Storing the bike for winter....

[PaulVS]

One winter I actually tried to store my '81 CB750F in an empty office at my dad's company (Exec. Search firm where I also worked) but I couldn't get it into the elevator to get it to the 2nd floor.

 

[jlmoulto]

So, I have always removed my battery and brought it indoors for the winter months.  My garage is not heated, but does have electricity.  Should I simply leave the battery in the bike and charge it periodically or am I better off bringing it indoors?

If it helps, the temps dring January, February and March will probably never get above freezing.

[Vlad]

So, I have always removed my battery and brought it indoors for the winter months.  My garage is not heated, but does have electricity.  Should I simply leave the battery in the bike and charge it periodically or am I better off bringing it indoors?

If it helps, the temps dring January, February and March will probably never get above freezing.

Here's what I would do if I was lucky to have what you have:

I'd definitely leave the battery in the bike (make sure the fluid level is OK if it's not a maintenance-free model). I would make a connector so I don't have to lift the seat to charge/test the battery. Then I would buy a battery tender and connect it to the connector I just made. That same connector can be used as an auxilary connector for heated vest, etc. - just make sure you put a proper fuse on it.

[silverbandit96]

Why don't you guys just drain your float bowls and let it sit all winter?

[PaulVS]

Why don't you guys just drain your float bowls and let it sit all winter?

Some people believe draining the float bowls can cause the gaskets to dry out and lose their seal.

Since you need to add stabil to the tank anyway... I just make sure I run the bike long enough to get it into the carbs.

[Fromage]

One winter I actually tried to store my '81 CB750F in an empty office at my dad's company (Exec. Search firm where I also worked) but I couldn't get it into the elevator to get it to the 2nd floor.

Well that is when you grab 2 buddies and being strong men carry the thing up the one floor...helps if the stairs are nice and wide...

[pmackie]

I am way better at describing this than actually doing it...but here is my lay up routine. (Insurance ran out Oct 8th, snowed Oct 21 +/-, so I am doing it now)

1. Stabil in the tank. Run it throught to ensure it gets into the carbs and engine.
2. Fresh Oil change. Yes, you want to get rid of the acids, soot, varnish, etc. that the oil is holding in suspension. You do NOT need to change the oil immediately in the spring. The fresh oil in the engine will be just fine until the next scheduled oil change. Ideally, make sure you circulate the fresh oil through the engine on your last ride.
3. Clean & Lube your chain!! and your cables, etc.
4. Wash & WAX the bike. Inclulding wheels, etc. I use some spray wax on the parts that I can't hand wax. This makes it way easier to clean up in the spring.
5. Fully charge the battery, then use a trickle charger or battery tender to keep it charged over the winter. If you can't leave it plugged in the bike, then keep it in a cool place where you can easily charge it. A basement will be fine.
6. Store it on the center stand to keep the load off the tires and suspension. Reduce the spring preload as much as possible. If you no longer have the centre stand, try to jack it up to unload the tires and suspension as much as possible. You springs and tires will thank you.
7. For those who have to store outside, tarp it and figure out a way to keep the critters out.
8. Avoid the temptation to start the beast up, unless you can take it for a full hour or so ride. A short start will help the battery, but will hurt everything else. approx. 70%  of all engine wear occurs on startup. Short runs increase condensation in the engine, lead to fuel dilution and soot buildup in the oil, increasing acid formation.
9. I don't believe the oil in the cylinder trick is beneficial. Extra oil on the top of the pistons just leads to additional deposit formation in the cumbustion chamber and possibly piston rings. If it is going to be a long, wet layup, consider a fogging lay up spray for the combution chamber. This will require you to remove the seat & air cleaner, and spray the lay up solution in through the carbs, usually until the engine dies. You will usually need to change the plugs when you restart after storage.

In the sping, give the thing a wash, check the tire pressures, readjust the spring preload, charge the battery again and you should be ready to go.

[Cargo7]

Hey PMackie - pretty good ideas for a rusty '70's mechanic. Two questions...

1) Should we be concerned about the valve springs being in one position too long - the concept being the same as taking the load off the suspension. In this case I'm thinking about just bumping the starter over every once in awhile (without actually starting the bike).

2) The fogging layup you mention - is this a commecially available canned remedy?

Thanks in advance!

[rider123]

I know as far as valve springs go they do get weak when in one position too long. I bought a GS750EF that the guy had stored for a long period of time that weakened the vavles springs enough that I had to do a top end rebuild after a year of owning it. Generally over a 3 month period you may be ok, but what I do is if I dont want to have the bike running a minimum of 15 minutes at a time to get to full hot in the garage(don't run it any less). What I do is what you suggested, just put in the battery and crank it over just enough to move the pistons a bit but not start it. That way you don't wear out the pistons because it's not starting and you release some of the tension on the valve springs that were compressed. If you're paranoid about it starting you could take the spark plug leads off but a better trick is just don't use the choke and it will be too lean in the cold winter to start anyway.

As far as spraying some fogging oil in the carbs when running. You could use a little ballistoil or some other very light oil(don't use WD-40 - Kerosene is very flammable!) in the carb opening while running. I wouldn't spray enough to kill the engine but a couple of quick sprays then turning it off should be enough if you really want to go that route. I don't bother and haven't had a problem yet, but my bike is only out 3 months of the year max. I drive right up untill it snows too much!! I'm too dumb to get off so take what I said with a grain of salt   All the tips here are really good but if you forget everything we've said here

FILL THE TANK AND PUT STABIL IN AND RUN IT THROUGH THE CARBS

PUT THE BIKE ON THE CENTRE STAND TO SAVE THE SUSPENSION AND TIRES
 
If you do these two things you save yourself a hell of alot of grief. I've had lazy friends not put stabil in his tank and you can imagine the pain of draing a full tank of bad gas and taking apart the carbs. Do this and put it on the centrestand you can be semi-lax on the cleaning bits and do it in the spring. These two things are non-negotiable.

P.S. When I lived in Vancouver I rode all year!! Try it!

[pmackie]

Hey Cargo7. Thanks for the kudo's...
You bring up a good point with the valve springs, and I agree that ideally you can rotate the engine to even out the storage load. I have not normally done it, but I think it is a good idea.

For short term storage, even in a place like Vancouver, I don't think you need to use the fogging lay up spray. Most auto shops including Canadian Tire have the stuff.

If you are going away long term (6 months or more) and live in a wet area, the fogging spray is a good idea. Most are just rust/corrosion inhibitors in a very light oil or kerosense.