Bandit Alley
FAQ TOPICS => SUZUKI BANDIT 250/400 FAQ => Topic started by: PitterB4 on April 25, 2005, 11:04:36 PM
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Well, I decided that my small valve cover gasket leak isn't going to fix itself :roll: so, I bought a new gasket. While I have the cover off, I'm going to check my valves. I have a manual and am smart enough (I think) to follow the steps. Although I helped a friend do it once (on a twin), I'm looking for any hints or things to be careful of when tackling this myself for the first time.
The one specific question I have is do I have to buy the special Suz tool or is it something my local shop might have or can get (I have a feeler guage set)?
Thanks! :bigok:
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I found the valve adjuster driver handy. It was only $5 bucks. You might be able to get away with using something else, but its time consuming enough with the right tools. I also ended up bending my thickness gauges on an angle something like this "_/". I found it made adjusting the valves a little be easier.
Don't forget the manual calls for RTV sealant on the four cam end caps.
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And the dumb questions just keep on comin'...
For the driver/tool... I don't have a Suz shop close. Is this something that I can get at Sears or Autozone? If so, what do I ask for? Size?
I'm sure the Manual addresses this but when I remover the cover, do I have to disconnect all the cables? If I have to take off that f-ing throttle cable, I'm gonna kill someone!!!! :duh:
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I did this job for the first time last fall, and I didn't find it very difficult if you realize that it's going to take a while and don't try to rush. I was able to do it with a regular wrench to tighten and loosen the locking nuts and a teeny tiny wrench ( like 4 or 5 mm or something like that, sorry I don't remember the size ) to turn the shaft. I am planning on getting the special tool before I do it again, but it certainly isn't something you NEED.
BTW, don't confuse the intake and exhaust sides and adjust the clearances wrong, or you will put everything back together and it will run like crap, and then the clouds will part, and like a vision from above you will realize what you have done, then you will curse a lot and do it all over again.
Don't ask how I know this. :banghead:
Steve
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It's basically a small square socket. Its aproxmately 3.5 mm in size. I think Red01 mentioned being able to make your own using a robertson (square drive) screw. It looks very similar to the head of a #8 robertson screw.
You should be able to get the cover off with the cables on. You will need to remove the rad though.
Here's the trick I use for installing the throttle cable on the carbs. I put a little bit of grease on the cable end. When the cable end goes in sideways, all you have to do LIGHTLY twist the throttle and the cable end should snap into place. Keyword is lightly, the throttle tube is plastic and can break.
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Make a table for adj of the intake and exhaust for the 2 different cam position and record the valve clearance reading it will help you to adjust the correct valve. I cam email the table which I made for doing my valve clearance.
I did not remeove my throttle cable from the carb, I just remove the end on the handle bar and bring it to the side without obstructing the cam cover.
For the tool, I just use a 8mm ring spanner to loosen the locknut and a small little pliers to turn/hold the adjuster. You just have to tighten the lock nut snugly do not overtighten it as it may strip the threads.
You may want to apply the high temp RTV sealant all over the gasket because my frens cover leaks after a week when we follow the manual to apply sealant on the new gasket at the 4 cam ends.
Tighten the cam cover bolts snugly from outside to inside, do not overtighten these bolts.
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Thanks, all! Bandit, I'd love to see your table - pitter29[at]yahoo[dot]com.
I was thinking that I could just pull the right bar (I have clipons) to give me clearance under the throttle cable.
I got the tank and rad pulled tonight. So far so good.
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Thanks, all! Bandit, I'd love to see your table - pitter29[at]yahoo[dot]com.
I was thinking that I could just pull the right bar (I have clipons) to give me clearance under the throttle cable.
I got the tank and rad pulled tonight. So far so good.
I just send you the table, you may need to change the valve clearance spec to suit your application because I'm riding a 1993 GSF400P
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OK... I have the cover off. A few questions:
* What is Normal Running Direction for turning the motor (which way do I turn the bolt)?
* I'm sure I'm being stupid but, WTF are the notches I need to line up?
* What's the best way to clean off the old sealant?
I think that's it... for now. Thanks so much fellas! Just as I decided to try to pull this off myself, my best friend who is a good wrench got called oversees for a week! Thanks again!!!! :beers:
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1. Spins in the same directions as the wheels normally do when you ride it.
2. Don't know the 400, but on the bigger ones, there's a notch in the end of the cams - it's obvious on the big ones.
3. Platic scraper, fingernails or anything softer than the surface you're working on.
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OK... I have the cover off. A few questions:
* What is Normal Running Direction for turning the motor (which way do I turn the bolt)?
Clockwise, the same direction as the back tire. (If it makes a awful clicking sound, you're turning it the wrong direction...)
* I'm sure I'm being stupid but, WTF are the notches I need to line up?
Little notchs on the side of the cams. Reference (2-6, 3-58) Hard to see but they're there. Once you start turning the engine you'll see them.
* What's the best way to clean off the old sealant?
I took a shop towel and rubbed it off... came off pretty easy without any solvents. If that didn't work I would have tried a shop towel with petrol. The key thing is don't scratch up the surface. Somebody else might have a better suggestion.
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OK... I have the cover off. A few questions:
* What is Normal Running Direction for turning the motor (which way do I turn the bolt)?
* I'm sure I'm being stupid but, WTF are the notches I need to line up?
* What's the best way to clean off the old sealant?
I think that's it... for now. Thanks so much fellas! Just as I decided to try to pull this off myself, my best friend who is a good wrench got called oversees for a week! Thanks again!!!! :beers:
1-generaly always away from the cam chain tensioner
2-fook the noches- after the intake opens the valve and close's it line up both intake and exhaust lobes about 45 degrees from the valve cover surface or even better yet if the lobe is sticking straight up you can adjust that valve.
3-alittle carb cleaner on a shop rage works great.
I adjust mine every other race weekend , or check them atleast tight valves will give you a low compression reading also.
did mine a week ago , and today at the shop i adjusted the valves on a 1967 CL 350 honda twin. Wanna talk about points too?
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OK... I have the cover off. A few questions:
* What is Normal Running Direction for turning the motor (which way do I turn the bolt)?
If you are turning the cam shaft from the clutch cover side turn it clockwise, if you are turning from the signal generator side, turn it anticlockwise. You will need a 17mm wrench to turn.
* I'm sure I'm being stupid but, WTF are the notches I need to line up?
The notches are at the end of the cam shaft on the right side, you need to remove the cam cover gasket to see it.
* What's the best way to clean off the old sealant?
I use my finger nails, shop towel and blunt flat blade screw driver gently so as not to make any scratches on the mating surface.
I think that's it... for now. Thanks so much fellas! Just as I decided to try to pull this off myself, my best friend who is a good wrench got called oversees for a week! Thanks again!!!! :beers:
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Thanks again, everyone. I was searching for the notches on the sprockets! :duh:
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Well, even a few gins into the night, the adjustments were pretty easy! I'm glad I didn't buy a tool. No sweat without it. All the intakes were tight as was one exhaust. Now, I just have to worry about getting the gasket on right. My biggest fear is getting all that shyte back on and having a leak.
You guys rock. Thanks for all the help! :thanks:
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Hey Rob!
Glad to hear that went well, I may be doing all that in the near future. This thread will be a great resource when I'm looking in there and am all confused. (guaranteed to happen!)
My bike has been in the shop for 2 WEEKS getting the valve cover gasket replaced. Whomever did it before pinched the gasket so it was weeping a little. The mechanic said I just have to check my oil regularly, but I'd rather have it right! But, 2 weeks of great weather is GONE!! I'm jones'n BAD.:banghead:
They are also doing the head bearing. On a bicycle, those are adjustable so you can remove slop as they wear, but this thing was WAY bad, clunking when I pulled up to any stop. (unless I stop slowly with the back brake).