Bandit Alley
MODEL SPECIFIC => SUZUKI BANDIT 250 & 400 => Topic started by: interfuse on April 22, 2007, 10:22:51 PM
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Looks like I'm going to be tearing apart the carbs again.
My bike is drinking gas and won't idle steady once hot. I've sync'ed the carbs, check the regulator, changed the spark plugs and cleaned the electrical connections. I'm figuring either the float heights wacky or my o-rings are bad again. :boohoo:
10k/per litre is getting pricey, I think my dads F250 gets better milage.
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don't forget to get your stuff from carb kit capital they are from Canada if you need the Addy let me know only way I've found to get the float needles other than k&L of course (BRIAN :stickpoke: ) But quite easy to get off eBay.
cheers
jay
Also many people believe that the o-ring epidemic is the holy grail for these carbs but as any shop mechanic will tell you is that you never over look the needle they have a spring plunger deal that if the spring gets week you have float problems if the rubber seal doesn't seal no more you got float (rich running) problems. In rebuilding carbs most companies that sell you a rebuild kit for the carburetors all that stuff comes in it o-rings rubber plugs needle and seats ect.. whatever is usually needed since you can not get a full rebuild kit for the carbs its more of a gather the parts up your self and most neglect to do the float needles. I think from Suzuki you have to buy the whole float assembly to get the float needle and luck for us they discontinued it.
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I've never replaced the float needles before. But they've always looked good when I've had the carbs apart. A few years ago I was going to replace the float assemblies until I found out suzuki wanted $100+ per unit. PM me the carb capital of Canada (most mikuni stuff I goto winners circle http://www.winnerscirclecanada.com/index2.htm ... but if you know somewhere else I'm all ears). I've got a few sets of used float assemblies around but if new is affordable I'd rather go that route.
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http://forums.banditalley.net/viewtopic.php?t=8683
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They may not be the holy grail, but in my case it was definately the o-rings. Two of them had completely spilt.
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Seems that i got similar problem with you Mike...
Idle is not good, running at low RPM (below 6k) is not good, sounds sputtering if you know what i meant... but i have no problem running at high RPM.
If i wanted to make it little better in the low rpm, i had to open the choke a bit to smoothen it.
What do you think? o-ring? pilot jet problem? etc...
Thanks
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Plugged pilot jets from typical rusty tank syndrome! :stickpoke:
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+1 for what Jay said. If you've done carbs before it's a pretty quick job to clean them out. I refurbished my carbs in 2 hours this morning. Pilots can be a bit a pain because you don't always get all the gunk out on the first run...
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You guys make it sounds like easy work to clean carb :p
but, for a newbie like me, it looks very complicated... maybe better to bring it to my mechanic rather than tore it apart, and lose all the small parts :grin:
Actually i just cleaned the carb about 2 weeks ago, and just run about 200 miles... Sounds like a lot of cost to take care of my b4 :lol:
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kreem the tank takes care of 99.9% of the carb problems. These gas tanks rust all the time if you see what looks to be red dirt in your float bowl you got rust problems.
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I live far away in Asia :p
can you explain more about kreem the tank? is this a brand of product for taking care of tank rust?
Maybe someone knows some other products that might have been sold worldwide (brand, etc...), cause i never hear about this kreem product... or maybe some other way to take care of the tank rust other than buying a new one :p
Thnks a lot!
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kreem the tank takes care of 99.9% of the carb problems. These gas tanks rust all the time if you see what looks to be red dirt in your float bowl you got rust problems.
What about the other 80% of the time that it's an o-ring problem???? :stickpoke: :grin: :wink:
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kreem the tank takes care of 99.9% of the carb problems. These gas tanks rust all the time if you see what looks to be red dirt in your float bowl you got rust problems.
What about the other 80% of the time that it's an o-ring problem???? :stickpoke: :grin: :wink:
True but in reality with no rust in the tank a cleanable fuel filter and new o-rings and float needle , new emulsion tubes (if they are bad), new needles (if they are worn). that covers 99.9% of the fuel issues oh then there could be the possible fuel valve issue. If you break it down there is so much info on this board about this bike you shouldnt be able to not fix anything. :motorsmile:
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O and i forgot the rare but possible replaced all that stuff and it still leaks . Possibilities are the biggest PITA leaking at the orings where the bank of carbs connects to each other. Or if your lucky your float bowl gaskets have just lost there squish and cant seal anymore. A helpful note there really isn't anything to seal your float bowl gasket that isn't effect by gas and turns to jelly so don't use the sealer stuff on your float bowl. I like to use this as a rule of thumb to if its brass and in your carbs it should shine like a monkeys ass. Clean that stuff like it was fine china. LOL :taz:
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so is that gasket kit your selling on eBay a good thing to buy..just as a precaution?
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yes but you are better off getting it direct from them unless you want to support my racing that's cool to but they come from Canada the link is floating around here for carbkitcapitol.
cheers
jay