Bandit Alley
MODEL SPECIFIC => SUZUKI BANDIT 250 & 400 => Topic started by: 243Win on March 06, 2008, 10:33:07 PM
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Such an animal exist or will I have to cobble something together?
Thanks
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If you do a search, you should see a recent thread....I'd say ohh...from about June of last year, with an e-mail address of a dude who makes them for around $65.
I bought a pair, and they are EXCELLENT! I highly recommend! :beers:
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http://forums.banditalley.net/index.php?topic=8742.0
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there ya go ;) I was too lazy :lol:
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I was procrastinating at work.... LOL.
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Outstanding! :thanks:
Now I just need to track something similar down for a 86 VF500.
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i'm also trying to outfit my uncrashed bike with sliders. i've read the thread but i've still got a question. the custom made ones are cool, but i'd like to make my own for far less than 65 bucks. so far i've got 2 three-inch pieces of delrin/acetal rod ($6) and two long 10mm bolts ($5). i don't have any examples to inspect up close, so my question, for those who are more familiar with slider designs, is: if you drill a hole big enough for the wide end of the bolt (and the 17mm socket that will tighten it) most of the way through the plastic rod (say 2.5 out of the total 3 inches), and then continue all the way through the last .5 inch of plastic rod with a narrower hole big enough only for the shaft of the bolt (this narrower hole goes against the frame), can you just tighten the engine bolt against the plastic of the slider? i'm not sure if this is how other designs do it. does anyone know if it would be stuipd to have an engine mount bolt tightening into plastic--of course with a stainless washer under the bolt head. the delrin stuff seems pretty high density, but i'm now engineer. wish i could draw a picture, because if this works it is very easy to do and much cheaper than 65 bucks...and it doesn't look bad at all.
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Seems reasonable. Note that the stock nut on the 10mm bolt on the engine mount is a "stretch" nut and only meant to be used once as I recall.
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i've got 2 three-inch pieces of delrin/acetal rod ($6)
mind sharing where you got that? I've been meaning to mount up something similar to what you're describing.
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hi, i first bought the delrin at a local CA store called TAP Plastics:
http://www.tapplastics.com/
But they only sell white delrin rod. I decided I liked black better so I ordered some online from this place:
http://www.smallparts.com/products/descriptions/zrd-zrbd.cfm
You can get 6" of the 1.5" diameter black rode for $6.15. Then all you need to do is get a longer 10mm bolt and drill the holes to mount the rod. The bolt that is on the bike is a 10mm 1.25 pitch, but it is easier to find a stainless stell grade 5 bolt in 1.5 pitch, so just get a nut to match it, and tighten it onto a washer that covers the hole the stock bolt fits into. i know this is confusing without a picture--just remember that the stock bolt is an allen-key bolt, and the longer one that you get is probably going to be a standard hex-head that won't fit into the little indentation on the frame. Also, Delrin is very easy to machine--I drilled my holes with a battery powered drill, but it would be better if you had a drill press.
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Don't worry isn't confusing at all, thanks for those sources, I see the ones on ebay are more expensive. I have a great local place for bolts, been meaning to pick up all the stainless bolts i need anyway, may as well add one more to the wish list. Thanks again
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Made mine from a set I got for an R-6, I believe.
Its not hard to make a set work on the B4.Its probably more of a challenge to make them stout enough to actually "slide" during a wreck,rather than just snap off.I have full confidence that they would work well as static or low speed bumpers,saving my bike from excess damage,but I doubt they would survive a high speed incident.....
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v286/rentalguy/b4001.jpg)
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did you just use the plastic part or did you use hardware too? i'm curious to know how the actual mounting works with those.
what kind of swing arm is that? and also, did you get special brackets to mount the turnsignals/get rid of the fender? looks great.
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I used the washers that came with the kit,but got the right Grade 8 metric bolts from a hardware store.
The swinger is a GSXR-400 unit modified by Jay to accept the B4 brake torque arm.I run an SV650 rear wheel in it with a 160 rear tire.
Fender eliminator kit consisted of a hacksaw and Dremel.The license plate is mounted all the way forward with a dedicated light,so I stay legal.
I have the rear turns mounted to old pass footpeg mounts and the fronts are mounted to my custom headlight brackets.Ive since installed a German made aluminum headlight mount that has turn signal mounts on it.
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when i took the stock bolt to a place that specializes in these things he said it was a stainless grade 5. thats what i put on. wonders if it makes much of a difference.
yours is the nicest looking bandit i've seen. does that gsxr400 swing arm take a gsxr 400 shock or do you have something else on there?
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Thanks.
I used Grade 8 just because.
Im sure the plastic will snap off well before the bolt.
The 400 swingarm is a direct bolt on,with a few minor mods.Jay handled the welding mods for me as part of the deal.Its shorter than the stock swinger,so the chain must be altered and a few other things tweaked.Im sure the shock will probably work too,but I opted for something a bit newer and modern.An 06' GSXR750 rear shock will bolt right up with a minor bit of grinding to the lower rocker.It offers high and low speed damping,is rebuildable and of course its brandnew.Got mine for about 40 bucks from a race team setting up a new bike,so it was literally brandnew.
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i was just looking into putting that same shock on my bike, although without getting into a new swingarm. do you know how much it raises the ride height? i can't find the eye-to-eye length for the 06-07 shock. if i could get one for that cheap i'd do it, even though i've heard the b12 shock is easier to install.
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i believe the new gixxer shocks raise it an 1 inch but i think the bandit 1200 ones raise it 2... but i could be wrong. either way the gixxer shock will be much better.
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found a guy who would sell me a custom built b4 shock for ~200, but can't decide if its worth it spending the extra money. does "works performance" have a good reputation?
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well if it custom built it will be built for that person, and no one else. so it might not work very well for you. and you will have to pay to get it reworked for your own weight and riding style. where you can get a fully adjustable shock for 40 ish dollars and tune it your self, which really isnt as hard as it sounds. there are a lot of videos on the net on how to tune.
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I used the 06' shock with the stock B4 swingarm at first and it rode fine.It raised the rear a little but not enough to be of any detriment.Even with the shorter GSX-R front forks,I still didnt feel that the rear sat too high at all.The low clip-ons had the most impact on how I felt while riding the bike,but Ive since grown accustomed to them.Im more used to bikes like this anyways,what with my FZR's.Its been a long time since I racked up many miles on a true "standard" motorcycle.
Im 6' 1" and 165lbs if that matters.I had the sag set by a local shop and he said everything looked and felt very well sorted considering it was such a rare bike to modify and was comprised of so many different parts.
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Hi, the gsxr400 rear goes straight in, same width at the pivot end, you can use the shock, the later ones are fully adjustable and the springs about right ive had one on my bandit for about 8 years, you have to adapt the caliper rod tho. there are loads on ebay.
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How did you adapt your caliper rod?
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You need to weld a lug to the underside of the brakeside swingarm then use a modded torque arm, i used a cut down KR1S one (looks trick in gold alloy). you got to do this with the swingarm out the bike with all the wheel etc in to line up the lug. Hope this helps, i will stick a photo on tomorra as my swingarm is out the bike, gettin the frame painted as ive alterd the frame so that the subframe is now removeable.COOOOLLL!!!
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Cheers mate need to do this myself too as i have a 76 swingarm to put on my bandit at some point.
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(http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn2/ChrisHank/Bandit004.jpg)
(http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn2/ChrisHank/Bandit005.jpg)
(http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn2/ChrisHank/Bandit006.jpg)
If it works some pics of the GSXR400 brake.
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another way to do the rear brake is to use an 06 1000 rear and weld up a tap on the inside of the brake side of the swing arm. thats how the last owner did mine. and it gets rid of ugly brake arm.
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That would look nice n tidy, did mine years ago n was racing a KR1S so used wot was in my shed, but the gsxr swinger is so much bettr than stock. Also the tie bars for the suspension linkage are 180mm on my bike, hope that helps you guys.
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Its not too noticeable if you paint it black.
The stock link draws attention being red,and its all the more noticeable if you have the silver GSXR swingarm.A sliding torque tab on the axle is the trick way to go,albeit a bit more work to do than welding on a torque arm mount nub.