Bandit Alley
GENERAL MOTORCYCLE FORUMS => PRODUCT REVIEWS => Topic started by: Sven on January 04, 2006, 07:09:06 PM
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I have never used a electric buffer. I was wondering about using one on the bike plastics. A friend loaned me one for cars, but it's way bigger for the small areas on a bike. Is there as small one (like the size of the palm of your hand...or my hand) that would be appropriate? Where woudl you get it? Any thoughts on using buffers?
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Cant beat a good old hand job! tried to get a small hand buffer but there to big still, if your going to do a realy good buffing job do it by hand, works well for me. I had last year wet flatted most paint work and hand buffed, good job done. :bigok:
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I had last year wet flatted most paint work
I don't follow your meaning...
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You use Wet'n'Dry paper, like sand paper but used in the car industry, I used an 800 grade paper and water with some washing up liquid for lubriction to stop it stick and you rub in one direction to remove imperfections and it does remove a thin layer of paint, give you a good surface to polish up. Messy very messy but good results.
Hope this helps! :banana:
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Oh, OK. I've seen the wet sandpaper before (haven't used it but seen it done on TV) but "wet flatted" it wasn't in my vocab. Thanks for the feedback!
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From a guy that ran a successful detail shop I have a bit of advice: Buy 1500 and 2000 grit wet/dry paper. It is slower to remove imperfections but also WAY easier to buff the fine scratches out. Plus it's ALOT harder to accidentally go through the paint while sanding.
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Has anyone tired the Mothers PowerBall? (see http://motherspowerball.com). Sounds like a lottery, but it's a sponge that you attach to a drill and use to clean wheels, chrome, and "tinted plastics". All I want to do it clean up some places where saddlebags and tankbag rubbed the clearcoat and then repolish. Would this act like a lightweight buffer? The wet sandpaper sounds like a process I would use to ruin the paintjob...I have a problem with things not really going as projected.
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That mothers powerball looks pretty cool. If it was just a hair larger than a golf ball then it would be perfect imo. For just small scuffs\fine scratches i just use some meguiars polish\scratch remover, then a good coat of wax. Also buffers tend to make a mess on everything that isnt covered. :sad:
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Cant beat a good old hand job!
?
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If I were to make a suggestion I would recommend that you take Jacknife's advice. One of those electric or even "air" buffers can tear the hell out of any kind of plastic especially plastic that has been painted over. Do it by hand and do it by hand every time. Keep the buffers for your car so you don't have to worry about "control" in those very small areas.
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I can say for sure that those decal removers will scar the clear on these bike...my fairing is getting redone right now due to us trying it on the warning sticker....put about 4 nicks in the clear. :annoy: oh well...it'll be custom painted before it is done if I keep it for any amount of time....all my stuff does.
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For removing the decals i used the Orange Goo Gone with great results. The trick is to let IT do the work. Soaked the decal for ~30 minutes, then borrowed one of the wifeys little semi-hard rubber scrapers and slowly rubbed the decal off. Took about 2 1/2 hours per decal, but didnt leave a mark. Removed both fairing , frame,swingarm and tank decals. Some guys use a hairdryer\heatgun and heat the decal until its soft...then peel it off whole. :thumb:
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3M Imperial Hand Glaze is a fantastic product to finish a buff job, either after a machine buff or hand buff. It does a great job of hiding small imperfections and hairline scratches. Finish it off with some S100 wax and you have yourself a pretty nice finish.
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The "Power Ball" is junk. Chip Foose has lost his mind chasing sponser money. :yikes:
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"Junk" may be too strong a word. I use one on my Jeep's wheels (before anyone comments, I know it's a Jeep and should be left covered in mud) and I'm pretty happy with it. I wouldn't use it on my bike because it lacks the control necessary for tight places that might also be somewhat fragile, but for some applications it works OK. BTW......who can blame Chip for wanting to get rich. In his position, I'd be doing exactly the same thing. :trustme:
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