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[lighter223]

That makes damn god sense... and here i thought gas in the oil was only a negative thing...

Well the oil has now been changed all plugs and wires are sparking like champs (thank God there not though).  The carbs have been cleaned, floats adjusted, and put back on with a/f screws at 2.5 turns out from lightly seated... Again.

So heres the kicker... Why the F*** has #2 cylinder started firing and the #1 cylinder stopped firing.  What could have moved....

EVERYTHING went back to its own respective carb and cylinder.. The sparkplugs are in the same spot and I have even tried switching....

I do not know what the problem of a cylinder NOT firing is following...

Anyone have any ideas why the misfiring cylinder would jump around...

[gyrogearcrunch]

OK ok thanks for that.. just what I needed.



Now I have another question..

Has anybody had any good luck putting Seafoam in your oil... I ask because I was going over "oild flushes" and most say no transmissions(no motos) and what about the other addditives in moto oil for the clutch.  Is there anything that any of you have used to clean out sludge or debris from the crankcase?

I want to do it even if it doesnt have to be done...  I would much rather take off the oil pan an clean by hand but its not in the deck of cards right now...
 
thanks,
anthony

Hey, Anthony!

If you have debris in your oil, it's best to find out what parts of your engine are broken or breaking up. Cleaning out bits and pieces isn't going to help you much except maybe help identify what parts are shedding the pieces. You must tear down the engine until you find the problem, or your engine isn't going to run for long.

Sea Foam is designed to stabilize the "gasahol" in your tank when it sits unused for months (it prevents gelling of the gasahol by making the fuel less acidic). Theoretically, it works better on Gasahol than "Stabil" does. Stabil works very well on pure gasoline, but alcohol in gasoline is an especially corrosive mixture because alcohol and water stick together tightly. It's the water that then rusts ferrous engine parts.

If you have gasoline in your oil, that's another story. It means that both your petcock and at least one carb's float valve are leaking and gas is flowing directly into your crankcase past the piston(s). Best way to detect gas in your oil is to sniff the dipstick. There should be NO gasoline odor. Also keep an eye on the oil level. Suzuki Bandits have a sight glass through which you can not only check oil level with the bike on the centerstand, but also see if the oil level is dropping or RISING. Gasoline flowing into the crankcase will cause the oil level to rise and become more pale in color. First fix the fuel leak(s), then change the oil and the filter.

[lighter223]

The gasoline in the oil was due to the valve left on prime all winter and it all ended up in the crankcase... so that is a problem solved... before winter I didnt know what the difference between prime and on was...  I actually thought that pri meant primary like there was a big arrow with flashing lights saying "use this first, it's the primary fuel and then use res(erve) for when your out of your primary fuel...

But what the hell did I know...

Anyway what I do need  is a new fuel cock because I snapped off the lever and the salvage yards are telling me $75 and I am telling them to F*** off. I am hoping to get a discount LOL (kidding)

Anyway tomorrow I will be completeing the synch because the past few days I havent had time...  If it doesnt work you will all know...

[gyrogearcrunch]

The gasoline in the oil was due to the valve left on prime all winter and it all ended up in the crankcase... so that is a problem solved... before winter I didnt know what the difference between prime and on was...  I actually thought that pri meant primary like there was a big arrow with flashing lights saying "use this first, it's the primary fuel and then use res(erve) for when your out of your primary fuel...

But what the hell did I know...

Anyway what I do need  is a new fuel cock because I snapped off the lever and the salvage yards are telling me $75 and I am telling them to F*** off. I am hoping to get a discount LOL (kidding)

Anyway tomorrow I will be completeing the synch because the past few days I havent had time...  If it doesnt work you will all know...

Been there, done that with petcocks. So, the Stealer wants $75? First ask the Stealer if there's a rebuild kit for your petcock. That ought to be a lot more reasonable. If he says "no", try the online M/C junkyards instead. Require a guarantee that the replacement they send you won't leak. They usually don't mind replacing defective parts, but it can be a hassle if you get more than two bad replacements in a row.

A third trick is to buy a "Pingel" petcock. These pass more gas (Ooh, I made a funny!) than the stock unit, so you won't starve the engine under high demand for fuel, but Pingels don't shut off automatically since they have no vacuum diaphragm. If you install the Pingel valve, don't forget to plug the vacuum line that went to the stock valve.

You'll also need to always shut the valve off manually after you turn off the ignition, or you'll quickly discover whether or not you have a leaky float valve or two (GASOIL!).

[lighter223]

I looked at the pingel site and I saw some with a vacuum port...  is there nothing for the bandit... and does any one know the tube diameters for a 2001 b6 so  I can get an accurate price...?

the online junkyards are the ones who want 75 the dealers and ronayers want 90....

as far as rebuild... I would rather get a pingel then fix this...  I have changed thevalve to ON so i am fine for the man time but would like more gas flow  but  Ihave a bad memory and would like the vacuum feature...

[gyrogearcrunch]

I looked at the pingel site and I saw some with a vacuum port...  is there nothing for the bandit... and does any one know the tube diameters for a 2001 b6 so  I can get an accurate price...?

the online junkyards are the ones who want 75 the dealers and ronayers want 90....

as far as rebuild... I would rather get a pingel then fix this...  I have changed thevalve to ON so i am fine for the man time but would like more gas flow  but  Ihave a bad memory and would like the vacuum feature...

I sent a request to Pingel for information about which of their fuel control valves can replace the OEM item on the 1200 and 1250 Bandits. I immediately recived an automated reply as follows:

Your message :- "Fuel Valves to fit Suzuki Bandit 1200 and 1250" on Mon, 4 May 2009 18:41:09 -0700 (PDT) has been received.

Now we wait.

Herb

[gyrogearcrunch]

I looked at the pingel site and I saw some with a vacuum port...  is there nothing for the bandit... and does any one know the tube diameters for a 2001 b6 so  I can get an accurate price...?

the online junkyards are the ones who want 75 the dealers and ronayers want 90....

as far as rebuild... I would rather get a pingel then fix this...  I have changed thevalve to ON so i am fine for the man time but would like more gas flow  but  Ihave a bad memory and would like the vacuum feature...

OK, I saw the Pingel valve with the vacuum shutoff on their site as well, so I sent an e-mail to them asking for more info. Also found the following post (250 & 400 Bandit group) regarding installation:

tomacGTi

Petcock options.. « Reply #3 on: January 18, 2007, 12:04:53 PM »
   
Reply with quoteQuote
Just did the Pingel and installed it. Piece of cake.

Besides the obvious clearancing of the fuel inlet, installation was a snap. No pictures as of yet as the tank is in the basement and the bike is outside under a cover for the winter but really no real rocket science involved.

If you plan on the Pingel route, I can advise you to use a Dremel tool and a carbide bit and use a shop-vac near the tool to catch the cast-off material. This will get 99% of the stuff flying off from settling inside of the tank.

Also, test fit the valve to the adapter plate beforehand to make sure the valve is clocked correctly. If not, when you install the plate onto the tank and the valve onto the plate, it can face the wrong direction. Since it is a pipe-thread fitting, it will tighten and not rotate further. The good folks at Pingel include a small packet of hylomar to seal everything together. You'll also need some teflon tape for the valve threads.

You can also pre-assemble everything but make sure you have a ball-ended 5mm to tighten the fittings down onto the tank.

Here's what you would need to order from Pingel if you went the same route as I:

-6210 Valve
-1602c Adapter plate

If you choose to have reserve: 6211

-Randy

[lighter223]

Thanks guys for going ahead and checking with them...


I got my bike to actuall go above 10... It actually got up as fast as I could go...  but there is a lot of lag in the low end....

I asked this before but I wanted to know how to remove the air inlet...

When to look at the opening of the carb (cant remember if its is on engine or airbox side...) there are to brass holes..  one Is pressed in there and the other s removable and there ARE ONLY TWO... and you can see them whn the carbs are off the bike but still fully assmbled... I hope you guys know what I am talking about...

THe book says remove to clean but I dont see a way to...
anyone know

And I will wait for your replies from pingel

[gyrogearcrunch]

Good God man!

Those "Brass Holes" are the Jets! May I respectfully request that you either learn a whole lot about Mikuni Carbs quickly, or fuggeddaboudit and go to a carb pro. 

[lighter223]

dude not talking about carbs... the flow valve from the tank is the topic here