Author Topic: Valve adjust gone bad  (Read 11196 times)

Offline terrebandit

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Valve adjust gone bad
« Reply #15 on: August 10, 2005, 09:55:53 PM »
This is the little culprit.



Mine sometimes stick to the head and sometimes they stick to the cover.  I never know what they are going to do.  You just have to keep and eye of them when pulling off the cover.  I usually get someone to take one end of the cover while I take the other.  After lifting the cover up, and find them stuck to the cover, we both slide our hand under them to keep them from falling out as we slide the cover out to one side of the bike.  My kid and I are getting good at it!

Dave
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Offline tbot

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The saga continues
« Reply #16 on: August 12, 2005, 01:01:42 AM »
Tonight I started putting my bike back together. Then it began again, oh the horror! I put the gasket on the oil pan and got the pan bolts hand tight. I tighten the first one no problem. Number 2 snapped right off, and so did number three. Drop the pan again. Extract the weaklings ( I'm using a torque wrench) and start over. This time the Torque wrench is on the work bench, band from motorcycle work......
Well, I'm using a 3/8 drive ratchet and am tightening what I think is the last bolt when "POP!" What, not another one! NOPE, this time it was the pan, hair line crack right across the corner. Ugh! I add a little oil to the crankcase and a few minutes later the first drops form underneath. I'm sick,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, :sad:

Tonights advice: buy an inch pound torque wrench. I bought a ft lb torque wrench. I tested it first and it worked fine, I really don't get it.
98B12, Corbin Beetle Bags, Corbin seat, Napoleon mirrors, Pyramid Belly pan, Pyramid hugger, Jetted, Advanced, Holeshot exhaust and mirror extensions.

Offline Red01

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Valve adjust gone bad
« Reply #17 on: August 12, 2005, 02:17:50 AM »
Sounds like it's time for some JB Weld.
Paul
2001 GSF1200S
(04/2001-03/2012)
2010 Concours 14ABS
(07/2010-current)


Offline Mentalino

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Valve adjust gone bad
« Reply #18 on: August 12, 2005, 09:18:44 AM »
That sux man.....I hope all works out.....keep us informed....DONT GIVE UP! Its a LifeStyle!

Offline tbot

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Haggling
« Reply #19 on: August 12, 2005, 03:43:58 PM »
Quote from: "Red01"
Sounds like it's time for some JB Weld.


Haggling with a guy over used oil pan today. I hadn't occurred to me to try JB weld, thanks for the suggestion.

By the way, took a shower to cool off after my bike fiasco. Went into the kitchen and snapped off the ice cream scooper in the vanilla....it's still there. I went to bed.    :sad:
98B12, Corbin Beetle Bags, Corbin seat, Napoleon mirrors, Pyramid Belly pan, Pyramid hugger, Jetted, Advanced, Holeshot exhaust and mirror extensions.

Offline PitterB4

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Valve adjust gone bad
« Reply #20 on: August 12, 2005, 04:03:02 PM »
Dude - I'm not sure where in the world you are but assuming it's nowhere near me... please stay there until this passes.  Please???   :stickpoke:

Sounds like a night for a lot of these:  :bigdrink:

Hope you get her straightened out.
Rob
Bikeless!
'93 Bandit 400 - SOLD
'98 Honda F3 Track Bike - SOLD
'98 Kawi ZX-6R Street Bike - SOLD
NESBA #87 - RETIRED
'00 Gary Fisher Kaitai
'09 Bianchi Via Nirone 7

Offline RUSS M8

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Valve adjust gone bad
« Reply #21 on: August 13, 2005, 05:39:36 AM »
Just leave the bike for a day, then come back armed with all the right parts, some new bolts that will be nice and strong, a clear head and go at it.  Just think that your bike will have so many new parts - and remember all the good riding you will do in the future.
I did my valves last week, I thought I had a bit of a scare when I dropped the 8mm ring spanner down beside the cam chain, but it came out within 5 mins with a magnet - nothing like you've endured!  I'd never thought about those dowels dropping down inside the engine, will have to take more care next time!

Just remember, It's only a motorbike.
That's impressive,
and I'm not easily impressed.


Look, a blue car!

Offline terrebandit

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Valve adjust gone bad
« Reply #22 on: August 13, 2005, 10:13:09 PM »
Those bolts don't need to be torqued.  Just snug them up and you will be good to go.  If you get a little weeping, which I doubt, just snug them a touch more.

Lesson learned... get one wrench that torques in in/lbs for the small stuff (cam cap bolts, front fork, valve cover bolts - be VERY carefull with those, spark plugs, etc) and a ft/lb wrench for the bigger stuff (Axle bolts, engine sprocket, etc).

Most of the non-critical bolts don't need to be torqued (engine cases, signal generator cover bolts, etc)
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2000 B12S "Good Ole Bob"
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Offline tbot

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update
« Reply #23 on: August 14, 2005, 03:29:02 PM »
For those of you following this story.

Yesterday, I traded in my Ft-lb torque wrench for an in-lb torque wrench. The torque speck I was using came directly from my Hanyes manual (10ftlbs). Never the less, when I cracked the pan, I wasn't using a torque wrench. The bolts just didn't feel tight and I over did it. The usual "maybe just a little bit more."
 
I went out and bought some JB weld. I also bought another oil pan off EBAY for $30 bucks including the shipping.

The JB weld failed on the first attempt. My fault I believe, I messed with it after only 6 hours drying time. Today (18hrs drying time) the JB seems to be doing the job. I'm going to let it set for another several hours before I clean off the excess in the gasket mating area. I am NOT going to use this pan unless I have too.

My new exhaust gaskets arrived. That's why the JB weld pan stays on the bench. I'm not spending any more money if I can help it. I'm assuming that once I mount the exhaust with the new gaskets, I can't take the exhaust off again if the JB weld pan leaks unless I buy more gaskets. I'm gonna mount the oil pan I bought off EBAY (if condition is satisfactory) and get an 8 year old to tighten the bolts. Once the exhaust goes back on, I'll be done.
98B12, Corbin Beetle Bags, Corbin seat, Napoleon mirrors, Pyramid Belly pan, Pyramid hugger, Jetted, Advanced, Holeshot exhaust and mirror extensions.

Offline tbot

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JB Weld
« Reply #24 on: August 14, 2005, 10:13:27 PM »
The JB weld job looks and feels great. I'm so tempted......... :motorsmile:
98B12, Corbin Beetle Bags, Corbin seat, Napoleon mirrors, Pyramid Belly pan, Pyramid hugger, Jetted, Advanced, Holeshot exhaust and mirror extensions.

Offline broncbob

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Valve adjust gone bad
« Reply #25 on: August 14, 2005, 10:54:55 PM »
it's good stuff trust me! if you cleaned it well it should hold like new! i have used it many times and have been happy with it! on the pakage it sayes if fixed a engine block! i have used it many times to put in pulley crank shaft seals on vw engines! let me tell you you have to split the al. seal housing and have it machined out if you want to split the cases! have all so seen it used to repair fuel tank! it is still holding today after 7 years!
i'm to young to go that slow!

Offline land_shark

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Valve adjust gone bad
« Reply #26 on: August 15, 2005, 09:16:33 PM »
Another torque wrench tip (you may know this already.  I learned it here...)  A torque wrench isn't going to work properly if the threads on the bolt have oil on them.  Give them a good wipe, and use an air compressor to blow out the receiving threads.  

Good luck with the cracked pan.  I heart JB weld!!  http://forums.banditalley.net/viewtopic.php?t=654&highlight=
Jason
2000 B12 "Hiro"
2001 KLR650 "Putt-putt"
2005-ish 47cc Cagllari "Balzac"

Offline Red01

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Valve adjust gone bad
« Reply #27 on: August 17, 2005, 11:51:25 PM »
Another torque wrench tip...
For the "click" type, ALWAYS return them to zero or their lowest setting, when not in use. They stay accurate longer that way. Leaving one set above minumum stresses the internals and will make them inaccurate.
Paul
2001 GSF1200S
(04/2001-03/2012)
2010 Concours 14ABS
(07/2010-current)


Offline RUSS M8

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Valve adjust gone bad
« Reply #28 on: August 18, 2005, 07:39:33 AM »
Also remember that when using a torque wrench you will not get accurate readings with any burs (even invisible), or thread irregularities.  This I find is more important that oil on a thread.  Also try to get a bit of a swing going with the torque wrench, just swing and stop when it goes click - if the bolt breaks it needed replacing.  Better to replace it when the bike is apart than have it break whe you ae riding somewhere.  If you are real "woosy" with the T.W. and take little pulls, you can get a false reading - better to start using the T.W. when the bolt is just finger tight so you get a run on.
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Offline tbot

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torque wrench
« Reply #29 on: August 18, 2005, 11:22:28 AM »
The bolts that snapped off under torque broke too easy. I have already acquired replacements. The pan fracture though, really caught me off guard. As I mentioned in previous post, I put the torque wrench down and fractured the pan with a simple 3/8 ratchet handle. Now that I've had time to look at my disassembled bike, I can see that the corner of the pan broke due to rotational force applied while tightening the corner bolt. Weak pan? I don't know. It was the last bolt to be tightened (right side front). What I do know is that if Suzuki had used a separate bolt + washer setup instead of single bolt with washer attached, the rotational stress applied while tightening would have been relieved by the washer. The corner bolts (all corners) I use next time will have an independent washer.

I appreciate all the advice. My new pan hasn't shown up yet. The JB weld job looks better everyday. If Gas prices continue to rise, I may have to give the JB weld pan a shot.  

I will continue to update this story until the B12 rolls out.

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98B12, Corbin Beetle Bags, Corbin seat, Napoleon mirrors, Pyramid Belly pan, Pyramid hugger, Jetted, Advanced, Holeshot exhaust and mirror extensions.