle nut too tight, chain too tight when buttoned up. Over the years I've managed to muddle through and not damage my chains (I think), but it bugs me every time.
How does one determine how loose is loose enough?
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Are you using any sort of lever to counter-act the tightening process of the axle nut??? I can't vouch for the 1250's but I use a 14mm open end wrench and pry forward against the adjuster while tightening the axle nut. This helps stop the axle creep and leaves the chain pretty much the same tension.
You do want the axle to be able to move when changing the adjusters but a little friction makes the adjusters work more positively and consistently. I snug the axle nut to the point where all surfaces are touching (swing arm, spacers, cush drive, brake caliper mount) but you can still rotate the brake caliper mount with some effort.
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I understood almost none of that. :shrug:
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I think what he's saying is: loosen the axle nut until there is gaps between at least one of the components the axle/nut is squeezing together (usually the washer under the axle nut will be the first one you'll see any gap in), then snug it back down so there's no visible gap, make your adjustment, then torque the axle nut while prying the axle against the adjuster to minimize movement.
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My proceedure is to loosen it as above, ie: until the nut is loose, then just snug the wheel nut with minor pressure until everything touches. After completing the adjustment, I then give the wheel a good "boot" from the back, to ensure everything is snug against the adjusters, then retorque the axle.
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If you tighten the axel on the side stand instead of the center stand it won't tighten back up as much. Also tighten the axel pushing toward the bike.
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Slacken the axle nut just far enough to allow the adjusters to move.
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Once you have set the rear wheel up, mark the adjuster screws. I use fingernail polish. I mark them on a flat. Takes all the guesswork out of the next adjustment. I put my leg up against the tire, from the rear with force, and then tighten the axel. Just did my first adjustment on my 07 B12.5 at 13k. Took the slack up 1/2 turn on the adjuster. I'm really pleased with the good chain wear.