Bandit Alley
GENERAL MOTORCYCLE FORUMS => GENERAL MECHANICAL & TECHNICAL => Topic started by: PeteSC on October 27, 2005, 01:46:33 PM
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What are you doing?
My Bandit is sitting inside my trailer, so I'lll just top off the bike with stabilized gas after the last ride this year.
I figured I'd start off this thread to encourage you to think about what you need to do to prep your bike for the 'idle months'.
Taking a few minutes now prevents damage, and makes spring start up so much less painful!
Usually, all I do is treat the gas in the bike with Stabil, since the bike may be rolled out on nice-ish days.
You'll want to fill the tank up with fresh, stabilized gas as far as you can, and run the bike a few minutes to let the stabilized stuff circulate throught he fuel system, or be prepared to drain the fuel system.
Depending on where you store the bike, you may want to wash and wax the bike, and at least cover it up.
If the bike is going to be parked somewhere there are 'critters', you may want to cover up any inlets mice, rats, and bugs can get into.
If it's damp, either polish all chrome, or wipe down all metal surfaces with an oily rag. No sense finding rust in the spring...
You can pull your battery out for the winter, or leave it in the bike.
Either way, you may want to use a maintenance type trickle charger, or charge the battery periodically, maybe monthly.
Cranking the bike up for a few minutes at a time over the winter probably won't do much good, but, if it makes you feel better....... :motorsmile:
Winter is a good time to do those little upgrade projects you've been putting off, also.
Some people will totally fill the engine with inexpensive oil. I'm not sure it's worth the effort, but it's your call.
There's a lot of other stuff. It's nice to start the season off with fresh fluids. How's your brake fluid? If it's not clear, and has a brownish color, it's time to change it.
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It is worth doing an oil change before storage so the acids in the old oil won't sit there and eat away on things.
Even though winter isn't a time I get to ride a lot, I am usually able to get out at least one day a month and burn a tank of gas, so I don't really bother with any special storage plans. If I'm not able to get in a ride within a month, I will go out and start it up and run it for 10-15 minutes to circulate things and give it enough time to more than charge up for the juice used to start it in the first place - and so the clock won't drain the battery.
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clock?
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Yes, clock. A standard feature on the 2G bikes.
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I know it wasn't winter but when I stored my bike while I was gone for a year I just filled the tank up with fuel stabilizer, ran it for a few minutes to get it circulated then topped off the tank again. I also changed the oil before I took it to the shed. When I got there I topped off the oil to the top.... takes a crap load of oil to do that! I also covered up all the holes on the bike, then covered it.
I've heard to remove the spark plugs and put some oil in the cylinders but I didn't really have time for all that before I left so I just left it as is.
When I got back I just changed the oil and got a new battery b/c I didn't put the trickle charger on it like I should have (it's much cheaper to trickle it then to buy a new battery by the way!). After all that it basicly started right up.
The first time I was gone for a year I left my bike with my dad who was supposed to run every so often. He ended up not doing that so he had to take it to the shop to get things worked out... gummed up carborators of course.
Yeah, so that's my story. Just thought I'd add to the post. Luckily down here in Texas it doesn't get to cold so the bike never goes into storage. Lucky me! South of Dallas anyways!
:beers:
Chad
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Pretty much the same here, fresh oil (I change the oil and filter in the spring), good clean and wax, pull the battery and put it on a charger/moniter. I also pull the plugs and note if they will need changing the next spring and put some oil in the cylinders. I usually do a once over on the bolts to ensure they are tight, then do the same thing in the spring, but then I'm kind of anal that way. :motorsmile:
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I'm with Red in that I do short rides every few weeks to keep things going, of course thats not an option for all of us. Avoid running a bike for a "few" minutes, it will do more harm than good. You'll make just enough warm air to create condensation in the oil and exhaust, causing corrosion. I've had real good luck on my boat using stabil in the gas and some fogging spray shot into the carb while its running. When it start smoking, turn it off. I haven't tried it in a bike but my boat has a quadrajet carb with all kinds of small jets and needles and I've had no clogging.
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Storing the bike for Winter?
I'm not. Thats the ONLY good thing about Florida :banana:
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Storing the bike for Winter?
I'm not. Thats the ONLY good thing about Florida :banana:
That and fried alligator.
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That and fried alligator.
No... to chewy....
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Im with Red, but here in the UK I might not get the chance to get you once a month but there is a garage over the road from me and they have a rolling road so might use that. have not used the bike for a few weeks, battery holds its charge well. I'm trying to get out on it this weekend just works on top of me. And when shit happens (very cold and wet/Ice) i'll have to put her a way till March. :banana:
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I don't store my bike for winter that long but I basically due what's been said here. For anyone out there the most important thing is putting Stabil in a topped up tank and running it for a few minutes to get it in the carbs. If anyone's taken apart carbs gummed up from gas residue knows it's a whole new kind of hurt in the springtime when everyone else is riding!!! And I still ride up to December and I live in Canada but don't listen to me because I'm too dumb to get off the damn thing when it snows!!!
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Since my garage doesn't have a power outlet (condo building) I take my battery out for the winter. I'm also too cheap to buy a battery tender, so I check it periodically and charge with a RadioShack 1A adapter.
At room temperature the batterey self-discharges quite quickly and has to be checked and charged about once a month.
If stored in the freezer (a good properly charged battery will not be damaged by low temperature) the check/recharge interval efectively triples, so I can practically recharge it once in the middle of the winter and forget about it.
There is some sound physics behind this effect. I also keep all my other batteries in the fridge (not the freezer).
Just a trick that has proven usefull to me...
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Doing all that winterizing stuff takes up too much time and money.
I just buy warm clothes and ride it at least three times a month.
:motorsmile: :motorsmile: :motorsmile: :motorsmile: :motorsmile: :motorsmile: :motorsmile: :motorsmile: :motorsmile: :motorsmile:
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This thread is just to depressing to think about.!!! I dont wanna put it away :crybaby: :crybaby:
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One winter I actually tried to store my '81 CB750F in an empty office at my dad's company (Exec. Search firm where I also worked) but I couldn't get it into the elevator to get it to the 2nd floor.
:duh:
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So, I have always removed my battery and brought it indoors for the winter months. My garage is not heated, but does have electricity. Should I simply leave the battery in the bike and charge it periodically or am I better off bringing it indoors?
If it helps, the temps dring January, February and March will probably never get above freezing.
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So, I have always removed my battery and brought it indoors for the winter months. My garage is not heated, but does have electricity. Should I simply leave the battery in the bike and charge it periodically or am I better off bringing it indoors?
If it helps, the temps dring January, February and March will probably never get above freezing.
Here's what I would do if I was lucky to have what you have:
I'd definitely leave the battery in the bike (make sure the fluid level is OK if it's not a maintenance-free model). I would make a connector so I don't have to lift the seat to charge/test the battery. Then I would buy a battery tender and connect it to the connector I just made. That same connector can be used as an auxilary connector for heated vest, etc. - just make sure you put a proper fuse on it.
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Why don't you guys just drain your float bowls and let it sit all winter?
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Why don't you guys just drain your float bowls and let it sit all winter?
Some people believe draining the float bowls can cause the gaskets to dry out and lose their seal.
Since you need to add stabil to the tank anyway... I just make sure I run the bike long enough to get it into the carbs.
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One winter I actually tried to store my '81 CB750F in an empty office at my dad's company (Exec. Search firm where I also worked) but I couldn't get it into the elevator to get it to the 2nd floor.
Well that is when you grab 2 buddies and being strong men carry the thing up the one floor...helps if the stairs are nice and wide...
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I am way better at describing this than actually doing it...but here is my lay up routine. (Insurance ran out Oct 8th, snowed Oct 21 +/-, so I am doing it now)
1. Stabil in the tank. Run it throught to ensure it gets into the carbs and engine.
2. Fresh Oil change. Yes, you want to get rid of the acids, soot, varnish, etc. that the oil is holding in suspension. You do NOT need to change the oil immediately in the spring. The fresh oil in the engine will be just fine until the next scheduled oil change. Ideally, make sure you circulate the fresh oil through the engine on your last ride.
3. Clean & Lube your chain!! and your cables, etc.
4. Wash & WAX the bike. Inclulding wheels, etc. I use some spray wax on the parts that I can't hand wax. This makes it way easier to clean up in the spring.
5. Fully charge the battery, then use a trickle charger or battery tender to keep it charged over the winter. If you can't leave it plugged in the bike, then keep it in a cool place where you can easily charge it. A basement will be fine.
6. Store it on the center stand to keep the load off the tires and suspension. Reduce the spring preload as much as possible. If you no longer have the centre stand, try to jack it up to unload the tires and suspension as much as possible. You springs and tires will thank you.
7. For those who have to store outside, tarp it and figure out a way to keep the critters out.
8. Avoid the temptation to start the beast up, unless you can take it for a full hour or so ride. A short start will help the battery, but will hurt everything else. approx. 70% of all engine wear occurs on startup. Short runs increase condensation in the engine, lead to fuel dilution and soot buildup in the oil, increasing acid formation.
9. I don't believe the oil in the cylinder trick is beneficial. Extra oil on the top of the pistons just leads to additional deposit formation in the cumbustion chamber and possibly piston rings. If it is going to be a long, wet layup, consider a fogging lay up spray for the combution chamber. This will require you to remove the seat & air cleaner, and spray the lay up solution in through the carbs, usually until the engine dies. You will usually need to change the plugs when you restart after storage.
In the sping, give the thing a wash, check the tire pressures, readjust the spring preload, charge the battery again and you should be ready to go.
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Hey PMackie - pretty good ideas for a rusty '70's mechanic. Two questions...
1) Should we be concerned about the valve springs being in one position too long - the concept being the same as taking the load off the suspension. In this case I'm thinking about just bumping the starter over every once in awhile (without actually starting the bike).
2) The fogging layup you mention - is this a commecially available canned remedy?
Thanks in advance!
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I know as far as valve springs go they do get weak when in one position too long. I bought a GS750EF that the guy had stored for a long period of time that weakened the vavles springs enough that I had to do a top end rebuild after a year of owning it. Generally over a 3 month period you may be ok, but what I do is if I dont want to have the bike running a minimum of 15 minutes at a time to get to full hot in the garage(don't run it any less). What I do is what you suggested, just put in the battery and crank it over just enough to move the pistons a bit but not start it. That way you don't wear out the pistons because it's not starting and you release some of the tension on the valve springs that were compressed. If you're paranoid about it starting you could take the spark plug leads off but a better trick is just don't use the choke and it will be too lean in the cold winter to start anyway.
As far as spraying some fogging oil in the carbs when running. You could use a little ballistoil or some other very light oil(don't use WD-40 - Kerosene is very flammable!) in the carb opening while running. I wouldn't spray enough to kill the engine but a couple of quick sprays then turning it off should be enough if you really want to go that route. I don't bother and haven't had a problem yet, but my bike is only out 3 months of the year max. I drive right up untill it snows too much!! I'm too dumb to get off so take what I said with a grain of salt :grin: All the tips here are really good but if you forget everything we've said here
FILL THE TANK AND PUT STABIL IN AND RUN IT THROUGH THE CARBS
PUT THE BIKE ON THE CENTRE STAND TO SAVE THE SUSPENSION AND TIRES
If you do these two things you save yourself a hell of alot of grief. I've had lazy friends not put stabil in his tank and you can imagine the pain of draing a full tank of bad gas and taking apart the carbs. Do this and put it on the centrestand you can be semi-lax on the cleaning bits and do it in the spring. These two things are non-negotiable.
P.S. When I lived in Vancouver I rode all year!! Try it!
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Hey Cargo7. Thanks for the kudo's...
You bring up a good point with the valve springs, and I agree that ideally you can rotate the engine to even out the storage load. I have not normally done it, but I think it is a good idea.
For short term storage, even in a place like Vancouver, I don't think you need to use the fogging lay up spray. Most auto shops including Canadian Tire have the stuff.
If you are going away long term (6 months or more) and live in a wet area, the fogging spray is a good idea. Most are just rust/corrosion inhibitors in a very light oil or kerosense.