Anybody change their own tires?

[orionburn]

Looking at the tires I'm going to be needing a new set for the Bandit soon, not to mention I've still been needing to get the new front mounted on my FZR as well. Since the dealers around here charge damn near $40 per tire (with the wheel OFF the bike!) I'm ready to get my the equipment to do it on my own. I've read about this one in the past and am curious if anybody has it or at least used it before: Harbor Freight

For the stand and motorcycle attachment it would be around $100 + shipping. In about 3 tire changes it will have paid for itself. They have a balancer that goes for another $50 or so, but I've heard there are easy ways to balance on your own without special tools or equipment.

For those of you that do/have changed tires on your own, is there a lot of risk in scratching up the paint on the rims? Is it that hard to do? Is there any other special tools that are required?

In the deep dark recesses of my mind I have this fear that I'm going to do it wrong and have the tire come off while riding  

[Red01]

I don't do my own, but from reading threads of those that do, it sound like using some pieces of an old milk jug wrapped around the tools will go a long way toward protecting finish.

[orionburn]

I wish more of my friend's rode so we could go in together to save some money. Even on my own it's worthwhile. I'm leaning towards turning the FZR into a track bike, and if I do I'll be going through tires a lot quicker and can't afford to keep going to a dealer. It's total bullpucky on what they charge to do it. Of course they can get away with cause you only have so many options on where to go.

[Red01]

The dealers around here are even more rediculous than $40 - but we do have some independant shops around that charge less. The one I go to charges $20 each (carry in/out) for mount & balance if you pay cash and take your old tire with you. There's a Cycle Gear shop that only charges $15 (or $10 if you buy your tire from them), but their store is too far away to make it worthwhile to save $5.

There's a couple of articles on the Net on how you can change tires with home brewed tools and a couple of tire irons.

Mark Holbrook's Tools: http://users.net1plus.com/holbrook/tireeqpt.htm
Mark Holbrook's Process: http://users.net1plus.com/holbrook/tireproc.htm

Adam Glass covers both topics here: http://users.net1plus.com/holbrook/tireproc.htm

[txbanditrydr]

A couple of riding buds went in and bought the H/F changer assembly... it currently resides in my garage and we have probably changed a couple dozen tires on an assortment of bikes.  It needs to be fastened to an immovable object - bolting to the garage floor is an option if you don't mind drilling holes in the concrete.  We fasten it to my pneumatic lift table but a 4x8 sheet of 3/4 plywood would make a great temporary base.

We have learned through trial and error what works and what sometimes doesn't.  The tire holder on the H/F tool will need some cushioning (inner tube or similar) on the 3 rim holders to avoid scratching.  The tire tool itself will destroy your rims unless you use heavy duty rim protectors... OR - pony up the bucks for a "No-Mar Bar" (google No-Mar)... which we finally did.  It's well worth the extra c-note.  No rim protectors are needed when you use that device.

You'll need some wooden blocks to support the wheel when breaking the bead - they keep the discs off the floor and prevent damage.  A ratcheting strap is used for safety in case the wheel pops out of the holder while cranking on it.

While folks claim good success with soap and water for tire lube the best results are obtained with No-Mar's tire lube... it's slippery beyond belief and makes those 180/190 tires slip right on.  Another 8 bucks well spent.

We use a Marc Parnes balancer... expensive considering what you get but very accurate and easy once you develop a system (which we have).  Black tire weights, valve stems, valve core tool, valve stem insertion tool... our kit is getting quite complete.

We don't set any speed records and some tires are more difficult to mount than others.  We get a little anal about balancing and have broken the bead several times and rotated the tire on wheel to use the least amount of weight.  Our real payback is knowing the job is done correctly - rotation arrows proper, balance, wheel inspection and of course NOT having to deal with rude service counter folks.

[dgm0967]

I've done the tire irons and the Harbor Freight. It isn't easy but with a little practice the Harbor Freight works pretty well. You will need protectors and plastic seems to work. I rarely see above 120 mph and static balancing has worked well for me. I just put the wheel on the axle and spin it  and then do the same when the tire is mounted. The first one is the hardest and it gets easier from there.

[orionburn]

Thanks for all the info guys. Figure it'll be rough the first couple times, especially since I won't be doing it on a weekly basis or anything.

Talking about this must have cursed me - walked out this morning to a flat rear tire.    Picked up a nail at some point. Took me a couple of minutes to even find the bugger. Right before I got home last night I noticed turning into a corner it didn't feel right. Got home and smelled like burnt rubber. Knew something wasn't right cause the tire was really hot, but was to dark & late to do anything about it. Luckily it got me home and didn't have a blow out at speed. Now I have to make up my mind on what tires I want to go with.

[speedytriple]

i have the harbor freight changer. it works good. is a bit more work then i thought it was. with a set of tire irons and soap, it is easier. i also use the milk jug plastic trick. i have done about 6 sets. i used bulldog studs. the type you drill a hole hammer in the female part. and use a bolt on top is real stable. when removed there is nothing to trip on as the female end is flush with the floor.