Bandit Alley
MODEL SPECIFIC => SUZUKI BANDIT 250 & 400 => Topic started by: crusher on October 12, 2005, 11:21:06 AM
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hi,
looking for a rectifier/regulator for a 400 bandit. if anyone has one for sale would be great
thanks
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I'm not sure where I've read this... but it should help.
Suzuki Part - $295,.. in Vancouver, so likely a week to get it.
BMV F650 RR - $209 Calgary, likely a couple of days to get,
Honda CB400 RR - $160 in stock at the dealer.
I know,.. wtf right?
Based on a little research, we should be able to use any 5 wire RR as long as it will fit, or you are willing to possibly have to re-locate it.
From : http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/VoltageRectifierFAQ.htm
Re: Electrex
"The man who answered the phone ... ANY regulator rectifier that has three yellow wires, one positive and one ground would work just fine, like for any Kawasaki or GS (assume he means Su..zuki) or really anything, as long as it isn't like a hundred cc's which in that case it wouldn't handle the power."
And further down the same page:
"FYI: We confirmed we can use a regulator from a Honda CB400 -- it is exactly the same shape, with mounting holes in exactly the same places, and 6 wires. Price for BMW part here is probably around $125, the Honda part is US$55. The only diff is the color of wiring - 4 wires are the same: 3 yellow, 1 red-white; for use on BMW, need to swap positions of the brown (earth) and green wires - Honda uses green for earth."
I saw the Honda one today, it's got 5 wires, 3 yellow, one red and one green. It's dimensions are slighly bigger than the OEM, but I'm not adverse to re-locating it for a savings of $135 and the ability to ride on Monday instead of waiting. I might take her in there on the back of the truck on Monday and test fit it right there just to make sure. (There is a possibility that it will fit in place.
If you're stuck on the Suzuki replacement:
LT250, RGV250,DRZ400,GS400E, GSxR400 (including the import version),LT400, Rf400,GS500E,GSF250,DR250,DR350,DR650, and DR800 all use the same RR. Possibly the LS 650 Savage as well. ( since it's listed as the same part # by SX electronics as the bandit 400, along with the BMW F650 )
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I have one. and most of the bike.
email to designrr@hotmail.com
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hi there, if you are going to get a new rectiflyer, for a ya bandit.listen to this. You may be lucky, it may not have fryed stuff, when mine went it killed the battery, the alternator died aswell. So may i recoment that you get a Honda Super four Regulkator rectufier put on it is bullet proof, just about every body i know with a suzuki has done this, it jusy makes the system more reliable thats all.
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ntv650 too? found one on ebay cheap and need it ASAP
it looks the same in shape and such...
http://cgi.benl.ebay.be/HONDA-NTV650-REVERE-RECTIFIER-REGULATOR-UNIT-1993_W0QQitemZ8044915086QQcategoryZ10460QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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these too?
from a CB900
http://cgi.benl.ebay.be/Honda-CB900-F2B-1981-Rectifier-regulator_W0QQitemZ8045353294QQcategoryZ10460QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
from a Dominator 650
http://cgi.benl.ebay.be/Honda-Dominator-NX650-Regulator-Rectifier_W0QQitemZ8046463043QQcategoryZ10460QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting
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Alex,
I have a reg/rect from a honda CBR954 in my bike. I have been running it about a year, no problems at all. It has an extra sense lead, so you need to run this to a source of 12V that turns off with the key. (for example the license plate light). I also had to fab a new mounting bracket, but it works far better than the stock unit.
I followed the advice quoted earlier from Herr Tod and just looked for a unit from a late model large displacement bike that was a reasonable price.
Steve
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interesting! at first i didn't know what to do with that info, but now i feel confident i can make something out of it,...now only to find a suitable one and fast...
Thanks guys!!
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okay, i got a CM400 R/R for a nice price,shipping today or tomorrow. i saw on gsresources that the Shindengen sh232-12 is a very good piece of sh..ehh "quality", they use it on their 1100's so shouldn't be any problem for my mere 400.
Connection doesn't seem difficult. I'll just wire the sense wire to the ignition button, i'm not sure the license plate light is on all the time.. oh well if it doesn't work, i can always try that as well.
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i'm not sure the license plate light is on all the time
Maybe it is just a North American thing for it to be on all the time.
I'll just wire the sense wire to the ignition button
By ignition button, do you mean the starter button? If so, I don't think that will work. You need 12V that is on whenever the bike is running, but off when the bike is not running. The reg/rect will draw current through the sense lead whenever there is power to it, and will drain your battery if there is 12V there when the bike is off.
Steve
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no with ignition button i meant ignition switch (Run/Off), sorry. That way the regulator will only work when it's in Run position. Maybe an added security? Or more economic on the juice? Who cares! But i think it should work.
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just checked by the way, the license plate light is off... maybe broken? Not important :lol:
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imn regards to our rectifier, how many amperes suitable for our bandit400?
tia
Ride Safely!
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i bought a cheaper rectifier yesterday here in the philippines. actually it is an 2nd hand surplus but it still working.
it has a markings 535-12 8.5 amperes, but when we install the recti the maximum output is just 13.48volts. is it normal?
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this is good, yes. As long as it doesn't go OVER 14V or under 12V it's good to go IMHO. Mine's currently always over 14 :sad: still waiting for the damn thing to arrive in the mail...
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Jomed - that dude in your avatar looks FAST!!!!!!!!!! :wink:
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this is good, yes. As long as it doesn't go OVER 14V or under 12V it's good to go IMHO. Mine's currently always over 14 :sad: still waiting for the damn thing to arrive in the mail...
sir farre,
thanks for the reply, now i have a piece of mind that it works well.
i read the sukbog manual that the normal operating voltage of rectifier (with head light on at 5,000 rpm) is in between 13.5v to 15.5v???
which is which???
ride safely!
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Jomed - that dude in your avatar looks FAST!!!!!!!!!! :wink:
sir pitterB4,
thanks, this is just an avatar which i got somewher in this site. anyway, i rode a yellow banditv 4 and i/we practice track atleast once a month.
nice meeting you here sir pitterB4
Ride Safely! :motorsmile:
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Jomed - that dude in your avatar looks FAST!!!!!!!!!! :wink:
sir pitterB4,
thanks, this is just an avatar which i got somewher in this site. anyway, i rode a yellow banditv 4 and i/we practice track atleast once a month.
nice meeting you here sir pitterB4
Ride Safely! :motorsmile:
That is so cool ROB a groupie, cheers Meant no offense there new guy! cheers
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Oh damn, Jay that was too funny.
Jomed - that's me in the avatar. I was just teasing.
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Oh damn, Jay that was too funny.
Jomed - that's me in the avatar. I was just teasing.
HAHAHA! :grin: is it really you? sorry for using your own stuff here... anyway, will change my avatar as soon as i learn how to upload my own picture/avatar here.
can i use it just for a month? :motorsmile: kidding!
Ride Safely
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I'm not sure where I've read this... but it should help.
Suzuki Part - $295,.. in Vancouver, so likely a week to get it.
BMV F650 RR - $209 Calgary, likely a couple of days to get,
Honda CB400 RR - $160 in stock at the dealer.
I know,.. wtf right?
Based on a little research, we should be able to use any 5 wire RR as long as it will fit, or you are willing to possibly have to re-locate it. If you're stuck on the Suzuki replacement:
LT250, RGV250,DRZ400,GS400E, GSxR400 (including the import version),LT400, Rf400,GS500E,GSF250,DR250,DR350,DR650, and DR800 all use the same RR. Possibly the LS 650 Savage as well. ( since it's listed as the same part # by SX electronics as the bandit 400, along with the BMW F650 )
LOL! That was my post. I'm glad to see that the info is being put to good use. I've been running the CB400 RR since I made that post,.. and it's doing just fine.
The entire thread is here if you want to get the background:
http://forums.banditalley.net/viewtopic.php?t=2305
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bad news, kinda.
I installed the r/r from a CM400, with the six connections as expected. I hooked up the black one with a 12V connection ( the brown wire from the rear light, is the same as the license plate trick), i left the red and green unconnected so i could check how much volts i got while running..
Well, i was in for a nasty surprise! It gave 101Volts!!! Measured on DC Volts.
I'm going to check on gsresources again why the hell this could be. If i start the bike without this one connected i get 0Volts, once i touch the brown one, it jumps back up to 101-103 Volts :crybaby: Why can't this shit work right from the first time!?
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bad news, kinda.
I installed the r/r from a CM400, with the six connections as expected. I hooked up the black one with a 12V connection ( the brown wire from the rear light, is the same as the license plate trick), i left the red and green unconnected so i could check how much volts i got while running
I'm not sure what this license plate trick is,.. but why would your RR have 6 wires? Mine has 5, and I have a 91 as well. Did your original RR have 6 wires?
3 yellow, that go to the stator, one green ( used to be black?) and one red. This should be all you need.
Honda uses different colors for their hot and ground colors! Be sure that you're connecting the right ones! Honda uses green for the negative wire, and red for positive. What the heck is the brown for?
I can go take a pic if needed.
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no no, the Suz R/r has 5 wires yes, the Honda R/r i have has 6, and yes green is the negative i know. The extra lead is a sense wire, it should be connected to a 'live' circuit, circuit after the key switch and already with +-12V on it. The license plate trick is just the "sensor" wire connected to the license plate number circuit cause it already has power.
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ON top of that, i also have an R/r from a Honda CBR600 from 1989 with 7 wires, 2 green and 2 red (simply + and -) and when this one is connected i get ONLY 0.85Volts!!!
This is ridiculous! i bought two R/r's off of ebay and both seems to be useless scraps of metal! I tested them all for continuity and the yellow wires don't seems to be in the 20 Ohm range, more like 20 MEGAOHM :crybaby:
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no no, the Suz R/r has 5 wires yes, the Honda R/r i have has 6, and yes green is the negative i know. The extra lead is a sense wire, it should be connected to a 'live' circuit, circuit after the key switch and already with +-12V on it. The license plate trick is just the "sensor" wire connected to the license plate number circuit cause it already has power.
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ON top of that, i also have an R/r from a Honda CBR600 from 1989 with 7 wires, 2 green and 2 red (simply + and -) and when this one is connected i get ONLY 0.85Volts!!!
This is ridiculous! i bought two R/r's off of ebay and both seems to be useless scraps of metal! I tested them all for continuity and the yellow wires don't seems to be in the 20 Ohm range, more like 20 MEGAOHM :crybaby:
Are you sure it's in the MegaOhm range? (Not doubting you, just checking) My multimeter reads funny, and it turns out that it reads in megaOHMS, not in OHms,... ( truly made me crazy for a bit there)
So,.. at the stage that you're at,.. the stock one would cost you less than this. :sad: Ok,.. do you have an option of getting a 5 wire RR? Then you're not needing to futz with things more than necessary.
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yeah i'm sure it's Mohm.. i set the range from down going up till i got a reading,.. atthe 200K range still showing 1.*** and finally getting a reading in the 20Mohm, wasn't a happy feeling.
I am convinced that the R/r's should work, if they weren't faulty from the start, seems i have incredibly bad luck this moment. Anywho, i sent an email to the guy from the CBR600, maybe they're willing to show some goodwill, who knows.
Other than that... i don't know what i'm going to do, my brand new battery is empty of juice, and the rest is eager to go :sad:
Maybe i should just buy one at Electrex.. i hate to think inside the box :wink:
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lol! yeah,.. that inside the box thing sucks.
Seriously, an RR from a CB400 will do the trick, any chance of swapping for one of those, or finding one that's on ebay? The really important part here is to find a 5 wire RR with approx. the same output. (Or at least not off a significantly smaller bike)
A trickle charger is a beautiful thing in these cases...
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well yes! to summarize, i bought 2 r/r's, one off a Honda CM400 and the other from the CBR600. i did some research on the gsresources forum and the CM400 has a popular r/r, the Shindengen SH232, the extra lead thingie is only a detail. If it worked correctly i'd be riding right now..
Now, i could get another r/r from the guy i got this from, but he's a nice guy and last time we had such a problem with shipping, i don't want to give him all this mess again (and subsequently waiting ANOTHER 2 months!).
I'm not happy at all in going back on ebay and trying to grab another one that can be potentially broken, my bubble has just burst.., gimme time to blow a new one up willya? :wink:
yeah, a trickle charger.. so many expenses, so little income..
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well yes! to summarize, i bought 2 r/r's, one off a Honda CM400 and the other from the CBR600. i did some research on the gsresources forum and the CM400 has a popular r/r, the Shindengen SH232, the extra lead thingie is only a detail. If it worked correctly i'd be riding right now..
Now, i could get another r/r from the guy i got this from, but he's a nice guy and last time we had such a problem with shipping, i don't want to give him all this mess again (and subsequently waiting ANOTHER 2 months!).
I'm not happy at all in going back on ebay and trying to grab another one that can be potentially broken, my bubble has just burst.., gimme time to blow a new one up willya? :wink:
yeah, a trickle charger.. so many expenses, so little income..
oK,.. both of the RRs test in the 20MOHM range? What are the odds?
The CM400 one, did you test it before you put it on the bike? Wow,... 2 months. That's a hell of a long time to wait.
What About a wrecker in your neck of the woods? You know what you're looking for now.
I don't like ebay as a rule. My one and only experience was less than awesome. Nothing like "winning" a bid on a windscreen, and having it arrive with so many stress cracks that you're afraid to put it on, for fear it's going to hit you at speed. I prefer to inspect what I buy before I buy.
True, a trickle charger is an expense, but it may save your battery, if this process takes much longer. There are a few brands out there that I can get from my -dealer- for about $45cdn,... perhaps you can find anohter source for better? what's a battery worth?
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...I caved, i ordered an Electrex R/r, total cost of 95EUR, it's okay i guess and if this one is bad, then at least i have somebody i can shout at. i think it should arrive somewhere next week..
I'll take a look at trickle chargers, 45$cdn seems quite cheap, here reliable ones are easily 70EUR and on up, now if i can find that on ebay? :grin:
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...I caved, i ordered an Electrex R/r, total cost of 95EUR, it's okay i guess and if this one is bad, then at least i have somebody i can shout at. i think it should arrive somewhere next week..
I'll take a look at trickle chargers, 45$cdn seems quite cheap, here reliable ones are easily 70EUR and on up, now if i can find that on ebay? :grin:
Well, good luck with it then. You'll let us know how it all turns out then eh? You are sure that it's the RR causing problems. right? Electrex -could- conceivably say that if something else in the system is fubar, that they won't return the part ( being electrical and all)
Yeah, there are about 3 brands that make these tenders. There's Yuasa, Battery Tender, and one other company, that I can't recall the name of. Battery Tender tends to be a little expensive, but not overly so. Yuasa, you're paying for the name, and dammit if I can remember the name of the company that does the other one. *sigh* They're the ones that do the $45 one. And it's been highly recommended by a few people that "know" batteries and such.
Another place to look is a place that sells batteries, or rebuilds batteries. ( like where I get my UPS batteries from) They should be cheaper than the Dealer is.
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Optimate?
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Optimate?
Uhm,.. I don't think so. It doesn't ring a bell anyway. I have to go into the city today or tomorrow though, perhaps I'll try to pop in and get the name of it.
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Fronius?
or Ctek?
The Fronius ones are around the 100EUR, prolly over..
the ctek's i found one on ebay for a very nice price,.. not sure if i should buy it.. i'll ponder on it somem ore :wink:
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Fronius?
or Ctek?
The Fronius ones are around the 100EUR, prolly over..
the ctek's i found one on ebay for a very nice price,.. not sure if i should buy it.. i'll ponder on it somem ore :wink:
Gah! none of those ring a bell. I'll call the guy tomorrow if I don't make it in to see him. What I have on the sheet that he wrote for me is "OEM" obviously that's not a brand, so I'll find out who's making them for them.
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oh damn... i feel like such an idiot!
So i went ahead and bought the Electrex r/r, right?
i received it some time ago and had to wait till somebody could give me a battery :sad: . Okay, yesterday it finally happened, we hooked up the new one measured the voltage...and it said 0.75V!!
Something i didn't think of was at play here..if you don't connect the black & red to the battery, there is another resistance at the pins of the r/r, hence it will flow considerably less Volts through.
I hooked up the new one on the bike, fired it up with jump cables and measured the Volts on the battery: an ever so stable 13.8V
In other words, the CBR600 r/r is functioning! So now i have one spare i suppose :wink: :duh:
Well, at least now i have only one small thing to concentrate on (cfr. to wait till it arrives here) and then i can finally ride! :banana: :banana: :banana: