Bandit Alley
GENERAL MOTORCYCLE FORUMS => GENERAL MECHANICAL & TECHNICAL => Topic started by: BLK on June 09, 2008, 04:34:24 PM
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I hate the chain tightening mechanism on the Bandit. Much prefer the simple single screw at the end of the swing arm like on the Katana, or Nighthawk or ANY OTHER FREAKING bike with a chain?
Such a cumbersome process of loosening the nut then adjusting the screw then tightening the nut while trying not to move the screw: I HATE IT HATE IT HATE.
I am thinking of replacing the stock swing arm with something that has an easier chain tightening mechanism.
What say you?
Any suggestions on other swing arms? Am I being to extreme by wanting to change the swing arm just to avoid this horrible process? Is there a trick or a manner of tightening the chain that I am unaware of that might make this despicable chore less so?
BLK
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well, and this is just a guess, isn't replacing the swingarm even MORE hassle than adjusting the chain?
In my experience all chain adjustment methods always frustrate me, so much so I put of tightening the chain for too long and then end up doing it and going...man that was easier than I thought.
I noticed this Benelli in the showroom had an interesting solution-
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3164/2566024638_4a8b8269d9.jpg)
all that to say, honestly I have no clue.
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Looks somewhat the the eccentric adjustment on my buddy's ZRX1100. I haven't watched him do it, but it sounds quick and easy compared with what we do.
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Yes, clearly replacing a swing arm would be more work than tightening a chain but my thinking is that replacing a swing arm is a one time hassel that will yeild many easy chain tightenings for years to come.
And the fact that I would even consider replacing a swing arm just to make chain adjustments easier should give you some idea as to how much I hate doing it.
But what I should probably do is quit being such a baby and deal with it.
BLK
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The Bandit's chain adjuster system isn't that different than the Katana's. The Kat setup (which is the same as the B6), still requires you to loosen the axle nut to adjust.
I've never dealt with the eccentric system like the ZRX or Benelli, but I'd think they'd require the axle to come loose, too - unless they have some pinch bolts to keep the eccentric from moving.
If you hate chain adjustments that much, perhaps your next bike should be a shaftie - or a belt drive with an auto adjuster, like Buell.
The chain adjustment thing doesn't bother me nearly as much as the cleaning & lubing of a chain - which is why my next bike will most likely be a shaftie.
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If you hate chain adjustments that much, perhaps your next bike should be a shaftie
Uh, like the FJR?! Still keeping a spot in the garage warm, er, cool for one. Next to el bandido of course!
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My first bike was shaft driven. An 81 Yamaha Maxim 650. Boy did i love the lack of maintanence on that baby.
BLK
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I did see somewhere on here or riderforums.com about a Belt conversion kit. Seemed kinda expensive, and I'm not sure it would make tightening any easier, but it might be worth a Google search. I think the company was out of the UK if I remember right.
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How much do you loosen the axle nut? I adjusted my chain two weeks ago and really didn't have any issues with the process.
Remove cotter pin, loosen axle, twist screw on right, twist screw on left, right, left, right, left, until perfect.
I did notice the little manual said to do it on the sidestand, while the big manual implied it should be done on the centerstand.
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I loosen the axle nut so there's daylight between the nut and washer/swingarm - and adjust on the sidestand.
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I've never dealt with the eccentric system like the ZRX or Benelli, but I'd think they'd require the axle to come loose, too - unless they have some pinch bolts to keep the eccentric from moving.
The Rex goes not require the axle to be loosened. It does have pinch bolts.
Great system. works a treat. One of the single best features of the stock ZRX.......
Come to think of it the only best feature of a stock ZRX. :yikes:
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I don't have issues with having to loosen the axel nut I just hate the dual nut system they have for tightening the chain. On my buddy's Katana it's just a single screw sticking out of the rear of the swing arm. What I hate is having to loose the one nut then adjusting the screw then tightening the nut while hope the screw doesn't move on me.
By the by, I have never loosened my axel nut to the point of daylight between it and the swing arm. FWIW
BLK
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What I hate is having to loose the one nut then adjusting the screw then tightening the nut while hope the screw doesn't move on me.
Yesh!
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I loosen the axle nut so there's daylight between the nut and washer/swingarm - and adjust on the sidestand.
Yes tightening the axel nut on the side stand helps keep the chain from tighteniong up as much when tightening the axel nut back up. And you should tighten up the axel nut toward the front of the bike. I've replaced my lock nuts on my 98, you have to have a wrench that you can get in on the nut good so they don't 'round off. Kinda of a pain, but I quess I'm just used to it.
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My first bike was shaft driven. An 81 Yamaha Maxim 650. Boy did i love the lack of maintanence on that baby.
BLK
if it was indeed your first bike how ever did you know that there was a margine less of upkeep on it ??? :stickpoke: :rofl: M
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I don't have issues with having to loosen the axel nut I just hate the dual nut system they have for tightening the chain. On my buddy's Katana it's just a single screw sticking out of the rear of the swing arm. What I hate is having to loose the one nut then adjusting the screw then tightening the nut while hope the screw doesn't move on me.
By the by, I have never loosened my axel nut to the point of daylight between it and the swing arm. FWIW
BLK
IF YOU TRY THIS.....MAYBE IT WON'T BE SUCH A PAIN.....
AFTER PUTING THE BIKE ON THE KICKSTAND, REMOVING THE CARTER PIN, AND LOOSENING THE AXLE NUT.....
GET A "GOOD" 10MM AND 12MM WRENCH WITH LONGER HANDLES TO USE ON THE ADJUSTING NUTS.....(NOT THE WEAK SHORT ONES THAT COME IN THE STOCK KIT).....
THIS SHOULD MAKE IT MUCH EASIER FOR YOU TO LOOSEN THE NUTS AND TRUN THE BOLTS.....
NOW LOOSEN THE 12MM NUTS.....ADJUST THE CHAIN TO THE MARKS THAT YOU WANT.....
USE YOUR FINGERS TO TIGHTEN THE 12MM NUTS AGAINST THE SWINGARM.....
NOW YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO HOLD THE 10MM BOLTS WITH ONE WRENCH AND ONLY HAVE TO TURN THE 12MM NUTS ABOUT A 1/2 TO 3/4 OF A TURN TO TIGHTEN.....
GOOD LUCK.....
B-T-W.....CHANGING THE SWINGARM DOES NOT SOUND LIKE A GOOD IDEA FOR THIS ISSUE.....
JUST MY TWO CENTS WORTH.....
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I have zero problems with the chain on my 03 B12. I set it when I install it and chain slack doesnt change between then and when I have to replace the rear tire. Basically, I only need to adjust my chain once every 6500 miles or so. I use a dry teflon rubber lube that keeps the "O" rings pliable, stops rust, and doesnt sling off or hold dirt/grit. Put the bike on the centerstand, set the chain tension with the adjusters, tighten the axle nut and then lock down the adjusters. Maybe wipe the chain off every month or so with a dry cloth. Couldnt be easier.
Blue