Electrical question on Hot Grips wiring for 2000 600s.

[rbsnow]

Purchased Hot Grips for 2000 600s. Looking for info on circuit  with key for easy access to power for heated hand grips (such as extra open connector somewher in one of the circuits).  Thanks, Bob

[Red01]

When I wired my heated grips, I ran fresh wire. The stock wires aren't the heaviest gauge and I felt they might be borderline for the kind of draw. I wired mine straight from the battery. The only drawback is I must remember to turn them off when I stop for long or I'll come back to a dead battery.

If your 2000 600 is a S model, there should be an unsed connector near the back of the headlight that's there for a marker light most Bandits don't have (I've yet to see one with it - a small bulb between the headlights). You can use this wire to control a relay as it's on the key controlled side of things. IMHO, it's too light a gauge of wire to use as the power supply though.

[rbsnow]

Thanks for help Paul, I plan on looking into finding connector Sunday,  rb

[snofrog]

I am only familiar with heated grips on a sled that has a different type of throttle how do you keep the throttle side wires from breaking from the repeated twisting ?M

[rbsnow]

Avoiding wire break hot grips recommends a 3" loop on the throttle side to eleviate stress. Loop must be located below out of fingers. Since clutch side is fixed this is not an issue. Go to hotgrips.com, they explain the whole mechanical installation.  Bob

[Red01]

That's about how I did it with my Dual-Star grip heaters. Wires come out of the grip at ~6:00 with enough slack to not be stretched at WOT and enough slack in the looms for both sides not to snage during lock-to-lock turning.

 

[jlewis50]

I installed the grips on my 2000 1200 Bandit.
You can run them to the battery and purchase a relay from Radio Shack and use the outlet behind the light to power the relay. This way the grips will not be on unless the bike is on.
In my chase I just used the hot outlet behind the light and ran the grips from it. It is switched and only works when the bike is on.
You are suppose to epoxy the grips to the bars but I haven't done this yet. The are slightly loose but haven't been a problem to date.
The only negative to the grips I have found is that they are as hard as stone. I haven't glued them down yet due to the fact I though I may take them off in the summer and only use them during cold weather.

Joe.

[Red01]

One reason I chose the Dual-Stars is you can run whatever grips you like since they're just an element that goes between the grip and bar/throttle tube.

[Kickstart]

Hi

Not got any on the Bandit. However fitted them to a few bikes. Normally I wire them directly to the battery via a relay, and trigger the relay from the feed for the rear brake light switch (generally easy to connect up, and it it is a seperate wire that you have to splice into then the wire is probably part of the cheap to replace switch).

All the best

Keith

[rbsnow]

I installed hotgrips on 2000 bandit 600s Saturday. Took  1 hour to get old grips off, new grips fitted and then epoxied in correct place. It then took 1  hour to remove fairing, speedo, & headlight assembly. It then took another 1 hour to run wiring harness, wire tied everything neatly, mount variable switch with led on left lower fairing, solder & shrink tube everything. Then it took 1 hour to remount everything and finish wire tie variable switch wiring. Total time was 4 hours and I took my time for a really clean installation. Fairing dissassembly & reassembly took 2 hours which I could easily save 1/2 & hour on and if I had to do it for a friend I could probably do it in 2-3 hours.
     The only issue I ran into is I had reverse polarity when I wired variable switch to open marker connector  in headlight harness near left headlight that Paul pointed out for me ( thanks Paul). I wired hot (red from variable control) to black, I should have wired hot to brown. I noticed this after I turned key on and led glowed yellow with variable switch in off position and grips getting hot. I went to variable control maker website and easliy found out that if wired reverse polarity led light is yellow, wired correctly light is red. I rewired and led is red and all was good.
    Paul felt wiring a heavier gage direct to battery and using marker harnes for relay would be wise. I felt marker wiring could handle load and I am a fairly lazy guy made it easy to just wire diect to marker harness. Paul's way has good merit. I will give feed back later if this was a good choice.
    I went out Sunday for a short run, temp was 50 degrees here in Cleveland and I ran variable control at a little under 1/2 power using midweight gloves and was very warm. I tried full for awhile but was way to hot. Full I am guessing will be good at around 35 degrees. I was worried about epoxy softening (I did use recommended epoxy) and that wasn't an issue. Finish looks very stock and switch installation looks like stock item. The grips are a little firmer than stock and are slightly larger in diameter than stock (my plastic throttle cramp buster is snugger fit, but wroks well). I paid $131 thru lockitt.com (that included shipping) + epoxy, wire ties, and shrink tubing (all from a Home Depot). Total was $140 max and basically a 3 hour install on a Saturday afternoon.
    I feel that is was a well thought out product and installation instructions are complete and with web support allow the average mechanically inclined person to do this safely.

rb

[Seanybiker]

I got the haynes manual for the bandit. I can give you the diagram for the wires on it. not that it makes any sense to me but sure ya never know it might come in handy some day.