Author Topic: Red Powder of my wife's 600? (Read 3803 times)

Johnny Strommer · « **on:** September 03, 2005, 07:30:22 PM »

Hi follks,

I noticed today thatm there is a bright red dust coating the various surfaces around the primary cover of my wife's 600. The chain has always been very well lubed and has only 12000kms on it.

The dust is not wet at all, it reminds me of brake pad dust or friction plate dust from a car's manual tranny. It's coating the area under the cover, like the sidestand switch, the frame rail etc.

What do you suppose this is? It REALLY doesn't look like rust.

Red01 · « **Reply #1 on:** September 03, 2005, 09:04:09 PM »

It's from the chain. It's telling you a new chain is in your near future.

Bazza · « **Reply #2 on:** September 04, 2005, 06:36:24 PM »

I would concure with Paul, I experianced the same thing with mine and had less miles on it (about 12,000 km). If you look closely I am sure you will find a few kinks and it's probably quite noisy when you spin the wheel on the centre stand.

Depending on how often you lube you chain, your in no doubt near the end of it's life. My friend the bike mechanic tells me he has seen stock chains go at 5,000 km on bikes where people have not maintained them.

dsartwell1 · « **Reply #3 on:** September 04, 2005, 08:02:25 PM »

I had that on my B6 also. I really went over the chain well with a small brush and kero and got it showroom clean. Then lubed the crap out of it. I didn't find any kinks or locked up links. Seems to be ok. Must have got it in time. If you just noticed it clean and lube it real good and you'll probably have some life left.

banditII · « **Reply #4 on:** September 04, 2005, 10:26:08 PM »

You might also pay special attention to your chain adjustments. I've noticed that my B12's chain tightens up even further when sitting on the bike, even though I adjusted it like the manual says ( on the sidestand ). Well, you sit on the bike and then it doesn't have enough slack, the chain is too tight, and I'm thinking this could lead to the chain / sprockets wearing out pre-maturely? The B12's at least seem to be a pain getting the chain adjusted right. ( love my B12 though ).

Warren

ray nielsen · « **Reply #5 on:** September 05, 2005, 12:07:12 AM »

On my 2003 B12 I find the best indicator of proper chain adjustment is that on the centerstand I can push up the bottom run of the chain and just touch the rubber covering on the bottom of the swingarm. It seems like more clearance than the book calls for, but on the road with my weight on the bike it gives about 1/2 - 3/4" of slack. I've had a friend travel back and to the left and watch the slack at speed.

I've also had very good luck with the stock chain -- adjusted it three times, at 2500, 11,000 and 18,000 miles and took up only one flat each time. That's a total of 1/2 turn or three flats in 18 K miles.

I do run a Scott Oiler <www.riderstation.com> and with a more or less steady drip on the chain it probably helps a bit too. I've adjusted it for about one drop per minute -- 50cc in the reservoir lasts about 800-900 miles.

Johnny Strommer · « **Reply #6 on:** September 05, 2005, 06:18:20 PM »

Indeed it was the chain. I suppose the previous owner did not lube it at all, because every link was spewing red rusty powder, and had plenty of lateral movement.

I cut the chain off and will place an order for a replacment ASAP. I may also use the opp. to drop one tooth in the front sprocket to give my girl an easier time lifting the front end!

Thank guys, you're advice may well have saved a breakdown or much worse!!

banditII · « **Reply #7 on:** September 05, 2005, 07:10:18 PM »

Johnny, a lot of people say it's a good idea to replace the sprockets too anytime a chain is replaced so that it all mates together properly. Just a thought :-)

Warren

tbot · « **Reply #8 on:** September 07, 2005, 12:06:15 PM »

Replaced the chain last night on my B12. It took about three hours. The chain was definitely done. The rear tire could not go back any further. The red dust you mention was everywhere and the old chain had several tight spots. I think the dust also has something to do with the front sprocket. As near as I can tell, it was the stock chain at 24K. No, I'm not the original owner.

I spent a lot of time cleaning and adjusting but it was well worth it. The bike is completely different. The suspension hops and skips are gone as well as noise, smooth and quiet.

The hole project cost me $145 ($55 for the chain breaker and $90 for a D.I.D. VM).

Paul for the advice.

Red01 · « **Reply #9 on:** September 07, 2005, 03:35:55 PM »

Quote from: "warren renshaw"

Johnny, a lot of people say it's a good idea to replace the sprockets too anytime a chain is replaced so that it all mates together properly. Just a thought :-)

Warren

Good advice, especially if you want the new chain to last. If there's any discernable wear on the sprockets, they will reduce the life of a new chain considerably.