Author Topic: STRIPPED DRAIN THREADS (Read 3273 times)

Robbieukb12 · « **on:** April 04, 2007, 01:47:44 PM »

I started doing an oil change last night and for some unknown dumb ass reason instead of undoing the drain plug i started to tighten it

i remember thinking this is a bit tight and at the same time giving it a bit of brute force then after the bolt had turned about 3/4 way round then did i then realise my mistake.
I still cannot belive i made such a stupid mistake concidering the amount of oil changes i have done in the past.
I called a bike shop that i have used and trusted in the past and there gonna get it sorted by the weekend
i know i'm not the first and definatly wont be the last

just thought i'd share my stupidity with you all.

Robbie

Red01 · « **Reply #1 on:** April 04, 2007, 02:42:27 PM »

Remember, Righty tighty - Lefty loosey.
Or if you remember the '70's... Right On! (left off)

Robbieukb12 · « **Reply #2 on:** April 04, 2007, 03:38:52 PM »

Paul, never heard of either of them but i like the "righty tighty" one

Robbie

willo · « **Reply #3 on:** April 04, 2007, 06:19:07 PM »

Had same sort of thing happen a couple of oil changes back,thing was the oil change before done by a so called mechanic, over tightend the plug. So next oil change I did it was stripped cost me a $100 Aus to get bike to shop and fixed.. Graham

theroamr · « **Reply #4 on:** April 05, 2007, 11:25:46 AM »

I had my strip out as well. I just took the plug bolt up to auto zone and found another one about .020 size bigger with same thread pattern. Make sure you get out the stripped threads........... It helps if you find one that has a tappered end so it will start a new thread easier. Stick in and tighten it up. Worked for the next 50,000 miles, then sold the bike.

mademiriam · « **Reply #5 on:** April 06, 2007, 05:23:46 PM »

Bought my GPZ550 with only a little rubber oil drain plug as it had been stripped again and again. Didn't have anything in the tab and die set that big. Took it to a garage and they took it to the biggest one they had... Major pain for something so small and non exciting as a drain plug

Robbieukb12 · « **Reply #6 on:** April 07, 2007, 09:41:06 AM »

Roamr i thought about doing that but knowing my luck the one tiny piece of thread that may still be in there would have got sucked up and given me a major headache.
The bike shop called and said they could'nt fix it until next week now after the easter hol's so i thought it would be quicker if i drop the sump(drain pan) myself and take it in.
So i started to take the downpipes off and one of the a damn exhaust bolts snapped off

so i called the bike shop told them and they said it happens dont worry they'll fix it. I had visions of the head having to come off and a great big bill coming my way but i've been informed that it can be sorted out in place

what a nightmare i'm having and to add insult to injury the weather here is fantastic

Robbie

jared1970 · « **Reply #7 on:** April 15, 2007, 08:29:51 PM »

Makes you wonder why they don't put drain petcocks on oil pans with locking pins to keep them from opening unexpectedly and a rubber cap to keep dirt and grime out. Seems like a much better design than using an easy to strip pipe thread. I have a friend that raced a 427 side oiler Ford and replaced the coolant drain plugs in the block with drain petcocks. If it works with in that situation, I don't think it would be hard to make it work in a motorcycle(or car) oil pan. Seems to me like it would be easier to pull a pin and turn a lever to open a valve than fumbling around trying to find the right size wrench or socket to loosen a bolt, and then replacing that little gasket washer every time.

snofrog · « **Reply #8 on:** April 15, 2007, 10:02:17 PM »

I know at this point what I say isn`t going to solve your problem .but what I do because it is easy to get wrong being under the bike . I just make sure I use a ratchet wrench . puting it in the proper direction so that when I put it under the bike there is no chance of tightening it .just a tip from a fellow back yard mechanic

Red01 · « **Reply #9 on:** April 16, 2007, 11:58:27 AM »

Quote from: "jared1970"

Makes you wonder why they don't put drain petcocks on oil pans with locking pins to keep them from opening unexpectedly and a rubber cap to keep dirt and grime out.

My guess is the reason is money. A drain plug is cheaper for the manufacturer. Then there's the job security for the mechanics doing oil changes, since an oil change will take more time. The tool companies make something since you have to have tools to do a simple oil change. Aftermarket companies can make a buck selling valve kits to those interested.

I guess we should be thankful an oil change is as easy as it is... they could engineer it so it's a PIA to change the oil, like in a car's automatic transmission or power steering system (or some of the many aircraft systems).

Dave 02 1200 · « **Reply #10 on:** April 16, 2007, 05:31:45 PM »

If you don't want to go to the trouble of using a torque wrench to get the right tension on the drain plug, just snug it up, but not too tigt, and put a screw type hose clanp around the hex head.

The drain plug can not rotate out because the screw housing on the hose clamp will bump into the fin on the oil pan if it starts to loosen.

Just take the hose clamp off before removing the plug and put it on after you put the plug back in.

It is cheap and simple and it is 100% effective.

Robbieukb12 · « **Reply #11 on:** April 16, 2007, 05:45:21 PM »

Thanks for the tips guy's.
I finally got the bike back on saturday, 1 stripped drain hole fixed and 2 exhaust bolts drilled and time cert and 1 big hole in my pocket

I wont be doing that again.

Robbie

gsxr400 racer · « **Reply #12 on:** April 17, 2007, 11:29:51 PM »

i was always told to use a new crush washer with a new one all the time there is slimmer chance that you will strip it. Secondly the proper way to get a helicoil kit or by a new / used oil pan from eBay.