Author Topic: CBR thermostat? (Read 3629 times)

tomacGTi · « **on:** April 01, 2006, 10:21:50 AM »

Question for you all that have done this.

Does anyone have the Stant P/N for this? Since I had to do a valve adjustment on the bike (seeing that it's probably never been done) and I have to drain the coolant anyway, I thought it would be a good time to upgrade.

Bike Bandit is on crack wanting $48 or so for the thermostat assembly (they don't seem to have the thermostat listed separately). Since I was going to have to buy a new VC gasket anyway, I figured I'd throw this into the cart as well.

-Randy

Zhi · « **Reply #1 on:** April 01, 2006, 12:33:57 PM »

Never tried it but the Stant Part number is #13849.

tomacGTi · « **Reply #2 on:** April 01, 2006, 08:05:25 PM »

Thanks a ton!

tomacGTi · « **Reply #3 on:** April 11, 2006, 11:46:42 AM »

And for reference sake, so you don't have to deal with the same "holy-than-thou" douche parts guy at your local Pepboys....

The box number for that thermostat is 13849.
The blister pack ie. what's actually on the shelf is 59849
The price is $10.99

The application for it is a GM vehicle, I didn't get into it with him seeing as he already viewed me as "an internet parts expert". Now I don't feel bad when all I use the place for is a source of fluids and wiperblades. They're probably never going to get my business for anything else.

-Randy

Krautwagen · « **Reply #4 on:** April 11, 2006, 08:48:38 PM »

IIRC, Stant numbers ending in 9 are 195* opening temp stats... I thought our bikes like a much colder opening temp.

The CBR F3 stats are the ones that supposedly fit our bikes.

Krautwagen · « **Reply #5 on:** April 11, 2006, 09:00:13 PM »

The bike calls for a 166-173, but the boys over at factory pro suggest your exact stat, so nevermind. I think I'll have to go pick one up.

http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tecthermosuz.html

gunter · « **Reply #6 on:** April 13, 2006, 11:11:59 PM »

I am going to do this mod this weekend.

The Factory Pro website says "Be sure to drill 1 stock sized hole in the new thermostat to allow low water flow rate when the thermostat is closed."

Here is the link-

http://home.factorypro.com/tech/tecthermosuz.html

Anybody have experience without drilling a hole?

tomacGTi · « **Reply #7 on:** April 14, 2006, 12:51:26 AM »

It's a sealed themostat meaning that there are no other holes besides. Drilling a hole will make it much, much easier to fill and bleed.

You'll basically have a bitch of a time bleeding air out of the system without it, causing "hot pockets" where there is no coolant. The factory one, when you pull it out, you'll see has 5 holes total: 4 in the lead pellet area and a bleed hole in the top of the offset flange (probably more of a reason why the bike runs so cold in the first place. Some hints for you when you attempt to do it:

-The thermostat you're taking out is offset. You'll have to bend the tangs on the new one slightly to seat into the housing with the seal. You'll see what I mean when you remove it. The pellet end faces the engine.

-Make sure the bleed hole is at 12:00 when you install it. Air pockets will be on the topside of the housing, not the bottom. It would kind of defeat the purpose otherwise.

-If you think you can get to the thermostat via the outer flange, you can't. I thought it would be easier undoing the nylon flange but it sits nestled in the two aluminum halves.

-You can burp the system by squeezing the rad hoses and watching air come up via the radiator cap. Running it and checking later on is definately recommended, this just expediates the process.

Best of luck!

-Randy

Farre · « **Reply #8 on:** June 28, 2006, 07:42:46 AM »

has anybody looked at the F4i thermostat? kind of looks the same in the service manuals and it has already a hole drilled. Anybody compared them in real?