Bandit Alley
MODEL SPECIFIC => SUZUKI BANDIT 250 & 400 => Topic started by: Squishy on September 14, 2013, 04:46:05 PM
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Hello,
History: right before a 3000km trip, my battery was dead. I push-started it and it was fine for 2 days - it would start from the starter.
After 2 days, battery was dead for some days and wouldn't recharge for 3 days...only to work 1 day and then die again.
I went to a garage and it measured ~11V with running engine and the guy said it was either my generator or my regulator/rectifier.
Anyway, once I was home I measured the battery and it was dead.. went to 3V while pressing start button.
I bought a new battery, and it started right up.
However, when I now measure the voltage on the the battery with running engine (5000rpm, lights on according to the manual), I still only measure ~13,3V while it should be >13.5V - <15.5V.
I recorded a movie to show the problem:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/22072961/MF/2013-09-14%2011.39.02.mp4
(19MB)
It even drops <13V sometimes:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/22072961/MF/2013-09-14%2011.33.04.mp4
(10MB)
So I measured the AC generator according to the manual and it's OK (75V AC).
I then measured the rectifier/regulator and from the measurements it seems dead. I get infinite resistance on all wires.
However I asked around and some say it's OK as long as the voltage with running battery is higher than the battery? Which it is..it goes from 12.8V to >13V-13.5V as seen on the video.
What do you guys think? What do/did you guys measure with running engine?
Thanks
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I'ts too low, agood reading should be 13.8v + try the test again with the headlights on and you should see it drop even lower.
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I'ts too low, agood reading should be 13.8v + try the test again with the headlights on and you should see it drop even lower.
Thanks for your reply.
As you can see i turn the headlights on in tthe video.
Is <13.5 a sign of bad rectifier or can it be something like bad connectors or wiring?
Can I measure voltage right on the rectifier (while still attached to the AC generator) instead of on the battery?
Can I measure the rectifier's resistance with any regular voltmeter? I heard it's possible for the diodes to not open if the voltmeter doesn't apply enough voltage.
Thanks
Thanks
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It may be one bad SCR or burned up connector a the R/R, check the Neg. connection it carries all the charging current and is a common problem on other bikes. Also check/clean all the main batt. connections.
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It may be one bad SCR or burned up connector a the R/R, check the Neg. connection it carries all the charging current and is a common problem on other bikes. Also check/clean all the main batt. connections.
Thanks. Any info on how to measure the negative connection?
I tried measuring the resistance as stated in the manual but it will just stay on infinite resistance on all connections, regardless of sensitivity (200, 2k, 20k, 200k ohm).
But, could I just measure the voltage on the b/w and red wires from the regulator/rectifier? This way I could cancel out at least all the wires to the battery.
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The best way to check bad connetions is to check the voltage drop across them, set to volt meter (2V) and for example put one probe on the + batt. terminal(the lead one right out of the battery) andthe other probe on the on the start solinoid - an ideal reading would be 0V , any resistance would show up as a higher reading (~2V). you can do this on any connections (Neg. or Pos.) as long as there is power there.
Usually the neg. connector right at the R/R burns up.
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The best way to check bad connetions is to check the voltage drop across them, set to volt meter (2V) and for example put one probe on the + batt. terminal(the lead one right out of the battery) andthe other probe on the on the start solinoid - an ideal reading would be 0V , any resistance would show up as a higher reading (~2V). you can do this on any connections (Neg. or Pos.) as long as there is power there.
Usually the neg. connector right at the R/R burns up.
Start solenoid? what does that have to do with the rectifier/regulator?
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The power from the R/R taps into the batt.+ at that point, I sometimes put directly on the batt.
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The power from the R/R taps into the batt.+ at that point, I sometimes put directly on the batt.
Sorry I don't follow.
Can't I just measure the Volts on the red and b/w and it should be 13.5V>-<15.5V right?
What if it's 13.3V? Should I replace the R/R?
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Yes across the R and B/W at the reg. it should be higher than 13.3V
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Yes across the R and B/W at the reg. it should be higher than 13.3V
Well, I guess it's broken then? Only measure 1.3V (not 13, 1.3)
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/22072961/MF/2013-09-22%2014.41.35.mp4