Bandit Alley
MODEL SPECIFIC => SUZUKI BANDIT 250 & 400 => Topic started by: duane on October 17, 2007, 06:20:52 PM
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I'm tearing down a B4 engine and want to get into the bottom end. Manual says I need one of these:
(http://www.sudco.com/images/950-479.gif)
So I can do this:
(http://www1.odn.ne.jp/~cde33290/FeelingOver/TechnicalWorks/BANDIT400Racer-EngOH-16.JPG)
That's a Bandit 400 engine
Manual calls it a "Case seperator" everyone else calls it a case splitter.
Ron Ayres sells it for $134.00 Bike Bandit $156.00. Mother-freak'n-OUCH! Ebay isn't any better.
My question, is there another tool I could do this with or some other technique I don't know about?
Thanks,
Duane
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I think you may be ableto adapt a harmonic balancer puller to do the same job.
I'd just sub the hardware with the correct metric ones for the flywheel and you should be all set. I've never taken apart a B4 motor before so I'm just guessing.
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I think you may be ableto adapt a harmonic balancer puller to do the same job.
I'd just sub the hardware with the correct metric ones for the flywheel and you should be all set. I've never taken apart a B4 motor before so I'm just guessing.
correct :clap:
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My shop rents harmonic pullers for about 8 bucks a day.
Personally,anytime I come across a taper fit shaft,I just loosen the bolt and give it a good whack with a brass hammer.
99% of the time they pop right off with no problem.My RX-7's flywheel is the same way.300lbft of torque with a 2" gland nut holding it on,and yet I can pop the thing off the taper with one whack of a heavy hammer.
I cant imagine how much money Ive made renting people pickle forks for removing balljoints and tie rod ends.If only they knew how easy it can be...........
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yea true on some but i would want to loosen the resin :stickpoke: and smash my crank thrust bearings :stickpoke: good advice for cars and diesels
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Personally,anytime I come across a taper fit shaft,I just loosen the bolt and give it a good whack with a brass hammer.
99% of the time they pop right off with no problem.My RX-7's flywheel is the same way.300lbft of torque with a 2" gland nut holding it on,and yet I can pop the thing off the taper with one whack of a heavy hammer.
I cant imagine how much money Ive made renting people pickle forks for removing balljoints and tie rod ends.If only they knew how easy it can be...........
I must be doing something wrong... 99% of the time, I can never get a ball joint or tie rod end out with a hammer whack or three - unless it's been out recently. (Maybe it has something to do with the fact that most of my experience is with joints that have been swimming in mud and water a lot over their lifetime.)
OTOH, I've found I can buy pickle forks for less than the local rental yard charges to rent (~$3-5 @ Harbor Freight), so I own several different sizes.
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thats cause you need a BFH
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thats cause you need a BFH
Yea...remember, don't force it, use a bigger hammer. :bandit:
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If the hammer was any bigger, you couldn't swing it in the space you're working in.
Even my BFRG wouldn't work as a hammer (works well with a pickle fork in it though).
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The main thing I have against pickle forks is that they usually destroy the rubber boot on ball joints......fine if your replacing them,but that isnt always the case.They actually work with the same principle as the hammer,except they also pry as they impact.
In this case,I wouldnt use anything but a brass,lead or other soft hammer.Its unlikely that the taper is corroded since its inside the engine.A LITTLE heat from a plumber's torch might even help,and I would only hit from an angle.....like you said Jay,smashing it straight in is no good for the thrust bearings.
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you can easily make your own flywheel remover.
get a metal plate (should be quite strong)
drill a large hole in the center and get a long thick strong center bolt at the store (also get a nut to be able to mount the bolt)
choose which of the holes in the flywheel you are gonna use and measure distances (id choose the holes which are tapped so you can easily attach some bolts, else your gonna have to use some hooks)
now drill some extra holes in the plate and you're readdy to go.
attach the large bolt in the center of the metal plate and put the nut on it. then do the smaller bolts through the holes you drilled and turn them into the flywheel.
now you can loosen the flywheel by turning the center bolt onto the flywheel.
if it won't come loose, use a hammer...
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well whats the verdict :stickpoke: