Bandit Alley

GENERAL MOTORCYCLE FORUMS => GENERAL MECHANICAL & TECHNICAL => Topic started by: blabride on May 04, 2005, 08:13:24 PM

Title: Rejet Job Costs
Post by: blabride on May 04, 2005, 08:13:24 PM
Has anyone had this done at a shop or dealer lately. I'm contemplating a slip on and a rejet for my bandit600 but time is a real bear for me.  I though about having it done at the dealer here in town. There quote of $350.00 sounds high. But it has been twenty years since I did one on a motorcycle so maybe I don't remember the amount of work involved. If this is fair I may go ahead. Otherwise I will have to wait until June to get the time.
Thanks
Title: Rejet Job Costs
Post by: dsartwell1 on May 04, 2005, 09:07:45 PM
That is three times what I paid just a couple months ago. I'd check somewhere else or do it yourself. I wish I had. Damn dealer had the bike for over a week and the weather was great! :banghead:
Title: Rejet Job Costs
Post by: PeteSC on May 04, 2005, 11:45:30 PM
Realistically, $200 +/- a bit is about what you should pay, if you supply all the parts.   That should include a dyno run.

   Shop around, there may be a drag 'specialty' shop in your area that does a lot of jet kits, and will do it right.
Title: Re: Rejet Job Costs
Post by: smooth operator on May 04, 2005, 11:48:49 PM
Quote from: "blabride"
Has anyone had this done at a shop or dealer lately. I'm contemplating a slip on and a rejet for my bandit600 but time is a real bear for me.  I though about having it done at the dealer here in town. There quote of $350.00 sounds high. But it has been twenty years since I did one on a motorcycle so maybe I don't remember the amount of work involved. If this is fair I may go ahead. Otherwise I will have to wait until June to get the time.
  Thats about what they charge around hear. They might make a couple different attempts,wo'nt gaurenty anything,and do'nt really want to do it. Just had this conversation a couple hrs ago. I was changing my mains,and a retired mechanic that helps out at the shop was telling me about a bike he just did. He was amazed that the dealers charge that much. (he does bikes out of his garage besides helping out at the shop)
If you do'nt want to do it yourself, Maybe find someone like that,with a small buss. out of his home. Or a small shop like my buddys,thats not concentrating on selling inventory.
Title: Rejet Job Costs
Post by: Steve on May 05, 2005, 04:38:44 AM
Wait till June! For that money you could have a jet kit and a slip on. The work is not bad, some call it fun and June is just next month.

Steve
Title: jets
Post by: chupacabra on May 05, 2005, 07:30:55 AM
With the 600 you just need 2 #100 jets and 4 or 8 washers for the needles and drill out the air/fuel screw plugs to set screws to about 2 1/2 turns out. You put the jets in 1 and 4 so all the carbs are the same. If you need a K&N air filter and a advancer Dales kit (HoleShot) come with all you need, and he's very helpful. If you have that stuff already just get the two jets from who ever you can. :beers:
Title: Dales Stuff
Post by: blabride on May 05, 2005, 10:40:39 AM
I am doing this with Dales stuff. I have one of his 17 inch slipons and his stage one kit. His intructions say for Texas and low altitudes to use the 95 mains and two shims for each needle.
Chupacabra, I am confused you say to replace only two mains and leave the other two alone?
How much room do you have under that plug until you hit pilot screw brass? With a car its significant enough not to be that big of a deal.  Also on a bike how important is it to replug that hole. On my classic cars I always left them open.
What about the floats? Would the stock settings be OK or should they be bumped up to say 14mm?
Thanks
Title: jets
Post by: tacoman on May 05, 2005, 02:42:55 PM
I'm with chup, I just did the 100s on carbs 1 & 4.  I had two shims under the needles but it ran a tad rich.  I dropped to one per needle and all is good.  Do the job yourself and follow Dale's instructions, you don't need to remove any of the throttle cable/choke cables.  Just remove the boots and pull the carbs out the left side.  Important... get a good quality phillips screw driver for removing the float bowl screws.  They are soft and have loc-tite on them.  I left my floats alone.  (also, when removing the bowls be careful of the float hinge pin, its held in place by the bowl itself and can slide out.)
Title: Rejet Job Costs
Post by: B12Teuton on May 05, 2005, 04:19:18 PM
Figure 3-4 hours of labor, so just see what they charge for labor.

$40-$60 per hour is what to expect so anywhere from $120-$240.
Title: jets
Post by: chupacabra on May 06, 2005, 08:11:01 AM
I don't know about yours, but my 96B6 came stock with 98's in 1 & 4 and 100's in 2 & 3. So just make them all the same #100. I don't have Dale's stage one kit, so maybe you may want to give him a call!!  :?:  Is that what he sent you is 95's ?? Dale knows more then me. I'm at sea level and 95's would be way to lean for me IMHO. :wink:
 
Put something over the drill bit, like the plastic part of a disassembled ball point pen,  :idea: or a piece of rubber hose so only the tip of the bit will break through. And you don't have to replug them, leave them open so you can do fine tuning.

You want to keep the floats at stock hieghts, but do check them to see that they are correct.
Title: Dales kit
Post by: blabride on May 06, 2005, 11:43:53 AM
Yes Dale suggests the 95's for just the slip on and 98's for the full header system. I am at about 700'. Thanks for the info about the pilot screw. I will get after this as soon as I have the time.