Changing the oil for the first time!?! need help!

[bcganong]

well, I'm changing the oil in my 07 bandit 1250s, it has 10,000kms,  it has normal mineral oil in it now, want to switch to synthetic.  I bought some CASTROL SYNTEC 10W30  API SM,SL,SJ,CF (it was on sale),  I know that it recommends 10W40 with SF/SG or SH/SJ in API with MA in JASO, but is there any harm or problem with using this 10W30 product? They did not have 10W40.  I'm new to this, just looking for a honest answer!!  thanks

[ippo]

I think  it is not for motorbikes,but wait if somebody knows better.For motorbikes Castrol GPS 4T 10W-40 and 15W-50    Castrol R4 Superbike 10W-50 .

[bcganong]

I've been doing some reading and the testing that has been done on viscosity: http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/oiltest1.htm

it seems that the "normal" everyday automotive oil is beating out the high priced motorcycle oil.  I mean, if it's got a SM/SL rating on it, doesn't that mean it's better than an SG rated oil?  maybe I'm wrong, but this is my understanding from what i'm reading.  I'm riding in a climate that stays around 25-30 celcius (75-85 F), so is the 10W30 alright?

[txbanditrydr]

The new generation 10W-30 oils are considered "energy conserving" (might even say that on the bottle) and should NOT be used in a wet-clutch system.  You may experience clutch slippage when using them.  With that said... your owner's manual should answer this question better than anyone else.  If it's listed then go for it... if not, I'd put a few more miles on it until you can find the right stuff. 

[Blade]

The new generation 10W-30 oils are considered "energy conserving" (might even say that on the bottle) and should NOT be used in a wet-clutch system.  You may experience clutch slippage when using them.  With that said... your owner's manual should answer this question better than anyone else.  If it's listed then go for it... if not, I'd put a few more miles on it until you can find the right stuff. 

Also a motorcycle has two other factors you have to deal with. First is the transmission is also part of the engine, this means when you are shifting gears the oil is taking more abuse and it breaks down quicker.

Second, the engines run a little hotter and at higher RPM's than most cars.

That is why the higher viscosity oil. Currently I run mostly Kendall 20w50 motorcycle oil. It is one of the best motorcycles oils I have used in my opinion. The great part about it is that is feel very slick to the touch, almost as slick as synthetic and Kendall is a petrolium base. 

[LowRyter]

Suzuki 4 strokes have been using 10-40 forever.  I usually get Castrol.  They have a line of Synth Dino Blend for less that $20 a metric gallon at Cycle Gear.

I use the 20-50 in the Guzzi.

[pmackie]

Hey bcganong

at couple of previous threads here you can read:

http://forums.banditalley.net/index.php?topic=8913.msg68761#msg68761

http://forums.banditalley.net/index.php?topic=4607.msg34061#msg34061

Although the Syntec 10W-30 will likely work fine, there are a couple of concerns:

1. These engines are in need of higher viscosity (ie: SAE 40 at operating temperature vs 30) due to the transmission. In hot climates, some can make the case for SAE 50, but I personally think its overkill...better for the transmission, but likely too heavy for a high reving 4 cylinder. However, the SAE 30 is below Suzuki's recommendations. SAE 50 IS required in most air cooled twins that operate at lower revs and higher temps. (like the Guzzi mentioned).

2. All SAE 30 products (0W-30, 5W-30, 10W-30) meeting API SL or SM WILL have friction modifiers blended in. These products are NOT recommended for wet clutches.

As other have mentioned, look at the API "donut". You want to avoid oils that have the words "Energy Conserving" in the bottom circle of the donut.