Got her running.

[andylad]

But there are more problems.  1st thing I checked was the charging voltage, 12.6.  not good.  I also noticed a white smoke comming out the exhaust upon warming up.  Further investigation confirms the smoke is not smoke, its a mist of raw fuel.  Could this be caused by the o rings on the tubes in the float bowl?  Does anyone have the size of the o rings?  From what I can see on the tubes, there are 2 sizes.  She wont start unless you are into the fuel, and when she does start, in neutral she revs up to about 8-9k, under load 1st and 2nd rev up to about the same, and 3rd and following gears are about 6k.  Anyone got ideas?

[andylad]

So I noticed a gas smell in the shed where the bike is stored and decided to take the carbs off again to see whats going on.  When I took the air box off, the carb to the left when sitting on the bike was full of fuel and seeping fuel into the air cleaner box.  I drained that single carb and made sure that the needle valve is still working and it is.  I'm going to replace the o rings on the tubes of this carb.  The way I see it, because the level of fuel is higher than the carbs, weather the needle valve is working or not, if the o ring is crap, fuel will continue to enter the bowl, and will continue to fill until the level of fuel is consistant with the tank.  And because that wont ever happen, it just enters the air cleaner box and drains out until there is no more fuel in the tank.  Sound right?

[interfuse]

Sounds to me like your fuel tap is shot (search petcock, fuel tap, etc on here). Gas should stay in the tank when there isn't a vacuum.

The left carb fills up the most because it's the side angled with the kick stand (lowest point). If your carbs are over flowing you'll have gas in your oil. Not good, time to change it.

[andylad]

Its hooked up to a temporary gas tank right now.  A one gallon fuel can, with a plastic hose fitting epoxied to the bottom, to an inline fuel filter, to the carb.  I made progress tonight.  Its the resistance of different filter materials in the air box.  I folded up a tee shirt and stuffed it into the airbox, and experimented with different folds but i finally got it right.  She will rev to 14k in neutral.  When riding 1st and 2nd are all there up to I think 10k.  3rd and the rest of gears are now going up to 8k.  I'm hoping that the UNI filter foam I ordered will solve the most of this.  When the resistance is right, she idles real smooth and very accurate, and doesn't stall when reved up and completely getting off the fuel.  Its good stuff.  I also ordered new plugs.  We will see how things go.

[andylad]

Problem solved.  The filter element is on order because that is what she needed.  The correct resistance makes the bike scream.  Good stuff.  Also got new cr8ek plugs and gapped correctly at .64mm going in tomorrow and hopefully with the new element the resistance will be perfect.  Oh yeah and the o rings fixed the fuel leak too. 

[andylad]

So I installed the new element and the resistance is still wrong.  I figured that there was too much resistance because there is a different exhaust than stock.  So I cut a hole in the box and it made it worse.  Stupid rookie mistake, no matter what when you put aftermarket crap on you have to adjust the fuel.  Not compinsate it by altering the air flow.  At least thats what makes sense to me.  So in the mean time till sunlight comes back, Ill be searching the site to see if there is any way to get a little more fuel without getting a jet kit.  If someone wants to post it so I can stop searching, feel free.

[interfuse]

Are you using an oem filter or did you cut you own? Did you oil the filter before installing it? What country is your bike from? I think almost every country but the US came standard with Adjustable needles. If you go a clip lower on the needle you'll get more fuel. You could also buy bigger mjs. Or adjust the fuel screw more turns out. However all of these will cause some issues somewhere in the rpms. It's kind of a dark Art getting the bike to run right with an after market exhaust.

[andylad]

Yeah, fair enough.  I installed non-bike specific UNI element foam that I cut to fit, It has been oiled.  I havn't looked at the numbers on the carb yet to tell what country, I'll get back to you on that.  If its going to cause different issues, I would rather have it do what its doing now.  Which is a little hesitant on a 1/4 throttle blurp, but then screams through the rpms.  I'm still going to try to get it a little better today, I'll let ya know how it works out.

[andylad]

The carbs are a Mikuni, 10D2.  Which i think means USA.  What i did was hammer in a baffle from a honda shadow that i own, hopefully not owning soon, and It seems very consistant in the rpm range.  So now I have to work on the hard starting issue.  I've heard before about brass choke circuit tubes being missing or broken, is this the most common reason for a non operating choke?  What is happening is choke or no choke it starts hard.  When running, if you put the choke on it will rev up very slightly and then die automatically.  I was expecting a high rev until releasing the choke.  Would the brass inserts cause this?