Accel Super Coils

[jcmjrt]

Well, the guy came down to $70 so I should be getting them. I say probably as he has been a little slow on answering via e-mail. No transaction is done until you have the part in your hands...

[Herr Tod]

The 14K redline Bandit has the rev limiter at 14500.

[Thief400]

The 14K redline Bandit has the rev limiter at 14500.

Wrong!!!!! the 14000 redline has the rev limiter kicking in a 13750 RPM

[Thief400]

The Euro and US models are a little different...and the later models of Bandit. We only got them in the US for three years starting '90. Chenrezi a new member from Europe was just posting about his Euro bike and talking about some bikes not redlining until 16K.

He said the tack goes to 16000 the redline is still at 14000, my Canadian spec 91 bandit the tach goes to 18000 with the redline at 14000. I have seen the tach hit 18 on a missed 1-2 shift, an OEM limiter can't control that sort of over rev.

[Herr Tod]

I've tried it three times today on my way back from a bikers gathering. Three times it hit at 14500. I did this in 3rd gear.

[Thief400]

then your tach is out a few Rpm

[Herr Tod]

Perhaps, but 500 rpm after the redline would seem more likely than 250 before the redline imo. Can anyone else comment on this?

[Red01]

Why would they want the limiter to kick in AFTER the danger zone?

With most bikes, especially Bandits, since they're not tuned for peak top end power, you're wasting time revving them that high anyway. Peak power is always below redline.

[Thief400]

Oops I made a mistake. section 6-5 of the Suzuki manual states
"ignition cut off circuit is incorporated in the ignitor unit to prevent over running the engine. If the engine rpm reached 13500 this curicuit cut of the ignition primary current to all spark plugs"
Its been awhile since I read the manual.
As red said the bandit if left stock, power fails off at 12500.
And what the hell are you doing holding the engine over the red line like that!!!!! AND not just once. I'm not saying that these motors arn't tough but you DON"T want to find out what happens when a rod brakes and saws the crankcase in half dumping 3L of oil infront of your back tire.

[Red01]

Oh come on... it probably wouldn't go like that.  
It'd probably suck a valve, or a piston would kiss one and just lock the back wheel.  

[mtbcrazy]

Wow, they BOTH sound bad!  And the results are just about the same, aren't they?  

Wouldn't a locked up rear wheel be sliding like NOBODY'S business? I can see a squiggly black line down the highway for hundreds of feet (if you can keep the bike upright).

Yet, having engine parts flying out near your knees as hot oil splashes all over your feet and the rear starts sliding sounds just as bad, and just as hard to keep upright.

And, shouldn't red-line be the point where the engine EXPLODES?  To figure true red line, remove the limiter (can that be done on a bandit?) and rev it up until it BLOWS, then subtract 100 rpm (just to be safe, Suzuki subtracts 500, bunch of wimps).

My totally stock 1992 has seen 12,000 regularly, but it gets pretty boring around there and you might as well shift (if you have another gear).  Isn't the point to accelerate as fast as possible?  On my bike, shifting before red-line seems way faster than waiting til it gets there.  (but hearing her scream once in a while is nice).

Ron

[Thief400]

Oh come on... it probably wouldn't go like that.  
It'd probably suck a valve, or a piston would kiss one and just lock the back wheel.  

If you go to the GSXR400 sites there are lots of engines that have broken rods

[Herr Tod]

Say hello to rod number 1



You are right, it's useless to rev it that high, unless you're in a corner and need to accelarate but can't shift because the exhaust is dragging over the road for example. However if you do it 'gently' there should not be a big problem. It is much worse to miss a gear for example, because then you go from full load to no load at all and all the excess force will be put on the crankshaft bearings. For a 50 cc bike this is about 500 KG of force on those bearings.

Anyway, now I know where the limiter kicks in, that's enough for me. Usually I shift at 12000 - 12500 so it ends up at about 10000 in the next gear, or at 11000 - 11500 when I shift from 4 to 5 or from 5 to 6.

[tomacGTi]

I have the same conversations with VW people all the time...

If you ever look at a power curve or better yet, dyno plot  for any motor, you'll notice that power drops off well before the stated redline. Basically, taking it all the way up there is pointless unless you're trying to land it in the meat of the torque curve on the next shift, miss a shift or a re downshifting and miss a shift.

Common issues with over-revving are spun bearings, floated valves (since these are shim over bucket, it's less common versus hydraulic) and in the not-so-rare instance, broken rods. Since there is such little weight on everything, things do spin up faster but there's only so much a bearing can tolerate before it fails, hence the destruction.

It's a different story on a built motor, but stock, I would keep it under the redline.

-Randy

[gsxr400 racer]

If you go to the GSXR400 sites there are lots of engines that have broken rods

WHERE?

Mine hits 14,000 15,000 rpm all the time!