once you have all these out
Your collection from the top should be 4 tops 4 diaphragms 4 needles and 4 orings that go to the carb tops.
once thats done the top of the carbs should look like this
Then you will take all these off the
float bowlsAnd you will be looking at this. the float assemblies which they are what has the culprit o-rings 1 small and 1 larger and holds the float needles and how you adjust your float height. They just wiggle and pull out just held in by a bit of pressure.
this is what they look like when they are all out.
next you will take the main jets out. the big brass slotted screw type thing has a number on it. this is your main jet size.should be beside a black rubber plug that plugs up the pilot jet hole , down in the hole wit a fine flat blade screw driver you will be able to unloosen the pilot jet , lefty loosy, push hard when turning for stuck ones some tend to be tight and stuck and may round off.
so go at it with your man pants on. If you don't have the plugs which most b4's do you need to get them or refer to a manual specifically of your bike and check your numbers on the carbs as all i know is that the gsxr 400 doesn't have them but the bandit does. The bandit feeds the slow jet/pilot circuit from the main jet via a passage near the needle jet/emulsion tube area. where as the gsxr 400 gk73a get its fuel separately through its own circuit? Is one better than the other? Your guess is as good as mine but i prefer less parts to go bad hence the gsxr carbs would be my choice if going all stock.
Now back to the tops of the carbs once you have all that out!!
You will need to take these parts out they just push out and there is some important orings under there. You may have to push the emulsion tube out from where you just took the main jet out off i use the back side f a drill bit that fit nice in the whole so i don't mess the threads of the emulsion tube up.
(screw up I once used a Phillips left real nice marks in the emulsion tube had to replace that)the pilot jets look like this
these are the buggers that clog up with sediment from the tank and cause bad idling a dropped cylinder always go to them first for problems if in the carb. OK back to the
emulsion tubes they just need dipped in a gallon pal of carb dip from the auto parts store along with the pilot jets and mains then hosed hosed of with aerosol carb cleaner to make sure you see carb cleaner squirt out of all the orifices of the carbs and jets and sprays the out side of the carbs off as well i usually use 2 cans per carb bank ( set of 4)
On the bottom of the carbs where the float chamber is at there will be your fuel screws some have a little plug over then look like a freeze plug drill through them lightly
(if not sure where they are ask some who know before drilling away) With in that orifice you will find these
When you put them back in the load the screw up spring first little metal washer then the o-ring and set to what the manual says most all carbs are any where from 1 1/2 to 2 1/2. screw them in lightly as this is a metering devise and the hole would not be hogged out by you turning like
hulk-a-mania is running wild. Also same with drilling your not going through brick or seven layers of plywood so easy cause if you push to far you will screw the screw in real tight with the drill
you have made it this far one other thing you should check is this little pipe it has a tendency to break as well
this is what you should be getting so you don't have to worry about your carbs
And new rubber plugs if you need then the good thing is gs550's and a ton of older gsxr's used the same stuff in there carbs.
I like to used seal grease silicone based stuff for applying my orings so they slide on and into place real easy the stuff is better known as die-electric grease or plug wire boot grease. sorta clear-ish white.
Hope this helps some out As many of us have answered the same questions for years and there is some good info on here and maybe i still didn't cover it all but together maybe it all makes perfect sense.
cheers
Jay