Bandit Alley
MODEL SPECIFIC => SUZUKI BANDIT 250 & 400 => Topic started by: duane on April 20, 2006, 08:07:12 PM
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I've been having trouble with what I believe is the pilot circuit. The bike starts, idles well and pulls hard when accelerating over 5000 rpms. But when blipping the throttle at idle and when pulling away from a stop, the engine stumbles badly. I've had the carbs apart twice now and cleaned them well, I thought, by reaming them with a twisty-tie wire, squirting carb cleaner in every orifice and blowing compressed air through them. Obviously something is still wrong. I would like to soak the carburetor parts in cleaning dip, but I'm leary of this because of the large plastic parts in the middle of the carb boddies. Does anyone have an opinion? Can those plastic parts take it? Is there a particular carb cleaning bath that will not eat plastic. Are there plastic or rubber parts in the choke mechanism to consider? Thanks.
Not necessarily this one, but something like it. (http://www.gunk.com/prod_photo.asp?img=LG_CC3K.JPG)
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The quick answer is yes, those plastic bits (Slide bodies?)can be taken out. First remove the main jets, then use a wooden dowl (A golf tee works well for me) to push the emulsion tubes out, carefully pull out the the plastic slide bodies with your finger or fingers. I had similar symptoms and found that it was a result of worn slides and slide bodies. That might be something that you may want to closely examine when you take the slides and bodies out.:beers:
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After the bikes warmed up, when you come to a stop, what does your idle do?
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...what does your idle do? Hang high, then drop to what its suposed to be?
Thanks Mike, but luckily no. I sorted out that problem earlier. It really does idle nicely. It just stumbles when I blip the throttle then returns to idel immediately.
push the emulsion tubes out, carefully pull out the the plastic slide bodies with your finger or fingers
Really? I had no idea you could do that. Anymore cool hints?
Has anyone else used these dips before?
Thanks!
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Raise your needles your too lean in the midrange !!!!!
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I don't know of a dip I would trust to do the job that I'd feel good about leaving rubber or plastic in.
Berryman's Chem-Dip Carb & Parts Cleaner (http://www.berrymanproducts.com/Default.aspx?tabid=146) is what I'd recommend. It's also what my son-in-law uses to clean carbs on the small engines he regularly has to clean from customers who don't use a fuel stabilizer in their small engines and let them sit for a months - or years.
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Raise your needles your too lean in the midrange !!!!!
A quick test to see if its a lean problem, trying running the bike with a little bit of choke and see if the problem gets better. If it gets worse, then you have a richness problem.
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...trying running the bike with a little bit of choke and see if the problem gets better. If it gets worse, then you have a richness problem.
Another great trick, thanks!
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Raise your needles your too lean in the midrange !!!!!
A quick test to see if its a lean problem, trying running the bike with a little bit of choke and see if the problem gets better. If it gets worse, then you have a richness problem.
The choke circuit will NOT add enough fuel to see if the bike is lean ... ALL stock bandits are lean in the 4 to 6000 rpm range which is made even worse if a slip on or pipe is added. The way to clear it up is to raise the needles end of story, no little tricks on this one just do it
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The choke circuit will NOT add enough fuel to see if the bike is lean ... ALL stock bandits are lean in the 4 to 6000 rpm range which is made even worse if a slip on or pipe is added. The way to clear it up is to raise the needles end of story, no little tricks on this one just do it
The test has worked for me! I'd rather make sure the bike is running lean or rich before adjusting the needles. No point in doing it more then you have too. I was rich in the mid range post jet kit install. :beers:
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The idle on my 91 B4 hangs high and slowly drops down. Interfuse, what did you say about that?
I have recently cleaned and resealed the carbs. I also balanced the carbs the best I could, but not being able to hold a steady idle for long made it difficult to achieve a perfect balance.
TIA
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Hanging idle indicates a lean pilot circuit. It could be caused by a bunch of things.
1. Intake air leak
2. Restricted pilot jets
3. Low Float height
4. Incorrectly set Air/fuel screw
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I don't know of a dip I would trust to do the job that I'd feel good about leaving rubber or plastic in.
Berryman's Chem-Dip Carb & Parts Cleaner (http://www.berrymanproducts.com/Default.aspx?tabid=146) is what I'd recommend. It's also what my son-in-law uses to clean carbs on the small engines he regularly has to clean from customers who don't use a fuel stabilizer in their small engines and let them sit for a months - or years.
UM CHEM DIP SCARY! :stickpoke:
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I chem-dipped my old carbs several times...
All it did was make my light headed from the fumes. :lol:
Those old carbs were beyond help, though. When I finally did get them fairly clean, they started falling apart. Apparently all the corrosion and gunk was holding them together.
Those old race carbs worked good, just never could get it tuned perfect. I think most of the problem was the valves being out of whack. Unfortunatly I'll never know, now. :sad:
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throw an oring in some chem dip by itself and see what happens?
what became of your b4 who is the lucky owner now?