Author Topic: bandit 1200 cam swap gsxr (Read 39080 times)

03banditn · « **on:** October 25, 2005, 06:36:13 PM »

i have a 03 bandit 1200 with yoshimura full exhaust system, jet kit, and intake removal kit. i want to do the gsxr 1100 cam swap, i have heard the gsxr 750 cams make more horsepower than the 1100s. which should i go with and about horsepower can i expect with the swap. and is it worth it. thanks.

97 bandit · « **Reply #1 on:** October 25, 2005, 07:29:50 PM »

Good question, I would like to know as well. From what I have read the 1989 GSXR 750 cams are the ones as far as choosing a "best" cam swap for the Bandit 1200. Once I'm done blowing money on all this chrome madness I will turn my attention to a High comp-Big bore kit with some kind of cam swap to go with it.

Red01 · « **Reply #2 on:** October 26, 2005, 01:49:33 AM »

Just the GSXR750 intake cam will get you a 4-6 horsepower gain & a very minimal change in the midrange power.
Install the pair and pick up another 3-4 HP on the top end.

2005B12S · « **Reply #3 on:** October 26, 2005, 10:39:30 AM »

1988 and 1989 GSXR 750 motors were the same short stroke design. These are the cams to use-either should work.

1988 GSXR 750 cam data:
intake- .355@248
exhaust- .334@242

These are pretty hot for stock OEM cams. The 1990 750 motor was redesigned back to the long stroke configuration and the last tappet adjuster motor, '91 and '92's were oil cooled but used shims and a dual cam lobe design.

Therefore, 1990 is the last year that will work in the B12 motor.

Full aftermarket cams from Holeshot or Megacycle are available. For straight drop-in anything up to .380 lift will work with stock guides. Holeshot's Stage 1 cams (made by Megacycle) are more moderate in the .360 lift range. Both are in the $400 range.

Ride On, Ed.
2005 GSF1200SZ
1983 GS750ED

Red01 · « **Reply #4 on:** October 26, 2005, 03:25:06 PM »

Holeshot also offers the Suzuki cams. On his site, he doesn't say which cams they are. IIRC, they are the '88 GSXR750 ones. He gets $189 for the intake, $199 for the exhaust, or $369 for the pair.
(And if you mention Worldwide Bandit Owners Club, you'll probably get a discount.)

Bob Holland · « **Reply #5 on:** October 26, 2005, 05:37:42 PM »

I have ran the 89 GSXR 1100 cams and the camotion g21 cams, .380 lift, in my Bandit. The stock GSXR cams are what I dynoed 155 hp with, and I also get a little bwtter ET with the GSXR cams, a little more mph with the cammotion g21s.

kedeg_97B12 · « **Reply #6 on:** November 02, 2005, 05:43:47 PM »

When I bought my cam a few months ago, Suzuki listed the same part number for the 750 and 1100 intake camshafts. I paid $129 from JT Motorsports out of AR.

Keith

97 bandit · « **Reply #7 on:** November 02, 2005, 07:58:31 PM »

You have the 1216 kit? How do you like it? What compression did you go with?

kedeg_97B12 · « **Reply #8 on:** November 03, 2005, 11:30:02 AM »

I went with Dale's 10.8:1 JE pistons and had the head milled 0.020.
I am a little less than 11.3 or so.
I have about 600 miles on it since I did it and I love it. It revs SO much faster and has more power EVERYWHERE. I dumped about $1300 in it because it broke a piston ring at 24xxx miles. So I had a legitimate excuse to hemorage money!

wrecker · « **Reply #9 on:** November 21, 2005, 09:40:00 PM »

Has anyone got the cam spec's for the gsxr and Bandit cams? I have slotted my cam sprockets to degree in the cams and have found that you can't use the lobe center method to degree in the cams, due to the dual/asymetrical lobe profile. You have to base your cam timing off the crankshaft taking the valve opening at the specified lift and reading your degree wheel. Trying to use the lobe center method drove me crazy, til I realized the cam profile. gessh! And the 1216 DW kit Rocks! Unbeliveable power and torque, don't cut corners while the engine is down, 3 angle valve job, port work around the bowl and shave the cylinder head will yield great results.

2005B12S · « **Reply #10 on:** November 21, 2005, 11:58:44 PM »

1988 GSXR 750 cams are:
intake .355 @ 248
exhaust .334 @ 242 Lobe Centers are 104

The GSXR cams can be set to lobe centers. doublecheck your method.

--Make sure valve clearance is correct (some cam manafacturers specify zero checking clearance)
--Find TDC on #1 cylinder using a piston stop
--take your reading at .04 after opening and .04 before closing
--take smaller number and subtract it from larger number
--add 180 and divide by 2 to get lobe center

Example: 49-25=24, add 180=204, divide by 2 =102. Lobe center is 102.

The reason you measure at .04 after opening and .04 before closing is that this puts you past the accelleration and decelleration ramps on the cams and gives you a more accurate lobe center number.

Megacycle published centers are 106 for their GSXR .375 lift cams.

Good Luck, Ed.
2005 GSF1200SZ
1983 GS750ED

wrecker · « **Reply #11 on:** November 22, 2005, 08:09:16 AM »

Thanx for the info. I've been measuring at 0.050 and have gotten some really strange results, due to being on the ramps. I'll try tonight and see what develops.

2005B12S · « **Reply #12 on:** November 22, 2005, 02:41:57 PM »

It does not matter if you use .05 instead of .04, as long as you use the same number for both opening/closing. At .05 you are further past the ramps than at .04.

I checked my notes on my GS750 as it has been a while since I degreed, and valve clearance must be set to zero prior to checking centers. This keeps you from having to compute clearance (.006 or .008) into your numbers and will give the most accurate measurements

Also, make sure your degree wheel is stationary with no play.

I bet your problems are the result of not getting a proper TDC. Without a correct TDC base, you will get incorrect numbers.

MOTORCYCLE CAMSHAFT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

1 INSTALL CAMS USING STOCK TIMING MARKS.

2 LOCATE TDC ON THE DEGREE WHEEL USING A DIAL INDICATOR OR A
POSITIVE STOP

3 TO FIND INTAKE LOBE CENTER, ROTATE ENGINE UNTIL YOU HAVE FOUND
MAXIMUM LIFT USING A DIAL INDICATOR ON THE LIFTER. ZERO INDICATOR
WITH CAM AT MAXIMUM LIFT. ROTATE ENGINE IN REVERSE DIRECTION
UNTIL INDICATOR DROPS 0.040". ROTATE ENGINE IN NORMAL DIRECTION
UNTIL YOU ARE 0.020" BELOW MAXIMUM LIFT. MARK OR NOTE DEGREE
WHEEL LOCATION. ROTATE ENGINE IN NORMAL DIRECTION, GOING THROUGH
MAXIMUM LIFT AND UNTIL YOU ARE 0.020" BELOW THAT POINT. MARK OR
NOTE DEGREE WHEEL LOCATION. THE INTAKE LOBE CENTER IS LOCATED AT
THE POINT MID-WAY BETWEEN THESE TWO READINGS. THE INTAKE LOBE
CENTERLINE IS DETERMINED BY CALCULATING THE NUMBER OF DEGREES
FROM YOUR TDC READING TO YOUR LOBE CENTER READING.

4 REPEAT STEP 4 TO LOCATE THE EXHAUST CENTERLINE.

5 YOU MUST CHECK THE FOLLOWING CLEARANCES:
A. VALVE-TO-PISTON
B. VALVE-TO-VALVE
C. COIL-TO-COIL
D. RETAINER-TO-GUIDE

6 OVER TORQUED AND SLOPPY SPROKET SLOTTING CAN RESULT IN FLANGE
BREAKAGE.

This is from CamMotion, they take their numbers at .02 before max lift and .02 after max lift. Either way will work, as long as you measure at the same point on both sides of the lobe.

Let me know if I can help, Ed.
2005 GSF1200SZ
1983 GS750ED

wrecker · « **Reply #13 on:** November 22, 2005, 11:40:56 PM »

When I was getting the funky readings I decided to start on a clean slate, thinking I moved the degree wheel. TDC was reset using the positive stop method. Thanks for the timing notes from Camotion, I like to back-up my findings with other approved methods of measurement. I didn't get to check my timing tonight, maybe tomorrow. I'll let you know how it turns out.

Bob Holland · « **Reply #14 on:** November 23, 2005, 12:14:27 PM »

If you still get eratic numbers, you may have a bad or stretched cam chain. I had this on a GSXR once, every time you roll the engine over, the measurements changed. After you check a few times, it will be the same as the first time, and then will start changing agin.
I got a cheap 2nd dial indicater from Harbor Frieght that I use to check for top dead center on #1 cylinder. To check for top dead center on the piston, you take a reading at 10 degrees before and 10 degrees after TDC on the degree wheel, and half way in between is TDC. I leave it in place while I'm dialing in the cams, and that way if the degree wheel moves I can tell right away. also if you remove both side covers, you can put the degree wheel on the right side, and turn the engine over from the left, or starter clutch, side and it will lesson the chance of the degree wheel moving.