Recent Posts
51
SUZUKI BANDIT 600 thru 1200 - AIR/OIL COOLED TECHNICAL / Re: 2000 B12s rear shock swap
« Last post by GETFURIOUS on March 15, 2020, 03:20:42 PM »Looking to swap out the rear shock on my '00 B12s. Read a lot of info here in the forums with much talk about gen1 vs gen2 B12, how do I know what gen bike I have? Is it determined by year? If so, what's the breakdown? Thx...
IF I REMEMBER CORRECTLY.....
1999 AND 2000 ARE FIRST GENERATION 1200 BANDITS.....
2001 TO 2006 ARE SECOND GENERATION 1200 BANDITS.....
2007 AND UP ARE THIRD GENERATION 1200 BANDITS.....
52
GENERAL MOTORCYCLE / Re: Welcome... INTRODUCE YOURSELF HERE!!!
« Last post by stormi on March 12, 2020, 12:48:31 AM »Hey Cincykz!
Welcome!
I don't know anyone who's ever been disappointed that they did a carb sync - especially on a new to them bike.
You could use the $1.55 carb sync tool, and double it.
http://www.powerchutes.com/manometer.asp
It doesn't get much cheaper than that!
Some people I know have used oil instead of water.
Other than that, I'm not much help as all of our current bikes are fuelies or single carbs.
Welcome!
I don't know anyone who's ever been disappointed that they did a carb sync - especially on a new to them bike.
You could use the $1.55 carb sync tool, and double it.
http://www.powerchutes.com/manometer.asp
It doesn't get much cheaper than that!
Some people I know have used oil instead of water.
Other than that, I'm not much help as all of our current bikes are fuelies or single carbs.
53
BIKES/PARTS/GEAR for sale/wanted / Bandit 1200 Corbin seat
« Last post by Cincykz on March 10, 2020, 09:54:27 AM »Hey all, I have a black Corbin seat that came on my 2002 B1200s. I believe it is the gunfighter+lady seat but not 100% sure. It has a flap that opens to accept a passenger back rest (No back rest though)
Very good condition, I went back to OEM for the extra height and softness. For me, the Corbin was a bit too low and quite firm. I also noticed that when I get on the gas, I slide back a bit on it. Not for me, but I guess some people love them. It is pretty and the craftsmanship is excellent.
I see they are $533 on Corbin's site, I would be happy to let it go for $150 plus shipping, or pick up in Cortland NY.
I will try and add some pictures when I get home.
Thanks!
Very good condition, I went back to OEM for the extra height and softness. For me, the Corbin was a bit too low and quite firm. I also noticed that when I get on the gas, I slide back a bit on it. Not for me, but I guess some people love them. It is pretty and the craftsmanship is excellent.
I see they are $533 on Corbin's site, I would be happy to let it go for $150 plus shipping, or pick up in Cortland NY.
I will try and add some pictures when I get home.
Thanks!
54
SUZUKI BANDIT 250 & 400 / Re: B400 choke/starter circuit not working
« Last post by tubular on March 07, 2020, 03:38:06 PM »Hello Benoit,
What is your carb jetting and float height?
In my '89 GSF400 the standard factory jetting (PJ: 32.5 / MJ: 100) was simply too rich for where I live (location: Athens, Greece) even with aftermarket exhaust and K&N air filter. Currently I am using #32.5 PJ and #95 MJ (PS: 1.5 turns out float height 14.6mm) and the starting issues are greatly reduced. My feeling is that with #30 PJ there will be no issues at all. But i am very rarely riding the Bandit now days so I have not verified this to be honest.
Depending on your bike setup you might need to experiment with carb jetting. Running rich (or lean) will affect the engine starting behavior (among many other things, but hey... let's get the engine running first...
).
TIP: before cold starting the bike, you may find turning the petcock to PRI (for a minute or so) to get the carb bowls filled, is making your life easier (especially on cold winter mornings). Just make sure you don't leave it in PRI position after the engine has fired up...
What is your carb jetting and float height?
In my '89 GSF400 the standard factory jetting (PJ: 32.5 / MJ: 100) was simply too rich for where I live (location: Athens, Greece) even with aftermarket exhaust and K&N air filter. Currently I am using #32.5 PJ and #95 MJ (PS: 1.5 turns out float height 14.6mm) and the starting issues are greatly reduced. My feeling is that with #30 PJ there will be no issues at all. But i am very rarely riding the Bandit now days so I have not verified this to be honest.
Depending on your bike setup you might need to experiment with carb jetting. Running rich (or lean) will affect the engine starting behavior (among many other things, but hey... let's get the engine running first...
).TIP: before cold starting the bike, you may find turning the petcock to PRI (for a minute or so) to get the carb bowls filled, is making your life easier (especially on cold winter mornings). Just make sure you don't leave it in PRI position after the engine has fired up...
55
SUZUKI BANDIT 600 thru 1200 - AIR/OIL COOLED TECHNICAL / Re: Bandit 1200 dies when I give it gas
« Last post by Cincykz on March 06, 2020, 10:13:56 PM »Are you leaking fuel out the overflow? Oil or airbox smell fuelly? Could be a stuck float or failed needle seat. Airbox plugged?
56
SUZUKI BANDIT 600 thru 1200 - AIR/OIL COOLED TECHNICAL / Tightening up the Bandit
« Last post by Cincykz on March 06, 2020, 09:19:33 AM »Howdy,
I'm sure this has been discussed ad nauseum on the boards, but I figure a little new life or new opinions could be good.
Only got a few hundred miles on my new 02 1200s last season before the snow.
I've used a few fork braces on different bikes in the past with mixed results. Curious where people land on them on this particular bike. I'm a fairly fast road rider, but not obscenely so. (I spooned on a set of Shinko Ravens over the winter, so 'fast' in the sport touring sense, not elbow dragging). My one ride was on full soft fork and shock settings, I have since dialed in some preload (middle in the front, 5/7 rear, and 3/4 damping on the shock).
Also looking to address the soft brakes. Pads still have some meat to them, guessing probably still the 2002 OEM with 20k miles. Looking to go to braided lines, and thinking I'll keep the 3 line setup for cleanliness, and to avoid rubs and rattles. I doubt the bike will ever see a strict track that prohibits a high break. Anyone stick with the three line setup? Difficult to bleed? Opinions?
Thanks in Advance
I'm sure this has been discussed ad nauseum on the boards, but I figure a little new life or new opinions could be good.
Only got a few hundred miles on my new 02 1200s last season before the snow.
I've used a few fork braces on different bikes in the past with mixed results. Curious where people land on them on this particular bike. I'm a fairly fast road rider, but not obscenely so. (I spooned on a set of Shinko Ravens over the winter, so 'fast' in the sport touring sense, not elbow dragging). My one ride was on full soft fork and shock settings, I have since dialed in some preload (middle in the front, 5/7 rear, and 3/4 damping on the shock).
Also looking to address the soft brakes. Pads still have some meat to them, guessing probably still the 2002 OEM with 20k miles. Looking to go to braided lines, and thinking I'll keep the 3 line setup for cleanliness, and to avoid rubs and rattles. I doubt the bike will ever see a strict track that prohibits a high break. Anyone stick with the three line setup? Difficult to bleed? Opinions?
Thanks in Advance
57
GENERAL MOTORCYCLE / Re: Welcome... INTRODUCE YOURSELF HERE!!!
« Last post by Cincykz on March 06, 2020, 08:36:50 AM »I see this thread is pretty old, but...
Picked up a blue 2002 Bandit 1200s at the very end of last riding season, 21k miles. Overall pretty nice, just needed a few things. Tires (I tried Shinko Ravens because it came with a new one unmounted), and a too loud Yosh TRS slip-on. It turned out that it was gutted and put together with open center rivets, thus the poor/loud sound. Rebuilt with the kit from Yosh and also added the quiet core, sounds way better.
I also checked the valves, only 1 exhaust not right in the middle. Removed the PAIR stuff because it's such a nightmare to work around. Also put some weatherstripping between the fairing panels and screen to try and reduce vibes.
Haven't opened the carbs, guess I probably should, as the muffler didn't give me too much confidence regarding modifications made in the past. Bike has a new OEM air filter and snorkel. Also thinking about a carb sync, I've been pondering buying the four vacuum gauge. If anyone has a cheap one they're happy with, I would take recommendations.
I'm in the Central NY area, patiently awaiting spring. Also have a DR650, a naked gs500 that's set up pretty sporty for track/gymkhana type riding, and a '79 kz650. Past bikes have been a TW200, klx250, zx12r, vstrom650, another Dr, intruder 1400, and a Vulcan 2000, and probably a few others.
I'm a sport bike guy at heart, but try and stay on more reasonable bikes at this point...
Anyway, thanks for the add!
Picked up a blue 2002 Bandit 1200s at the very end of last riding season, 21k miles. Overall pretty nice, just needed a few things. Tires (I tried Shinko Ravens because it came with a new one unmounted), and a too loud Yosh TRS slip-on. It turned out that it was gutted and put together with open center rivets, thus the poor/loud sound. Rebuilt with the kit from Yosh and also added the quiet core, sounds way better.
I also checked the valves, only 1 exhaust not right in the middle. Removed the PAIR stuff because it's such a nightmare to work around. Also put some weatherstripping between the fairing panels and screen to try and reduce vibes.
Haven't opened the carbs, guess I probably should, as the muffler didn't give me too much confidence regarding modifications made in the past. Bike has a new OEM air filter and snorkel. Also thinking about a carb sync, I've been pondering buying the four vacuum gauge. If anyone has a cheap one they're happy with, I would take recommendations.
I'm in the Central NY area, patiently awaiting spring. Also have a DR650, a naked gs500 that's set up pretty sporty for track/gymkhana type riding, and a '79 kz650. Past bikes have been a TW200, klx250, zx12r, vstrom650, another Dr, intruder 1400, and a Vulcan 2000, and probably a few others.
I'm a sport bike guy at heart, but try and stay on more reasonable bikes at this point...
Anyway, thanks for the add!
58
SUZUKI BANDIT 250 & 400 / Re: B400 choke/starter circuit not working
« Last post by bdouvill on March 04, 2020, 06:02:44 AM »Hi again,
I like life because there's always a way to learn something new everyday ;-)
Since my carbs don't seem to be clogged - see my previous post - I started to ask myself if I was 100% sure about how to use choke. For years, my bike slept in an underground garage where the temperature never went under 12degC (around 54degF). So everyday for years, I started my bike with no choke and the throttle slightly open (like 10 to 20%). Now, all my 3 bikes sleep outside under covers and it's regularly freezing (slightly) these days, even on the French Riviera.
So I googled this morning and found out that:
"Lots of more modern carburetors have an “enrichment circuit.” This is a special circuit within the carburetor that is only opened for starting. In order for the fuel in this type of carburetor to be drawn into the cylinders, leave the throttle shut completely when starting, or this circuit will be bypassed totally."
Full source is here:
https://www.revzilla.com/common-tread/how-to-start-a-carbureted-motorcycle
I am pretty sure that during my last attempts to use this bike back to last summer, I tried mostly with choke on+ throttle wide open but never with choke on and throttle closed so I just learned that this was pretty dumb :-(
But you learn more valuable lessons from your errors than from easy wins.
This still has to be validated with real experiment - which will happen as soon as time permits. The only time I really used it was back in September when I used it to go to work. Outside temperature was 25degC at least (77degF). So I parked it a 02:00PM and when I tried to start it again at 06:00PM, I had a hard time starting it again. In comparison, it always started days in, days out for 3.5 years prior to that, which is still a mystery to me...
Also in comparison, my VFR750 starts without any problem everyday, either with choke on and no throttle or with throttle slightly open.
I'll pay close attention to the pilot jet(s) settings to start with. I understand this will have an impact on cold start as well. Then I can still use my Colortune to fine tune them individually.
I'll keep you posted on my progress.
I like life because there's always a way to learn something new everyday ;-)
Since my carbs don't seem to be clogged - see my previous post - I started to ask myself if I was 100% sure about how to use choke. For years, my bike slept in an underground garage where the temperature never went under 12degC (around 54degF). So everyday for years, I started my bike with no choke and the throttle slightly open (like 10 to 20%). Now, all my 3 bikes sleep outside under covers and it's regularly freezing (slightly) these days, even on the French Riviera.
So I googled this morning and found out that:
"Lots of more modern carburetors have an “enrichment circuit.” This is a special circuit within the carburetor that is only opened for starting. In order for the fuel in this type of carburetor to be drawn into the cylinders, leave the throttle shut completely when starting, or this circuit will be bypassed totally."
Full source is here:
https://www.revzilla.com/common-tread/how-to-start-a-carbureted-motorcycle
I am pretty sure that during my last attempts to use this bike back to last summer, I tried mostly with choke on+ throttle wide open but never with choke on and throttle closed so I just learned that this was pretty dumb :-(
But you learn more valuable lessons from your errors than from easy wins.
This still has to be validated with real experiment - which will happen as soon as time permits. The only time I really used it was back in September when I used it to go to work. Outside temperature was 25degC at least (77degF). So I parked it a 02:00PM and when I tried to start it again at 06:00PM, I had a hard time starting it again. In comparison, it always started days in, days out for 3.5 years prior to that, which is still a mystery to me...
Also in comparison, my VFR750 starts without any problem everyday, either with choke on and no throttle or with throttle slightly open.
I'll pay close attention to the pilot jet(s) settings to start with. I understand this will have an impact on cold start as well. Then I can still use my Colortune to fine tune them individually.
I'll keep you posted on my progress.
59
SUZUKI BANDIT 250 & 400 / Re: B400 choke/starter circuit not working
« Last post by bdouvill on March 03, 2020, 12:04:54 PM »Hello again and thanks a lot for your answers.
So I dismantled the carbs - again, sounds like I did it a million times...
I did not find how to integrate the pictures in attachment in the text (...) but here it is. When spraying WD40 under pressure with the long tube coming with the WD40 can directly on top into the tube coming from the bottom - where the starter plunger sits (RED Arrow in the pic), WD40 comes out of the other side (YELLOW pic) so I guess it is not clogged. Same for all 4 carbs.
I let WD40 inside the circuit for 24h.
So all I can do is to mount everything back with great care and cross fingers. Will try to put at least 3 to 3.5 turns on the pilot screws because everyone knows factory setting is a joke. Changing needle position should not help in my situation (this has always been the default position) because it is not supposed to affect closed throttle position.
I keep you posted later.
So I dismantled the carbs - again, sounds like I did it a million times...
I did not find how to integrate the pictures in attachment in the text (...) but here it is. When spraying WD40 under pressure with the long tube coming with the WD40 can directly on top into the tube coming from the bottom - where the starter plunger sits (RED Arrow in the pic), WD40 comes out of the other side (YELLOW pic) so I guess it is not clogged. Same for all 4 carbs.
I let WD40 inside the circuit for 24h.
So all I can do is to mount everything back with great care and cross fingers. Will try to put at least 3 to 3.5 turns on the pilot screws because everyone knows factory setting is a joke. Changing needle position should not help in my situation (this has always been the default position) because it is not supposed to affect closed throttle position.
I keep you posted later.
60
SUZUKI BANDIT 600 thru 1200 - AIR/OIL COOLED TECHNICAL / 2000 B12s rear shock swap
« Last post by JerseyDog on February 29, 2020, 01:24:40 PM »Looking to swap out the rear shock on my '00 B12s. Read a lot of info here in the forums with much talk about gen1 vs gen2 B12, how do I know what gen bike I have? Is it determined by year? If so, what's the breakdown? Thx...