Bandit Alley
GENERAL MOTORCYCLE FORUMS => GENERAL MOTORCYCLE => Topic started by: mothman on September 20, 2006, 07:38:05 PM
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How much would I expect to pay for a valve adjustment and carb sync at a good dealer.
I could do the work myself I just don't have some of the tools I need...yet.
2000 Gsf1200s
Thanks.
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That's prolly gonna be 2-3 hours of labor, TOPS.
2 hrs seems reasonable.
2 * $65 = $130 ?
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All I know is that I wouldn't be able to afford it. Probably be around $150-200.
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I usually do the valve adj myself but have taken it to the dealer when I was pressed for time. You can expect it will be around $250 at least here in CT. Maybe labor rates are cheaper elsewhere.. Two and a half hours at $80/hr is $200 plus $50 in parts (valve cover gasket and signal generator gasket) Actual parts mail order are cheaper but the dealer always gets a markup.
Not sure on the carb sync - have never had one done.
Good luck
David
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My local dealer has told me about $ 300.00. Thats why he has yet to even touch my bandit.
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you should be able to buy the tools and parts to do the job for less than it would cost to have the dealer do it.
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My brother in law has just the the valve clearance done on his B12, the dealer charged him $100. I thought that was pretty reasonable.
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I am thinking that I need to do some motorcycle work for people. I could charge less and still make good money.
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I think $150.00 sounds about right. :?:
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Most will say 3 hrs! x $57.00 your lookin @ over $185.00 by the time they are done!!! Then you will have to get things to fit, Uncrimp and hook up all the hoses etc that they didn't!!!! :duh: :roll:
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Thanks all. I should go ahead and do it my self though. In the downloaded manual I got here there is a special tool called the valve adjust driver. Is that somehing I will have to have. Also as the manual is vague is there any other special tools/parts that are must haves.
I would like to compose a bunch of information and then we could sticky that for noobs. The reason I need to get this done is that I'm riding to The Blue Ridge Parkway this next weekend and I'm at 8000 miles and time for service. I would rather spend my money on a new front tire( Ihave the new back).
If you all will help I will format that out to a easy printable version. Thanks all and good riding.
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I bought a manual and learned to do the valve adjustment myself. 1000K miles since the adjustment, and nothing has broke yet! :banana:
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Just trying to avoid any pitfalls.
For example, the reason I have the Bandit is because I dropped a socket head down the camshaft of my cb750f. That's when I said screw it, it's coming all apart and I'm rebuilding it.
Needles to say that I bought a box end set the next day.
Ye just don't know what you don't know until you find out!
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You do not necessarily need the OEM tool - just use a square drive screw mounted (screwed) into a block of wood. Use one long enough (2-1/2") and put a little glue on the end so it won't back out.
Also.... be very careful about the alignment dowels found on opposite corners of the valve cover. THEY CAN FALL OUT AND GO INSIDE THE ENGINE RUINING YOUR DAY. They will likely stay in either the cover or the head but make sure you're aware of them and be careful.
Also, try to leave the valve cover gasket on the head - it will likely try to come off with the cover but if you leave the half-moon part of the gasket in the head you won't need to reseal that part. Watch the little o-ring gaskets on the oil lines too. They can pop off and get lost easily. I usually put a zip-lock bag over the end of each line to keep dirt our and keep the o-ring in place. A small ballon works works well too.
Take your time and take pictures of the engine before tearing things apart - that way you know which hose, cable, line, etc. goes over which. I try to set the clearance to the middle of the range using a go/no-go set up of three feeler gauges. Middle one should go - the thickest one should not. Clean all gasket surfaces really well before reassembly to avoid leaks or weeping. Wipe/clean all fasteners of oil and BE SURE TO USE A TORQUE WRENCH to tighten things up.
Tools that will come in handy will be a socket wrench extension (3" long), an 18mm spark plug socket, a hex head socket that is modified to be 1-3/8" long overall (pound out the hex and cut or grind to length - reinsert), an 8mm combination wrench, 19mm & 10mm sockets and a rubber mallet.
Hope this helps.... I just finished doing mine and it always feel better knowing it was actually done and done properly.
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I bought a manual and learned to do the valve adjustment myself. 1000K miles since the adjustment, and nothing has broke yet! :banana:
Oy!!!... you're due for another adjustment after a million miles!!! :stickpoke:
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A word to the wise! If you don't have the basic mechanical ability let one do it! Or get a bud to help!! Its child's play! but can have grave consequences if you strip, or snap a fastener, or leave an item loose,tight, or floating around in a valve train area!! Like the carb sync its simple if you understand it! But if not you can sure make things worse!!! :duh: :beers:
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="amboman"]My brother in law has just the the valve clearance done on his B12, the dealer charged him $100. I thought that was pretty reasonable.
I'll bet they did one like the stealer here did!!!! Adj without taking the cover off!!! Just left my breather hose unplugged and crimped vent line from fuel tank!!!! :roll: :duh: :beers:
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I had my last one done at Southland Suzuki in Orange County and they charged me 160.00. That was the valve adjust and carb sync.
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My local dealer has told me about $ 300.00. Thats why he has yet to even touch my bandit.
That's what they are charging here. That's why I don't let those bad people touch my bike!