Recent Posts
51
BIKES/PARTS/GEAR for sale/wanted / Re: PM Racing mags off 2000 1200s
« Last post by mikenj on March 24, 2020, 09:13:45 AM » Will they fit a 03 mk2?
52
BIKES/PARTS/GEAR for sale/wanted / Re: Bandit 1200 Corbin seat
« Last post by mikenj on March 24, 2020, 09:11:03 AM » Interested. I tried sending a pm yesterday but was on my cell and not sure if it went thru. Thx, Mike
53
SUZUKI BANDIT 250 & 400 / Fork Length
« Last post by phoenix on March 20, 2020, 10:00:28 PM »Does anyone have the length handy for the US spec B4 forks? Specifically from the axle bolt center to the top of the triple tree. I'm converting my Japanese import B4 from clip-on forks to risers with superbike bars.
54
GENERAL MOTORCYCLE / Re: Welcome... INTRODUCE YOURSELF HERE!!!
« Last post by doublenaughtspy on March 16, 2020, 02:09:06 AM »I used a "Motion Pro" 4 tube sync tool for years. Ditched it when I realized the reason it was always short on mercury was because the stuff was evaporating into the air in my basement....might actually explain other things now that I think about it. LOL Yes! Get the carbs sync'd. You be glad you did. The early B12s were lean from the factory (EPA stuff) and would turn the head pipe gold in just a couple thousand miles. If you can find a kit with adjustable jets/needles, get it tuned, too.
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SUZUKI BANDIT 600 thru 1200 - AIR/OIL COOLED TECHNICAL / Re: 2000 B12s rear shock swap
« Last post by GETFURIOUS on March 15, 2020, 03:20:42 PM »Looking to swap out the rear shock on my '00 B12s. Read a lot of info here in the forums with much talk about gen1 vs gen2 B12, how do I know what gen bike I have? Is it determined by year? If so, what's the breakdown? Thx...
IF I REMEMBER CORRECTLY.....
1999 AND 2000 ARE FIRST GENERATION 1200 BANDITS.....
2001 TO 2006 ARE SECOND GENERATION 1200 BANDITS.....
2007 AND UP ARE THIRD GENERATION 1200 BANDITS.....
56
GENERAL MOTORCYCLE / Re: Welcome... INTRODUCE YOURSELF HERE!!!
« Last post by stormi on March 12, 2020, 12:48:31 AM »Hey Cincykz!
Welcome!
I don't know anyone who's ever been disappointed that they did a carb sync - especially on a new to them bike.
You could use the $1.55 carb sync tool, and double it.
http://www.powerchutes.com/manometer.asp
It doesn't get much cheaper than that!
Some people I know have used oil instead of water.
Other than that, I'm not much help as all of our current bikes are fuelies or single carbs.
Welcome!
I don't know anyone who's ever been disappointed that they did a carb sync - especially on a new to them bike.
You could use the $1.55 carb sync tool, and double it.
http://www.powerchutes.com/manometer.asp
It doesn't get much cheaper than that!
Some people I know have used oil instead of water.
Other than that, I'm not much help as all of our current bikes are fuelies or single carbs.
57
BIKES/PARTS/GEAR for sale/wanted / Bandit 1200 Corbin seat
« Last post by Cincykz on March 10, 2020, 09:54:27 AM »Hey all, I have a black Corbin seat that came on my 2002 B1200s. I believe it is the gunfighter+lady seat but not 100% sure. It has a flap that opens to accept a passenger back rest (No back rest though)
Very good condition, I went back to OEM for the extra height and softness. For me, the Corbin was a bit too low and quite firm. I also noticed that when I get on the gas, I slide back a bit on it. Not for me, but I guess some people love them. It is pretty and the craftsmanship is excellent.
I see they are $533 on Corbin's site, I would be happy to let it go for $150 plus shipping, or pick up in Cortland NY.
I will try and add some pictures when I get home.
Thanks!
Very good condition, I went back to OEM for the extra height and softness. For me, the Corbin was a bit too low and quite firm. I also noticed that when I get on the gas, I slide back a bit on it. Not for me, but I guess some people love them. It is pretty and the craftsmanship is excellent.
I see they are $533 on Corbin's site, I would be happy to let it go for $150 plus shipping, or pick up in Cortland NY.
I will try and add some pictures when I get home.
Thanks!
58
SUZUKI BANDIT 250 & 400 / Re: B400 choke/starter circuit not working
« Last post by tubular on March 07, 2020, 03:38:06 PM »Hello Benoit,
What is your carb jetting and float height?
In my '89 GSF400 the standard factory jetting (PJ: 32.5 / MJ: 100) was simply too rich for where I live (location: Athens, Greece) even with aftermarket exhaust and K&N air filter. Currently I am using #32.5 PJ and #95 MJ (PS: 1.5 turns out float height 14.6mm) and the starting issues are greatly reduced. My feeling is that with #30 PJ there will be no issues at all. But i am very rarely riding the Bandit now days so I have not verified this to be honest.
Depending on your bike setup you might need to experiment with carb jetting. Running rich (or lean) will affect the engine starting behavior (among many other things, but hey... let's get the engine running first...
).
TIP: before cold starting the bike, you may find turning the petcock to PRI (for a minute or so) to get the carb bowls filled, is making your life easier (especially on cold winter mornings). Just make sure you don't leave it in PRI position after the engine has fired up...
What is your carb jetting and float height?
In my '89 GSF400 the standard factory jetting (PJ: 32.5 / MJ: 100) was simply too rich for where I live (location: Athens, Greece) even with aftermarket exhaust and K&N air filter. Currently I am using #32.5 PJ and #95 MJ (PS: 1.5 turns out float height 14.6mm) and the starting issues are greatly reduced. My feeling is that with #30 PJ there will be no issues at all. But i am very rarely riding the Bandit now days so I have not verified this to be honest.
Depending on your bike setup you might need to experiment with carb jetting. Running rich (or lean) will affect the engine starting behavior (among many other things, but hey... let's get the engine running first...
).TIP: before cold starting the bike, you may find turning the petcock to PRI (for a minute or so) to get the carb bowls filled, is making your life easier (especially on cold winter mornings). Just make sure you don't leave it in PRI position after the engine has fired up...
59
SUZUKI BANDIT 600 thru 1200 - AIR/OIL COOLED TECHNICAL / Re: Bandit 1200 dies when I give it gas
« Last post by Cincykz on March 06, 2020, 10:13:56 PM »Are you leaking fuel out the overflow? Oil or airbox smell fuelly? Could be a stuck float or failed needle seat. Airbox plugged?
60
SUZUKI BANDIT 600 thru 1200 - AIR/OIL COOLED TECHNICAL / Tightening up the Bandit
« Last post by Cincykz on March 06, 2020, 09:19:33 AM »Howdy,
I'm sure this has been discussed ad nauseum on the boards, but I figure a little new life or new opinions could be good.
Only got a few hundred miles on my new 02 1200s last season before the snow.
I've used a few fork braces on different bikes in the past with mixed results. Curious where people land on them on this particular bike. I'm a fairly fast road rider, but not obscenely so. (I spooned on a set of Shinko Ravens over the winter, so 'fast' in the sport touring sense, not elbow dragging). My one ride was on full soft fork and shock settings, I have since dialed in some preload (middle in the front, 5/7 rear, and 3/4 damping on the shock).
Also looking to address the soft brakes. Pads still have some meat to them, guessing probably still the 2002 OEM with 20k miles. Looking to go to braided lines, and thinking I'll keep the 3 line setup for cleanliness, and to avoid rubs and rattles. I doubt the bike will ever see a strict track that prohibits a high break. Anyone stick with the three line setup? Difficult to bleed? Opinions?
Thanks in Advance
I'm sure this has been discussed ad nauseum on the boards, but I figure a little new life or new opinions could be good.
Only got a few hundred miles on my new 02 1200s last season before the snow.
I've used a few fork braces on different bikes in the past with mixed results. Curious where people land on them on this particular bike. I'm a fairly fast road rider, but not obscenely so. (I spooned on a set of Shinko Ravens over the winter, so 'fast' in the sport touring sense, not elbow dragging). My one ride was on full soft fork and shock settings, I have since dialed in some preload (middle in the front, 5/7 rear, and 3/4 damping on the shock).
Also looking to address the soft brakes. Pads still have some meat to them, guessing probably still the 2002 OEM with 20k miles. Looking to go to braided lines, and thinking I'll keep the 3 line setup for cleanliness, and to avoid rubs and rattles. I doubt the bike will ever see a strict track that prohibits a high break. Anyone stick with the three line setup? Difficult to bleed? Opinions?
Thanks in Advance