What do I do when my bandit needs a bath? The carwash?!

[GawainSFO]

Possibly the dumbest question ever posted, but I honestly don't know the answer.  

I'm guessing I don't want to take a bucket of soapy water to it because the soap will degrease parts that want to stay greased and I need to keep all the wiring dry, right? The extent of my knowledge right now is "put gas in it and hope it runs." I realize I need to learn basic--REALLY BASIC!--upkeep stuff. Please be gentle in your replies.

Do all y'all merely use a damp towel to clean your bike? How often do you put wd-40 on the chain (or is that a no-no and I should use something else)? What else do I want to look at when my bike's gotten exposed to dust? How often should I check the oil level, tire pressure, and what the heck else should I be checking?

I realize I should be reading some sort of manual but I bought my 2001 600S used (just 4,000 miles so I guess it's been sitting around more than riding around) and I can't find an owner's manual online anywhere.

Thanks in advance!
G

[mothman]

Yes you need a manual now. I would also sugest you go take a class before you get killed.
Safe riding takes pratice and a good understanding just what makes up a motorcycle.
Don't put wd-40 on you're chain.

[H2RICK]

Like mothman said....
As well, my .02 worth....
NO CAR WASHES EVER !!!! The high pressure forces water into places where it shouldn't be. A garden hose is plenty good enough along with some Simple Green/water mixed up in spray bottle and an old toothbrush.
The engine/exhaust should be cool/cold enough to touch with your bare hand before washing your bike and NEVER wash the bike in direct sun OR if it's been parked in the sun for more than 10 minutes or so. Do NOT/NOT attempt to clean the chain during this normal washing procedure. Chains have to be cleaned with a different procedure, so just forget about the chain entirely for now.
Firstly, wet the bike down all over with the garden hose (gently, just like you're giving it a shower), spray the Simple Green/water mix on the really greasy places ONE AT A TIME, use the toothbrush (or other size brush depending on what you want to get at) and get rid of the grease. Thoroughly rinse (with the garden hose) the area you just worked on and move on to the next greasy spot. DON'T LET THE SIMPLE GREEN GET DRY!!!
To clean the non-greasy parts on the bike, I just use a bucket of warm water with a half handful of powdered laundry detergent well mixed up in it, one of those peanut-shaped car washing foams and a chunk of old towelling for places you can't get with the sponge. Always make sure the part you're trying to wash is nice and wet with clean water from the hose and then slather on the soapy water from your bucket with a well soaked sponge (or piece of towelling) and start rubbing the sponge or towelling to get rid of the grime. Rinse that section of the bike immediately after you've got it clean enough and move on to the next part of the bike.
NEVER soap the whole bike at one go but rather work in sections from the top down and from front to back e.g outer part of fairing then mirrors then inner part of fairing, etc, etc.
After you're done with the scrubbing and rinsing of the various sections, give the whole bike another shower with the hose to get any spots you may have missed rinsing off. Take an old dry clean towel and start drying the bike, again from top to bottom and front to back. You may need 2 or 3 towels to do the whole bike, depending on the size of the towels.
As well, I also keep a bottle of Varsol and some old rags to get the REALLY greasy stuff clean, stuff that the Simple Green just can't clean.....there are always a few spots like that.
There are other types of cleaners available for washing vehicles but I prefer Simple Green because it won't attack paint, plastic or rubber but does a reasonable job on greasy stuff, depending on what concentration you mix it at and how much "elbow grease" you use scrubbing it with the brush.
Good luck with your cleaning/washing and remember: Give your brakes some time to dry out BEFORE you go for a ride after your washing session and also be prepared for lessened braking effect for the first 2 or 3 applications at least after you've washed the bike and let it dry.
Ride safe !!!

[TK421]

Don't put wd-40 on you're chain.

I know the owner's manual says kerosene, but I've used WD-40 on every chain I've ever had (seriously, who has kerosene lying around the house any more?!)  Just understand that it is for cleaning the chain, not for lubrication.  Once you've cleaned it, you need to lube it with something.  There's a huge list of products and opinions on that issue too, but the simplest thing is to buy a spray can of motorcycle chain lube.

An original Suzuki manual might be hard to find, but there's lots of good other ones around, like the one by Haynes.

[00to60]

H2Rick is right NEVER GO TO A CARWASH WITH A MOTORCYCLE. The high pressure spray will degrease an o ring chain and rust it eventually plus other damage that can be caused by the high pressure spray. A mild soap for automobiles and a slow spray from a garden hose will be enough to clean a bike. Personally I clean my bike weekly or so and I don't use running water. Just the spray on type auto waxes (Armuor All, Rain X, and etc.). I apply elbow grease to the hard to clan places around the chain.

That reminds me. I need to clean the flung off PJ 1 chain lube from Friday. Thanks for reminding me.

[stormi]

Possibly the dumbest question ever posted, but I honestly don't know the answer.  

The important thing is that you're asking now.  Not later when something has happened.

I'm guessing I don't want to take a bucket of soapy water to it because the soap will degrease parts that want to stay greased and I need to keep all the wiring dry, right? The extent of my knowledge right now is "put gas in it and hope it runs." I realize I need to learn basic--REALLY BASIC!--upkeep stuff. Please be gentle in your replies.

Degreasing on some parts is desirable.  More grease doesn't mean better.  Things like your chain, etc should be cleaned properly, then re-lubed.  We use the chain lube from Honda here, but a lot of the others will work as well.   I believe there was a thread to this effect in the B6 and 12 forums somewhere.  Make sure that you get a chain lube or wax that's safe for O-ring chains.

As for the wiring, you don't want to spray the plugs, the Regulator, the starter or any of the other exposed electrical or wiring with a really concentrated spray (i.e not directly and definitely not with a pressure washer.)

That said, I do wash both of our bikes with a pressure washer, but I do stand back a lot.  Not to mention that our pressure washer has significantly less pressure than a car washer washer.

Do all y'all merely use a damp towel to clean your bike? How often do you put wd-40 on the chain (or is that a no-no and I should use something else)? What else do I want to look at when my bike's gotten exposed to dust? How often should I check the oil level, tire pressure, and what the heck else should I be checking?

I use a dry microfiber cloth to dust the bike off, (think swiffer)  I have been known to use a "waterless" carwash soap to clean light dirt, but I use a car wash soap (Dish soap will work in a pinch)in a bucket with a sponge to clean most of the bike.  I also use a stiff brush for the wheels ( especially the back wheel  with all the brake dust and chain lube that gets flung from the chain. (Fling doesn't seem to be as much of a problem though since we changed to the Honda lube from the "Chain Wax" that we were using.))

I also keep two sponges.  One strictly for the paint, and one for the rest.  

Get a good wax for your paint, it will keep it shiny, and protect it somewhat.

Think of a bike as washing a baby.  You start at the cleanest parts and  your way to the dirtiest.  That way you don't risk spreading the gunk to places that weren't dirty to start with.

WD-40 is not the proper tool for the job.  Soap, water and a stiff nylon brush will clean the chain.  NOT a metal brush, it will wreck the o-rings in your chain.

If you ride in really dusty conditions, check your air filter more often.  You may need to clean and oil it, or change it more often, (depending on whether it's a foam filter that you keep and clean, or a paper one that you replace)  If the bike is just sitting in the dust, then it just needs a cleaning.

The oil and tire pressure should be checked every ride according to the manual.  I check it often, but likely not that often.  Also, when you check the oil, make sure the bike is standing upright, not leaned on the side stand.  That's not accurate,  Have a friend check while you hold the bike up, or put the bike on the centrestand and push on the front or back to get it as close to level front to back as possible, then check it.  

Check the tightness of your chain.  A chain that's too tight will wear parts (sprockets, bearings, etc.)  A chain that's too loose may jump and usually wad up into the engine ( and input shaft area) or lock up the back wheel.  Often there's a crash to go along with all of this.   With or without a crash, if can be very expensive to fix.  Also check your chain for kinks or obvious damage.  Any of this damage usually leads to a chain breaking, with the above mentioned as possible outcomes.  If you find any of this damage, the chain needs to be replaced.

I realize I should be reading some sort of manual but I bought my 2001 600S used (just 4,000 miles so I guess it's been sitting around more than riding around) and I can't find an owner's manual online anywhere.

Thanks in advance!
G

If you can't find a owners manual under your seat (usually the passenger seat) with the tool kit, then try downloading one for the B12 or the B4.  They will cover the basic things that you should be taking care of and not be -that- different than your B6.

[gsxr400 racer]

Those were the most comprehensive bike washing stories i have ever heard! LOL
cheers

[aussiebandit]

In addition to all the above, I use a furniture polish in an aerosol can - Mr Sheen or similar to finish off - I find it's better than normal car polish as it doesn't discolour the plastic/rubber bits and can be used on all the shinny bits - just don't get it on your tyres.

Don't use Armourall (are similar) on the seat, that is unless you like to slide around alot - warm soapy water is enough.

The other thing I ALWAYS do is take the bike for a quick ride immediately after washing it.  This serves to purposes:

1.   It's a good excuse to go for a ride, and
2.   It makes sure you haven't got water sitting in places where water shouldn't be sitting - carbs, electrics etc (yes I learnt from bitter experiance)

[solman]

I know the owner's manual says kerosene, but I've used WD-40 on every chain I've ever had (seriously, who has kerosene lying around the house any more?!)

You have to be careful on what you use to clean your chain due to the o-rings.  If it isn't o-ring safe, it could eat them up and cause serious problems.

[chupacabra]

Kerosene or WD-40 will both work just fine to clean your chain, and you can use it to clean off the fling from chain lube before you wash the bike. Lube chain after washing bike or cleaning the chain, lube chain after about every 500 miles (every other tank of gas) or more. You don't want to spray WD-40 or kerosene on your brake rotors or pads.

[smooth operator]

Also a bottle of window cleaner works good on bugs. When I get in from a ride,I'm ussally bugged up,so I spray down my bike helmet and jacket  with glass cleaner and get them while their fresh.

[Vidrazor]

This is a great book to show you how to clean your bike:

http://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Detailing-Made-Easy-Tech/dp/1884313353/sr=1-1/qid=1161008279/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1/104-4720346-9811900?ie=UTF8&s=books

As for WD40 on a chain, check this out:

http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/motorcycle-chain-lube/

Scroll down to where it says "UPDATE: WD-40 and Motorcycle Chains". Needless to say, DON'T use WD40 on your chain!

[stormi]

2.   It makes sure you haven't got water sitting in places where water shouldn't be sitting - carbs, electrics etc (yes I learnt from bitter experiance)

It also helps evacuate any water you may have inadvertently sprayed into the exhaust. (you will want to keep water in the exhaust to a minimum as well)  

[Landry]

1) Wash your bike using any good car wash soap.  Degrease whatever you need to with standard car care chemicals.  Dry it with a chamois if you so choose.  I wash mine in the direct sunlight.

2) Check your oil level, brake fluid levels, tire pressure, turn signal operation, headlights and chain tension EVERY TIME YOU RIDE.  Without fail.  EVERY TIME.  Check your idle speed form time to time.  I set mine around 1200-1250 rpm.  The bike should be warm and unchoked when you check this item.

-Check the tire pressure when the tires are cold.  Set them to the recommended pressures on the sticker on the bike, usually on the chain guard.  The pressures on the tire's sidewalls are MAX pressures and aren't the recommended pressures.  Just like a car, you should refer to the sticker on the vehicle (again, not the tire sidewall) for the correct pressure settings.

-Do a search on setting/checking the chain tension.  It's not hard, it jsut takes a little experience to get to know what's right and what's not.  SET THE TENSION WITH THE BIKE ON THE SIDESTAND, NOT THE CENTERSTAND.

The jury's still out on WD40.  The website referenced above is from a guy trying to sell you other products, so I cast a doubtful eye on his view of WD40.  For what it's worth, I don't use WD40 on my chain.  It's a fairly light oil that is commonly called a "penetrating" oil, which means that it has a knack for getting into tight spots.  Can it get inside your O-rings and "clean them out"?  I have no idea.  I did a search for the viscosity of WD40, but I got conflicting numbers, so I gave up trying.

Personally, I clean my chain with kerosene every 500 miles (easy to remember) and I lube it every 250 miles.  I clean/lube after a ride, so the chain is hot.  You can pick up kerosene in the hardware store near the kerosene-powered heaters.  It's not too expensive, and a jug'll last you a while.  I've only bought one jug and my bike's got 25,000 miles on it (I'm on my third chain . . . it took me two to learn how important cleaning/lubing is to chain life).

-Check your brake fluid levels by making sure that the level of the rear brake resrvoir (can be seen through the sightglass in the plastic panel under the seat on the starboard side of the bike) is within the range, and check the brake reservoir located on the right handlebar to make sure it's full (a bubble is usually present in the sightglass and that's okay).

Checking the oil level before every ride can save your engine . . . checking the chain tension before every ride can save your chain (from an early death) checking the other stuff can save your life.

Get a service manual.  Do a Google search for a Hayne's Manual for the year/make of your bike.  It's worth the money and then some, plus it makes for good reading.


I don't know much, but I like to share when I can.

Again, get the Hayne's manual.  It's definitely worth the money.

Landry
 

[stormi]

There's also a link to the Service manual for your bike in the "Members Only" section of this forum.