Bandit Alley
GENERAL MOTORCYCLE FORUMS => GENERAL MOTORCYCLE => Topic started by: rocketman1 on December 17, 2005, 06:47:36 AM
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The normal oil for use in a Bandit is 10w40,some guys are using 20W50 in in summer, more power, bike runs cooler
Has anyone got any thoughts on this choice of oil?
PS 2months later...
Hey I found the OIL, Motul 5100 10W-40, I cannot believe the difference, runs smoother, faster, more economical, quieter, and cooler, no wonder all the racing bikes use it. Should have used it ages ago.
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Oh no! An oil topic!!
If you don't fell like experimenting and you like to change your oil at normal intervals. Using Castrol GTX 10-40 will be fine for years and years. HOwever if you like to experiment a bit just make sure it doesn't say "energy conserving" on the back and you'll be ok. Alot of people like Mobil 1 15w50 synthetic, you can change the oil in longer intervals and it holds up better and allows smoother shifting.
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Try these threads (found using the search function) and good luck in your decision. :beers:
http://forums.banditalley.net/viewtopic.php?t=2351&highlight=oil
and another....
http://forums.banditalley.net/viewtopic.php?t=529&highlight=oil
and finally (though there are others)
http://forums.banditalley.net/viewtopic.php?t=281&highlight=oil
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All of the following threads need a parental warning attached...
Oil
Chain vs. shaft
Faired vs. naked
Politics
Religion
helmet vs. skull
I've seen too much violence not to mention it. :grin:
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Mobil 1.
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Mobil 1 15w50, year 'round.
Believe the hype.
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AMSOIL
I've never used it - I just love the controversy!!!!!!!!
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Mobil 1 15w50 Noticably smoother shifting. :motorsmile:
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Shell Rotella 15w40 dino... save your hard earned money. :stickpoke:
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Here we go..... :grin:
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Extra Virgin Olive Oil
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Extra Virgin Olive Oil
MMM +1 with garlic. :beers:
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Extra Virgin Olive Oil
I just use the olive oil havent been able to find a virgin in a while! :beers:
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Extra Virgin Olive Oil
I just use the olive oil havent been able to find a virgin in a while! :beers:
Ah, yes, slippery, but rare! :grin:
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Extra Virgin Olive Oil[/quote
Popeye will hate you! :annoy:
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20W50 in in summer, more power, bike runs cooler
I can't say that it will make more power, in fact a "heavier" oil usually makes less power (more drag and rsistance to the oil pump). Ever so slightly, but still. A thicker oil will also not make the engine run cooler. It will however not thin out as much when hot and thus provide a bit higher oil pressure under extreme heat conditions.
I ran Mobil 1 15w-50 (red cap) for a long time. Then I found the Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40 and never looked back. :bigok:
I was at a Wal-Mart down in Homestead, FL that sold it in what looked like 10 gallon buckets! It is very popular with boaters too, apparently.
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MMM +1 with garlic.
How much garlic ?!?!?!?!?!?! I think a whole clove will be too much. It might burn the valves !!
:duh:
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You can never have too much garlic!
Unless you have to go back to the office after lunch. :wink:
And I have yet to have a problem burning my valve from garlic. Chicken wings are a different sorty, especially the morning after. :shock:
:downhill:
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Manny, how'd the rotella 5-40 work in cold weather? I'm running rotella 15-40 which was great in the summer but is like maple syrup now. at 30 degrees the sump will barely pick it up it's so thick. I have to change it this week, just wondering what to switch to. I left work the other morning and it was 24 degrees, it took it awhile to warm up and get the oil thinned out.
Thanks, Josh
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Great! I rode year round and oil pressure always came up fast.
15W is just too think when over night temps get down to and below freezing. Suzuki thinks it's too think ANY time of the year, which is why it says 10W-40 on the side of the engine.
The cold oil will starve the top end for a LOOOOOOOOOONG time at startup. Long in terms of an engine running w/o oil. It may only be 4 seconds, but by that time (at full choke) the engine will have turned as many as 200 revolutions!
It's know that the majority of engine wear happens at start-up, so you want oil to get going ASAP, so a 0 or 5 weight oil is preferable.
My favorite oil of all time was Mobil 1 0W-50. They only made it for a couple of years and replaced it the 15w-50. I don't know if they actually changed the oil, but sales went way up because the range wasn't so radical to the consumer.
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Thanks for the info, i'll switch to a 5 weight this week.
Josh
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I just made the switch to Mobil 1 10W-30 and my start up time has been reduced a few minutes. The temps in Memphis right now are 30's in the morning, high 40's in the afternoon on my ride home from work. I have not seen any significant difference other than the warm up. Shifting is about the same, I will have to stick with what Manny said on the thick versus thin stuff.
The manual says 10W-30 is fine up to 86 degrees. I should be good until spring hits, probably want to need to change until at least March. I am not planning on riding when the highs are below 40.
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Yeah,
Boy what a change,
Refilled with Motul 5100 10W 40
Better shifting, smoother, alround like anew bike to ride, I would not have thought there could be so much difference in a bike,mighty
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I just this moment decided to try the Mobil One 15w50. Stupid question maybe, but do I just get this at any Mobil gas station, or is it an auto supply house thing? Who's got it?
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Shifting is about the same
I first used Mobil 1 15w50 and was amazed at the results... then I tried Mobil 1 10w30, and did not have nearly as much improvement in shifting, warm up time, or engine heat reduction as I did with 15w50, so I went back to the 15w50.
The cheapest I've seen Mobil 1 is at Wal-Mart in 5 qt. jugs, but it's also sold at just about any auto parts store. (Pep Boys, Autozone, etc.)
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Shifting is about the same
I first used Mobil 1 15w50 and was amazed at the results... then I tried Mobil 1 10w30, and did not have nearly as much improvement in shifting, warm up time, or engine heat reduction as I did with 15w50, so I went back to the 15w50.
The cheapest I've seen Mobil 1 is at Wal-Mart in 5 qt. jugs, but it's also sold at just about any auto parts store. (Pep Boys, Autozone, etc.)
:thanks:
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Mobil 1 15w50 Noticably smoother shifting. :motorsmile:
+1
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Mobil 1 15w50 Noticably smoother shifting. :motorsmile:
My experience with Mobil 1 15w50 is the shifting was notchier than it was with any of the other oils I've tried except Castol RX 15x40 (which was about the same). So far, I've tried:
Castrol GTX 10w40
Quaker State Syth Blend 4x4 15w40
Chevron Delo 400 10w40
Shell Rotella T 15w40
Shell Rotella T Synth 5w40
All of the above seemed to perform about the same, so I usually go with Shell Rotella T or Castrol GTX, whichever one is on sale cheapest.
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MOBIL 1 15w50, TASTES GREAT,LESS FILLING. :congrats:
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Time for an oil change. Let's see, tastes great or less filling :?:
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Oil? Where's it supposed to go?
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You guys use oil?? When did this start happening? No one tells me anything.
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I use a mixture of bacon fat, garlic, Tuscan olive oil, and butter. Makes the shrimp sautee really nicely. :stickpoke:
Oh, in the bike I'm running Castrol Syntec 10W40. NO, it is not "energy conserving." NO, it does not make it shift funny. Oh yeah, a K&N filter.
Max
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Hey, Maximus, what are you smoking? You're supposed to use white wine! :stickpoke:
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Just stumbled on this topic. Boy was I wrong, I always thought you only used olive oil in Ducatis?
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I really love Amsoil. Only problem is its not easily buyable, not sold everywhere, and you almost alwyas have to order it.
It honestly has kept the engine on my bandit and previous bike running a little cooler. I think its a little more expensive than mobile 1, but that extra 80 cents a quart or whatever is worth it to me.
I kill my machine, blaze everywhere and ride at least 4 days a week average over a year( this includes the really cold winter). its just worth the extra monmey for security I guess.
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Well, an oil thread is always full of great opinions and lotsa empirical feedback. This is especially pertinent for me as my first service will be coming up fairly soon for my '06 B12S.
My buddy who owned a '00 B12S for 4 years was a big Amsoil fan but....it only got the Amsoil AFTER it was broken in. He said the breaking-in period actually took up to about 3K miles. Up to that point he ran 10W40 dino oil and was quite happy with shifting, consumption, etc.
I've run Pennzoil 10W40 dino oil in my previous street machines (all were used bikes with various mileages) and been quite happy with it but Mobil 1 has been in the back of my mind if I ever got a new bike. I've got part of a case of Pennzoil still left from servicing the GS so I think I'll use that for the first 2 changes and see how it goes. Synthetics WILL give you that extra edge in protection in borderline lubrication situations that can mean the difference between a munched motor and no problem at all.
Food for thought.....and no pun intended.
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Not to start another "Oil War"...
But there are people who believe that Amsoil caused (or was at least in part responsible) for the pitting of the cam lobes on Bandits.
Do a search.
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normally i use 10w40, normal stuff.. dunno but it's good.
I once filled a bit with 5w40 to make it a bit thinner, but now oil consumption is high.. my guess is the first driver really babied it :sad: at least it still has compression!
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Look up Mobil Delvac 1300 Super. You may just notice that it has the best additive package in the business since it has a diesel rating.
You don't need synthetics on a bike with an oil cooler. Very little benefit in the Bandit because the lighter fractions in the oil won't burn off to form sludge. Save your money.
Energy conserving oils are thinner, which is why there's lower rotating losses in an engine using these light oils. They also don't protect engine parts as well because they contain less zinc. Choose wisely!
Hey, why isn't anyone using toilet-paper oil filters on their bikes? I'm serious: I had one that I transferred from car to car because it actually cleaned the oil, never mind just taking out the big rocks. And, wouldn't you like a 10-20% improvement in gas mileage? T.P. oil filters were used on many VW dune buggies running under the extreme conditions in Baja Mexico (alkaline dust). Those who didn't use them didn't finish. Check out old issues of "Hot VW's" from about 40 years ago. (Yeh, they had cars back then).
Herb
Oh no! An oil topic!!
If you don't fell like experimenting and you like to change your oil at normal intervals. Using Castrol GTX 10-40 will be fine for years and years. HOwever if you like to experiment a bit just make sure it doesn't say "energy conserving" on the back and you'll be ok. Alot of people like Mobil 1 15w50 synthetic, you can change the oil in longer intervals and it holds up better and allows smoother shifting.
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Glad you mentioned Shell Rotella. It's second on the list of excellent oils, right behind Mobil Delvac 1300 Super. Wal-Mart carries it too.
Herb
Shell Rotella 15w40 dino... save your hard earned money. :stickpoke:
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Ok I'm wading in on this too (again) The Bandit being an air oil cooled eng needs a good oil that gets changed on a reg bases. If you are racing with Zemski or Duhamel use the syn, if not we all take a while to put the miles on that make the hi $ stuff worth it. (Syn) Shell Rotella T 15-40 12 TBN is all that it needs! We used this @ work (750+ pcs of concrete etc deliv equip, it was too good! additives were still all there after the 350 hrs we needed to bring em in for PM so we could go with a lower 10 TBN Rimula) Rotella T 15-40 for the Bandit But change it often like every 1k to 1500 miles. Filter is as important I r&r it every 3k. 40k's on the Bandit and it looked better than new inside, where i saw anyway. The strange thing is on my Busa all says got to go syn!! BS the temp is controlled better with liquid cooling and the tolerances are no tighter?? :monkeymoon: :beers: :beers: :motorsmile:
http://www.shell-lubricants.com/products/product_list.php?subcatid=2
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"gyrogearcrunch" Look up Mobil Delvac 1300 Super. You may just notice that it has the best additive package in the business since it has a diesel rating.
You don't need synthetics on a bike with an oil cooler. Very little benefit in the Bandit because the lighter fractions in the oil won't burn off to form sludge. Save your money.
Energy conserving oils are thinner, which is why there's lower rotating losses in an engine using these light oils. They also don't protect engine parts as well because they contain less zinc. Choose wisely!
Hey, why isn't anyone using toilet-paper oil filters on their bikes? I'm serious: I had one that I transferred from car to car because it actually cleaned the oil, never mind just taking out the big rocks. And, wouldn't you like a 10-20% improvement in gas mileage? T.P. oil filters were used on many VW dune buggies running under the extreme conditions in Baja Mexico (alkaline dust). Those who didn't use them didn't finish. Check out old issues of "Hot VW's" from about 40 years ago. (Yeh, they had cars back then).
Herb
"rider123" Oh no! An oil topic!!
If you don't fell like experimenting and you like to change your oil at normal intervals. Using Castrol GTX 10-40 will be fine for years and years. HOwever if you like to experiment a bit just make sure it doesn't say "energy conserving" on the back and you'll be ok. Alot of people like Mobil 1 15w50 synthetic, you can change the oil in longer intervals and it holds up better and allows smoother shifting.
I USE VALVOLINE 20-50 4-STROKE MOTORCYCLE OIL AND I ALWAYS CHANGE THE OIL FILTER WHEN I CHANGE THE OIL.....
I CHANGE MY OIL EVERY 3,000 MILES MOST OF THE YEAR.....AND EVERY 3 MONTHS DURING THE SNOWY MONTHS, WHEN I CAN'T GET IN MY 1,000 TO 2,000 MILES PER MONTH.....
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Did someone say cold winters in Birmingham, AL? Ha! You don't know cold til you've been to Moose Factory.
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[quote="GETFURIOUS]I USE VALVOLINE 20-50 4-STROKE MOTORCYCLE OIL AND [/color]I ALWAYS CHANGE THE OIL FILTER WHEN I CHANGE THE OIL[/quote]
Valvoline M/C oil is the absolute worst crap I've ever put in a motor vehicle.
Did I make myself clear without caps? :wink:
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Did someone say cold winters in Birmingham, AL? Ha! You don't know cold til you've been to Moose Factory.
Good point, I am an ass.
I was just meaning I ride regardless, and really cold ( compared to not real cold in alabama )
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Oops, Ive been a screaming fan of Motul and Elf products, but I must admit to a change.
Reason, a customer on our courier run is a oil distributor, who happens to be based a few doors down the road from my favorite dyno tuner.
He, the dyno tuner now uses these oils and no longer sells 4 big name brands, and I trust this dyno tuner, without reservation. even if he is a yank :stickpoke:
This Oil distributor has offered me excellent prices on oils for the bikes and the working vans, as long as I buy it in 20 litre drums, which to me is no big deal. And it works out at $2.75 per litre. as opposed to $7.50 per litre, in 4 litre containers. 20w-50 for the bikes and 30w-60 for the vans.
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="B6mick"]Oops, Ive been a screaming fan of Motul and Elf products, but I must admit to a change.
Reason, a customer on our courier run is a oil distributor, who happens to be based a few doors down the road from my favorite dyno tuner.
He, the dyno tuner now uses these oils and no longer sells 4 big name brands, and I trust this dyno tuner, without reservation. even if he is a yank :stickpoke:
This Oil distributor has offered me excellent prices on oils for the bikes and the working vans, as long as I buy it in 20 litre drums, which to me is no big deal. And it works out at $2.75 per litre. as opposed to $7.50 per litre, in 4 litre containers. 20w-50 for the bikes and 30w-60 for the vans.
Ok Mick So you found your nectar from the oil god. What TBN? 30w-60 gees does your engine still have leather bearings!!! How long have you used it? Does it come in say 15w-40? Is this like having a family member in the booze biz, where you can get that 300% stuff before its watered down? :congrats: :beers: :beers:
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Yep they sell the whole range of oils synthetic, mineral, and mineral based synthetically fortified, and in a whole host of weights, and multi grades. Fork oils brake fluids etc,
Yes it’s like having a family member in the local bike shop.
The vans run the 30W-60 for the simple reason of being run on LPG fuel, and the extra heat it produces. And for the other factors of, in 1 day shift the van is on the road from 6.45 am and gets shut down at 5.15pm. During the day it gets shut down 5 times for depot unload and load ups, at ¾ hr time periods. For the rest of the time 6 ¾ hrs it’s either running or idling. 20W-50 just can not cut the mustard, with this kinda torture