Bandit Alley
MODEL SPECIFIC => SUZUKI BANDIT 250 & 400 => Topic started by: VW_NUT on June 17, 2008, 12:04:49 PM
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Hi everyone,
Been riding Hangin_biposto's bandit to try and work some of the little bugs out of it.
Is it common to have fuel petcock issues? It seams hers only flows fuel some of the time. If I spend a lot of time idling, it seems to stop flowing fuel. Is that I am not getting enough vacuum to the valve at Idle? (I just changed the vacuum line last night cause the old one looked like it might be flattening out.) I hear if you pull the screw out of the petcock and turn it staight up that this is a purge and does not need vacuum to operate. Is this correct?
Also, filled up the tank last night and the extra weight from fuel makes the bike stand almost straight up on the sidestand. The bike has a 1st gen bandit 1200 rear shock. Have people bent or cut their sidestands to make parking the bike safer?
Thanks again for all the help, the bike is running great otherwise.
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Yes, if you remove the screw and turn the petcock to the PRI (Prime) position, this will allow fuel to flow without vacuum.
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From what I've seen the petcock isn't rebuildable but removing the screw does allow a prime setting for the stock petcock. If the diaphram is bad it would leak through the vacuum tube into #1 and flood. Seeing that you're having fuel delivery issues, I'd say it's more than likely fine. You can just apply very slight vacuum with you mouth to check it as well.
Replacing the vacuum line is a good step in the right direction, make sure it doesn't kink over when you put the tank down. The tank should have also had spacers to raise it about an inch or so standard.
I'd make sure the sag is set correctly on the 1st gen shock, it is very marginally shorter than the stock B4 shock so it shouldn't be that vertical. 5 gallons is about 40 pounds so it should theoretically sag it very incrementally (10-15mm at most) if set correctly. Most of us go up as far as rear ride height is concerned so the kickstand is sort of a non-issue.
-Randy
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Replaced the vacuum line last night. We'll see if that helps any. No fuel leaks from the petcock yet.
The bandit 1200 shock is on the 3rd softest setting and seems to be good for my weight. (will be softend some for hangin_ biposto.) I have to be careful how I park so that the bike does not tip over.
I am not sure if I should cut & weld it, or if I should just put it in the vise and try to bend it.
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Also, does anyone know what other models I can use foot pegs from? The ones on the bike are pretty used up.
Will sv 650, or gsx-r ones work? There seems to be a ton of them on ebay.
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For pegs... I used stockers off of a GSXR (I forget what year). They worked perfectly and looked way better than the big clunky ones from the B4
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Thanks again.
I tried running the bike with the petcock in prime and I don't think I have a problem with fuel flow.
The bike runs excellent except for sometimes when the bike is fully warmed up, and its time to idle again, it stalls. Its usually at a stoplight after a good hard run, or when coming back into my driveway after a ride. I can't figure out why it just dies. The bike will restart with some throttle, sometimes stall again, and sometimes run fine after restarting. It will drive away just fine though.
The bike has a factory pro kit with 195 deg t-stat, 97 main/middle clip/2.5 turns on the fuel screws. Bike is stock other than a cobra f1 slip-on. Carbs are synched perfectly and when it idles the idle is strong at 1600.
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Test your charging system. I had similar symptoms when my RR when bad.
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I tested it last night.
When I first start the bike, it works perfectly.
After riding the bike for a while it acutally loses voltage as it revs up. 12.8 at idle, but 12.2 at 5K rpms. I didn't try any higher revs to keep from agravating the neighbors... I couldn't try it when the bike when into its fit cause I couldn't keep the bike running while I held the multimeter leeds.
Come to think of it, the problem usually happens after the radiator fan cycles, too. I wonder if the draw from the fan is a contributor? Also, I don't usually have the problem if I don't bring the bike over say 8,000 rpm. Usually happens after a quick blast through the high rpm.
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When it's otherwise acting normally, is it still somewhat difficult to start when it's warm? Unfortunately, I don't have a solution for that but am having similar (but not quite as bad) symptoms with my Kawi. It has either stalled or had low idle at stop signs several times - often after a hard run. It always starts but always takes a couple extra cranks when it's hot - either from riding it or just sitting out in the sun all day while I'm at work. It's never stranded me so... I've just been riding it. But, I'd love to figure it out...
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When it's acting normally, it fires right up when warm. Just breathe on the start button & it's running. When its acting up though, it will take a crack of the throttle to get it started.
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After riding the bike for a while it acutally loses voltage as it revs up. 12.8 at idle, but 12.2 at 5K rpms. I didn't try any higher revs to keep from agravating the neighbors... I couldn't try it when the bike when into its fit cause I couldn't keep the bike running while I held the multimeter leeds.
If you have a sealed yuasa battery it should read 12.8v without the bike running.
Here's my bad regulator thread:
http://forums.banditalley.net/index.php?topic=5831.0
The most useful info from that thread:
To quote Thief400 "The bike should be putting out between 13.8 to 14.5 volts with the bike at 5000 rpm. Any thing more or less and you have a problem. Anything less and it could be the stator or regulator, anything more and it's normally the regulator"
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New regulator should be here tomorrow or saturday. I wil report back then.
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never mind... Just found my problem. Sticky float in the carb. Damn, always something with old bikes.
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above is turbodude posting as Hangin_biposto... Gotta check the login before I post...
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I tested my RR today after I had a headlight bulb burnout. With the lights on and the bike not running the voltage was 12.2v with the lights off 12.8v. At 5k rpm 13v