Bandit Alley
MODEL SPECIFIC => SUZUKI BANDIT 250 & 400 => Topic started by: interfuse on August 06, 2005, 11:33:48 PM
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Broke down today and cleaned my clogged idle jet. I'm now back idling on 4. Wooo-hooo. :banana: :banana: :banana:
Due to a comdey of errors on my part it took way too long. But I'm glad I'm done. Word to the wise, throttle cable routing can be very important!
Tomorrow I'm going to try and tackle my 4k rich spot and should be good too go.
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Rich at 4k??? I thought the 4k flat spot was typically lean. I know mine is.
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I'm definately rich at 4k. When the engine is cold it revs good throughout the rpm range. As it heats up 4k starts bogging. If I drop the needle one clip it goes away.
Right now I'm running 97.5 mains, 3rd clip, 15mm float hight, 2.5 turns out. As long as dropping the needle doesn't drasticly affect somewhere else in the RPM range my carb should be dialed in. Three weeks of carb fiddling and by far the best setting I've found is what's recomended by Factory Pro.
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Interesting. Mine is the opposite - bogs at ~5k when cool, gets better as it warms.
I'm screwing around with mine too. I'm obsessed with my modded airbox (~1inch holes drilled on either side of the orig opening). It absolutely jumps at certain RPMs when I'm using it but was WAY lean up top and the 5k problem got a little worse. I'm up to a 105 main, middle clip position (Factory Pro TI needles), 14.5 float height and ~3 turns out. It's almost there. I think 107.5 mains will be the ticket.
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One setting I tried thats close to what you're running was 3 turns out, 2nd clip from top, and 110 mains. It ran amazing everywhere but at idle where it keep stalling on me. However, with the modded air box you might be able to get away with it.
I haven't got around to chopping up my airbox yet. I think I'll wait until I score a spare on ebay. Then the carb fun will start all over again. But I'm sure the second time around I'll be able to tune it alot faster.
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jUST REMEMBER IF YOU GET TO FAR UP OR DOWN ON THE NEEDLE YOU NEED TO MAKE A MAIN JET CHANGE IDEALY YOU SHOOULD BE IN THE MIDDLE CLIP POSISTION! :beers:
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I haven't got around to chopping up my airbox yet. I think I'll wait until I score a spare on ebay.
Dats what I did! :clap:
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Interesting. Mine is the opposite - bogs at ~5k when cool, gets better as it warms.
I'm screwing around with mine too. I'm obsessed with my modded airbox (~1inch holes drilled on either side of the orig opening). It absolutely jumps at certain RPMs when I'm using it but was WAY lean up top and the 5k problem got a little worse. I'm up to a 105 main, middle clip position (Factory Pro TI needles), 14.5 float height and ~3 turns out. It's almost there. I think 107.5 mains will be the ticket.
Okay, I couldn't wait for another lid to appear on ebay. I broke down and drilled my airbox. I put in (2) 1" holes and it runs way lean up top but nice down in the bottom. I'm goning to try making the holes smaller by inserting a pop bottle lid and drilling it down the 3/8". See how that goes. I'll keep ya posted.
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interesting post. hopefully the info here will help me solve my own bogging issues. bike bogs from idle to about 5k. I'm using the 97.5 mains. I'm going to tear it apart to figure out whats wrong.
is running a modded airbox or new air filter necessary with a slip on a jet kit?
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It's not necessary at all. Just experimenting trying to make a bit more power. All the way from idle to 5K? These bikes are typically lean in the 4-5k range with or without a jet kit - especially when cool. I don't recall a regular problem like theat off-idle. I raised my needles (factory pro TI) one clip position which fixed 4-5 but I was rich somewhere above that range (don't remember the exactly circumstances but I want to say 6-7k crusing - part-throttle). I'm several steps from that now, with race headers, modded airbox and larger mains - still trying to dial it in.
But to hopefully better answer you question, when I was running all stock except for the jet kit and a slipon, the bike ran very well when fully warmed up. I just had a fairly bad flat spot at around 5k when cold.
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Currently I have my auxillery holes in the airbox taped completely off and the bike runs excellent.
Before changing my worn needle jets I'd always be running rich in the low rpms. The only way I could correct that was by adding more air. Then adjusting the middle & high end to work... which ended up giving me terrible gas milage.
If you are running rich in the low end, change your needle jets. If you are running rich in the low end it will get worse as the motor heats up...
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im not sure if its a carb issue. the carbs were cleaned and snyched a few days ago. the problem started after riding around with no exhaust for a while.
a friend believes it to be a bad coil
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I'm using the 97.5 mains. I'm going to tear it apart to figure out whats wrong. is running a modded airbox or new air filter necessary with a slip on a jet kit?
M3,
I have 97.5 main jets in mine, also, and the needles are raised 1 space up. I have a Yosh can and the air box is unmodified. The air/fuel idle screws are out 3 turns and it's surprising how well it runs. The flat spot around 5k and down is almost completely gone. Just thought I'd chime in since you and I might have the same set up.
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thanks for the input duane. Im on vacation for the 3 day weekend but once I get back, I will try to dial in similar settings. Hopefully it works. Thanks!
Ride safe this weekend everyone! :beers:
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The needles are raised 1 space up.
Maybe I should be more specific about this point. The needles are from FactoryPro and the clips are one space down from the center position, essentially raised up. Good luck again :motorsmile: