Author Topic: (Stripping the Engine...) VVC Valve Clearance Adjustment  (Read 10628 times)

Offline Wudy

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Re: Stripping the Engine...
« Reply #15 on: February 19, 2010, 01:16:48 PM »
Cheers for the post, it's variable inlet and exhaust.
I've just been working on it for a bit this morning and I've got the marks on the end of the cams lined up (exhaust cam was just one sprocket out). However, I don't think the numbers are pointing as you describe with the timing mark lined up. I've got some photos that I'll post up later tonight to show you what I mean. Think its right though (fingers crossed).
- '93 Jap Import B4 VVC


Offline Wudy

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Re: Stripping the Engine...
« Reply #16 on: February 19, 2010, 05:02:54 PM »
Ok, so some pictures (these are all with the timing marks lined up on the pick-up)...

Before:










After






So it seems that the ends of the cam are lined up, but the sprockets aren't. However, I think that when the cams are facing the opposite way they might be...
Look ok to you guys though?
Turned out to only be one tooth out, so there shouldn't be any damage to the pistons/valves (and I can't see anything). All the cams and rockers look ok too. Think I've escaped this one!

Just the valve adjustments to do next...  :shock:
- '93 Jap Import B4 VVC


Offline Chris H

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Re: Stripping the Engine...
« Reply #17 on: February 19, 2010, 05:11:24 PM »
Hi Wudy,
The pictures are not clear enough to tell. Its the marks that got to be spot on as they time it all up. You got the first gen VVC so 20 pins is good.

Offline Wudy

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Re: Stripping the Engine...
« Reply #18 on: February 19, 2010, 06:35:01 PM »
Right, so after thinking it was right it wasn't. It was infact out by 2 teeth. Just went out and did again what I did earier today and it's now lining up right *dances*











I haven't got the timing mark lined up with that, but I'll check that when I take the pick-up cover off. Fingers crossed that's all sorted then!

Onto checking the valve clearences, am I checking the clearance between the top of the valve stem/spring and the rocker arm? The opposide side to the adjuster? Because I can't see a thickness gauge getting down below the adjuster like I thought it should.

Cheers guys!
- '93 Jap Import B4 VVC


Offline Chris H

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Re: Stripping the Engine...
« Reply #19 on: February 20, 2010, 05:37:10 AM »
Looking much better. :beers:
Now regarding the clearences HOW MANY DAYS HAVE GOT SPARE!!!!!!!!!!
Have you got a service manual with VVC info in? I will get mine from my mates as the clearences are very complicated. They use shims and the pin adjusters are only for adjusting the clearence between the low and high followers.

Offline Wudy

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Re: Stripping the Engine...
« Reply #20 on: February 20, 2010, 05:47:43 AM »
Woop!

Sounds painful lol, I've got as many days as it takes really, just want go get riding again! No, the closest manuals I've got is one for the non-VV ('91-'93) and one for the '97 VV (inlet only).
So if you've got one for the 1st gen VV that would be awesome!

EDIT: I'm going to ask this here beause it seems stupid to start a new thread for it:
Do you have to remove the swingarm to replace the chain?? On my old bike (little RS50) it was just a case of back wheel out and swap over.
If so, would it be worth replacing the bearings in there seeing as it's got ~41k km on it. Which reminds me, I get a bit of a knocking sound when I lift the weight off the back end, need to find out which joint that's coming from.
« Last Edit: February 20, 2010, 06:11:41 PM by Wudy »
- '93 Jap Import B4 VVC


Offline Chris H

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Re: Stripping the Engine...
« Reply #21 on: February 21, 2010, 07:26:25 PM »
You gotta use the 97 info but allow 0.18-0.25mm (0.007-0.010 inch) for the exhaust clearences and the book covers the inlet only so the exhaust is opposite way when turning the cam rocker shaft due to the rack movement.
So you will have to check low setting, high setting and clearence between the two. D'oh!!!
I wish you luck.
Chris.

Offline Wudy

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Re: Stripping the Engine...
« Reply #22 on: February 23, 2010, 06:50:25 AM »
Sigh :-( lol
Hopefully have a crack at it later this week then. Sure I'll have some questions lol. But if I do I'll start a new thread just related to the valve clearances. If all goes bad I can always get it back to the garage and get him to do it lol.
Cheers.
- '93 Jap Import B4 VVC


Offline Wudy

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Re: Stripping the Engine...
« Reply #23 on: February 25, 2010, 12:49:47 PM »
Ok, I haven't got round to having a go yet as I've been busy. Don't think I'll get a chance until next week unless I can find time on Sunday. Got my new chain and sprocket set today as well so I need to get that fitted too.

Chris, how do you put the cams in the high and low positions?

That 'Rocker shaft turning wrench' (as mentioned in the manual) isn't available at my local parts dept., and looking online puts it at about $180...
Think that's the final thing to sort out. I didn't realise it uses shims to adjust the clearance (just read your reply about it properly, was on my phone before), that's more money then lol.
- '93 Jap Import B4 VVC


Offline Chris H

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Re: Stripping the Engine...
« Reply #24 on: February 25, 2010, 01:16:56 PM »
Hi mate,
I use the long 5mm screw that holds the righthand swtich gear on, you put it through one of the HT coil spacers and its as good as any OE tool. You will need the book for the 97VVC and then using the bigger exhaust clearences work opposite on the EX cam ( clockwise becomes anti clockwise). You need to write down all the shim sizes you have and then you can usually swop around and only buy the odd ones you need. The big low speed shims are standard as used on loads of bikes and the little top hats are Jap only :duh:
The pin adjusts the gap between the low and high so you got to set the cam in the correct place as you can set any of them in any position!!!!!! In the low position you set the low(big shim) and the pin, in the high you set the high (top hat) by turning the cam adjuster at the end of the follower shaft- this will only turn in one place bit i carnt remember where or why, so if it dont turn you will need to refrence the book and turn the engine over.
After youve done this you will know all there is to know about valveclearences.LOL :beers:

Offline Wudy

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Re: Stripping the Engine...
« Reply #25 on: February 26, 2010, 05:40:49 PM »
After youve done this you will know all there is to know about valveclearences.LOL :beers:

Orrr I end up with a dead bike and being non-the-wiser  :stickpoke:

Sure it'll allllll be fine though! I'll give that handmade tool a go and see what I can do (while following the manual very closely...), I don't think they're any other specialist tools is there? Got the 'valve adjust driver' thing too (the £3 one).

Hopefully, my next post will be telling you it's all done and listing my new (in spec) clearances. I'm also hoping it's all in spec already, that would make me happy  :grin: but it's been over 5k since it was last done (bought with ~36k km and it's about 41k now, no idea when it was done before).

Cheers for your help! Muchly appreciated  :thanks:
- '93 Jap Import B4 VVC


Offline Chris H

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Re: Stripping the Engine...
« Reply #26 on: February 27, 2010, 05:34:54 AM »
LOL- Its a hole in the head, but just go nice and slow and follow the low, high and sub clearence order and its ok.
You wont use the valve tool as they are too thick. I just use the half of the tool that fits the pin and then lock/unlock the nut with a fine 8mm 'T' bar, not ideal as you carnt unlock adjust and lock as with the proper tool but you get the jod done.
Very usefull thing you can have are a pair of magnetic pick up tools or the screw drivers with the pull out magnetic ends as you can use one to lift a shim and swop it with the other. YOU DO NOT want to drop a shim down the motor!!!!!!!!!!!!! if you do it without the magnet YOU WILL drop one!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :thumb:
Chris.

Offline tomacGTi

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Re: Stripping the Engine...
« Reply #27 on: February 27, 2010, 09:43:08 AM »
You know, I used to really want a VV, now I'm pretty happy with the regular 400, though I wouldn't mind the dual discs...

After reading all that, the novelty wore off quickly. I can do a normal B4 valve adjustment from start to finish in about an hour and change, including the carb synch afterwards: don't forget that part....

Best of luck Wudy, hope all goes well for you.

Offline Chris H

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Re: Stripping the Engine...
« Reply #28 on: February 27, 2010, 03:03:05 PM »
Hey GTi- stick to what ya know! super quick to do the nonVVC as you dont even after swop shims, just unlock turn and lock. The VVC is a great little bike when set up and pulls like a dentist on speed! Problem is people look in the motor, see the pins and think easy job- adjust these and then the bike runs tight. Ive got 2 spare VVC motors and both have broken high speed cam followers from the motor never being adjusted.
Wudy- ive got some spare top hat shims, so if you need some PM the sizes and if ive got them i will send them to ya.

Offline Wudy

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Re: Stripping the Engine...
« Reply #29 on: March 03, 2010, 03:22:35 PM »
Right, I'm getting there (lol), had a couple of hours this afternoon, all I've manged is the measurements on the intake side  :embarassed:

Anyway, here's my findings (both for opinions and to make sure I'm measuring the right places).
All for intake:

Lo-Side (Low cam position, clearance between the valve and the rocker arm)
Cylinder No.  Valve  Clearance
#1  Left    0.10
#1  Right  0.10
#2  Left    0.15
#2  Right  0.10
#3  Left    0.15
#3  Right  0.10
#4  Left    0.15
#4  Right  0.15

Hi-Side (High cam position, clearance between the two rocker arms)
Cylinder No.  Valve  Clearance
#1  Left    0.10
#1  Right  0.10
#2  Left    0.15
#2  Right  0.10
#3  Left    0.15
#3  Right  0.10
#4  Left    0.20
#4  Right  0.15

Sub-Rocker Arm Play (Low cam position, clearance between the two rocker arms)
Cylinder No.  Valve  Clearance
#1  Left    0.10
#1  Right  0.10
#2  Left    0.15
#2  Right  0.10
#3  Left    0.00
#3  Right  0.00
#4  Left    0.10
#4  Right  0.10

I'm pretty sure they're all measured in the right place.
I was only measuring it with a feeler gauge that goes 0.05, 0.10, 0.15, 0.20 etc. However, I have now found another one that goes in smaller increments so might re-measure with that to get a more accurate measurement... not sure if it's worth it though?

I'm quite worried about the sub-rocker arm play on cylinder #3 though... zero!? At least everything else is within spec (though 0.10 being on the bottom end of that).

Will hopefully be getting some time tomorrow afternoon to do the exhaust cam.
« Last Edit: March 03, 2010, 03:27:33 PM by Wudy »
- '93 Jap Import B4 VVC