Carb Sync problem please help!!!

[mgTagGD]

After facing problems with rust in the tank, I had to clean and synchronize the carbs. After installing the carbs I had problems, with carbs 1+4 the sub pressure was low, only -0.2 and would not rise. carbs 2+3 were ok. After trying everything, I even had the valves adjusted, I changed the position of the diaphragms and replaced 2 missing o-rings and the problem moved from carb 1 to carb 3, carb4 runs fine. Everything seemed fine in carb 3, I checked it several times, I even bought a new diaphragm, but nothing.
  The issue that might help is that when I run the engine with out the air box , in the intake of carb 3 there isn’t a consecutive air suck, like in the other's , but it sucks air discontinuous but strongly!!!
  Any ideas? I have tested it after I had the valve adjusted and carb 3 was working fine, after I changed the position of the diaphragm the problem went to carb3.
  I have checked several times if it sucks air from the top, but I am sure it doesn’t, or shouldn’t, since every thing is in place.

[mgTagGD]

Any help?

[duane]

Ok, I'll take a crack at this.

Panakos,
I feel for you, but you qusestion is just plain confusing.  What does, "carbs 1+4" mean, what is "sub preassure" and "consecutive air suck".  What synchronization tool are you using?  I.e mercury sticks, dial gauges, Twin Max, etc.  If I was trying to trouble shoot this I would cover more basic things, like after you have the synchronization gauge hooked up are all other vacuum hoses clampped off?  To check for a vacuum leak from a bad seal, spray starter fluid (would someonelse step in here, is it starter fluid or carb cleaner?) around the carb boddies while the bike is running and note whether the rpm's rise.  Also I've never paid too much attention to the absolute amount of vacuum (cm/Hg centimeters of mercury vacuum), just how relative one cylinder is to the others.

[mgTagGD]

Thanks for the reply.
 
  Carbs 1+4 mean the carbs on cylinders 1 and 4 .
 Sub preasure is what i measure with the dial gauges.
 consecutive is continued and air suck , if i put my finger in front it is sucked from a steady force. I use 4 gauges.
  The carb that has the problem sucks air stronger than the others , but discontinuous , like a pulse.

To check for a vacuum leak from a bad seal, spray starter fluid (would someonelse step in here, is it starter fluid or carb cleaner?) around the carb boddies while the bike is running and note whether the rpm's rise

 Ι'll try this , it is a very good idea to see where the vaccum leak is.

Thanks

PS. My Z750 was stolen on Friday in fron of the cops so bandit realy needs to get running.....Greek police in your service...............[/code]

[mgTagGD]

Bandit Rocks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
After i sprayed like duane said , i was sure that there is no vacuum leak. And having adjusted valves my self i strted thinking about valve surjectives. So i used the same spray and sprayed in the intake of the cylinder with out the carbs in place. I waited 20 mins and then sprayed again...after i started the engine and kept spraying...after o while presure raised!!!!!!!!!!!! That was it , i was able to sync the carbs an then hit  the road.
   I also changed the sparking plugs with NGK CR9EK , old ones were CR8E.
Engine now rocks, almost no hesitation and full power. The only think is that in idle it sounds like one cylinder is poor, wich got a litle bit worse after puling the engine to 12.000 for a while.I had a rusted tank , maybe rust is still there and messes with pilot jets.

[mgTagGD]

Bandit is GSF400P 93' model no VC and has only 42.000Km on it.
I also got a used top yole with the bar for 100euros , and clip on's will be replaced. After that i will be looking for a GSXR shock!


   My Z750 was stolen a month ago, so bandit will be my girl again for some time.