Bandit Alley
MODEL SPECIFIC => SUZUKI BANDIT 250 & 400 => Topic started by: GooseMan on April 11, 2007, 11:15:46 PM
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Sorry for my useless posts....but I'm excited!
I took that B4 I was looking at for a little test ride this evening. The seller took me for a ride a bit (I dont have my license yet...so I dont wanna risk taking it out on public streets), and I also got to ride it a bit on a dead-end street.
Alls I gotta say is WOW! I like this bike! Fits me very well, the power is there, but easy to manage, and the brakes work very nicely! :motorsmile:
Only problem was the throttle. The throttle handgrip didnt seem to return to the closed position...like, it didnt have any springiness to it. The seller said its because it was cold outside. I know its not a huge problem...but how can you adjust this? Does it need to be lubricated, or is there a spring somewhere?
Anyway..I put a deposit down so he can hold the bike for me for a few weeks until I get my license. So hopefully I'll be joining you guys as a fellow B4 freak! :taz:
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I'm not buying into the cold story. Most likely, it's one of these issues:
1) The cables just need some lube.
2) It could be a routing issue and there's a bit of a kink. somewhere preventing the springs from returning the throttle.
3) The twist grip could be gunked up enough to prevent return.
4) The twist grip is hanging up on the bar end.
5) Throttle cables need to be replaced.
6) The return springs are shot. (Probably the least likely.)
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:congrats: Those 400s are cool lil bikes :bigok:
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I'm not buying into the cold story. Most likely, it's one of these issues:
1) The cables just need some lube.
2) It could be a routing issue and there's a bit of a kink. somewhere preventing the springs from returning the throttle.
3) The twist grip could be gunked up enough to prevent return.
4) The twist grip is hanging up on the bar end.
5) Throttle cables need to be replaced.
6) The return springs are shot. (Probably the least likely.)
Hmm...I'll have to check it out again. I know when I saw the bike last weekend (the first time) the throttle was sticky...but less than it was today. Hopefully these issues are easy to fix.
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i vote for number 4 easiest and most common
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I'm not buying into the cold story. Most likely, it's one of these issues:
1) The cables just need some lube.
2) It could be a routing issue and there's a bit of a kink. somewhere preventing the springs from returning the throttle.
3) The twist grip could be gunked up enough to prevent return.
4) The twist grip is hanging up on the bar end.
5) Throttle cables need to be replaced.
6) The return springs are shot. (Probably the least likely.)
Hmm...I'll have to check it out again. I know when I saw the bike last weekend (the first time) the throttle was sticky...but less than it was today. Hopefully these issues are easy to fix.
Don't worry, it's easyyy. And if you're really unsure, spend the 20 bucks or whatever on a new cable. Keep in mind that you are talking about a 14-16 year old bike, some things like cables don't improve with age.
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5) Throttle cables need to be replaced.
Just a small thing here,.. the B4 only has one throttle cable. It's not a push-pull like the bigger bandits.
I vote that it's likely cable routing. These little bikes really can be picky about the routing. For instance, route it wrong, and you'll find it that after a rev, the rpms will take a while to come down, or the engine will race or die if the cable is routed wrong (or pinched) and the bars are turned left or right. It's almost like the cable is 1/2" too short, so it has to be bang on, or you'll get that, even with a perfectly good cable.
That said,.. correct routing is in the service manual, that you can find in the Members section.
I find that the easiest way to test to see if the cable and the grip side of things is ok, is to leave it all wired up, and remove the tank (helps to alleviate any pinches or pressure points.) and rotate the throttle a few times with the bike off. roll it on, let go,... does it snap back? roll back slowly? Stay put? Stop prematurely? That'll give you a really good idea as to where to start.
Don't worry, you're not going to flood the engine for the next time you turn it on or anything, the juice only flows when there's vacuum pressure. :motorsmile:
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:congrats: Those 400s are cool lil bikes :bigok:
Have you ever seen one in person? Still got ours here, you can meet her this weekend if we meet up for coffee. ;) She loves this cold air too... goes like stink. (and as many carborated bikes - is a little stinky doing it. :roll: )
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(a premature) :welcome:
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Well, the thing is it doesnt have any bar ends (youre talking about the screw-in bar end weights? there arent any).
I guess when I get the bike, I'll check the entire cable...probably replace it anyway...as it is cheap/easy to replace.
Any other good advice for maintenence? I'm going to change all the fluids ASAP, of course. I was thinking of a carb sync and cleaning..but I really know NOTHING about carbs, and I'm scared to take em out and mess with them, because, frankly, the bike seems to be starting up and running perfectly, so I dont want to mess with anything.
Can I spray carb cleaner into the carbs with the engine running? I know I've used "throttle body cleaner" on my cars before...I dunno if its the same for bikes. I know thats not a "real" carb clean..but its better than nothing, no?
The seller also mentioned theres a small oil leak, I believe where the clutch cover is. He showed me a small stain where the bikes been sitting the past 6 months, so it seems to be like a slow leak...like a drop here and there. Are gaskets readily available for the Bandit? That seems easy to fix...just take the clutch cover off and replace the gasket....right?
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You could use a spray cleaner, but it won't get you much. I think you'd be better off using something in the fuel, like Seafoam or Techron, that way you do more than clean the throat and get something in the tiny fuel passage which is what's much more likely to give you problems.
The gasket change sould be simple.
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I took that B4 I was looking at for a little test ride this evening. The seller took me for a ride a bit (I dont have my license yet...so I dont wanna risk taking it out on public streets), and I also got to ride it a bit on a dead-end street.
I guess the fact that I've been riding for 4 years w/o a license and an expired temporary is a bad idea???
Otherwise, you're getting some good advice here Goose. Do as I say, not as I do.
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Hehhehe....yeah, I just wanna keep it legal. I dont mind taking it slow (its a BITCH to get your license here in Quebec)..It's my first bike, so I'd like to learn the ropes, keep it safe etc...
Thanks for all the help so far guys! :D
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I think you'd be better off using something in the fuel, like Seafoam or Techron, that way you do more than clean the throat and get something in the tiny fuel passage which is what's much more likely to give you problems.
The gasket change sould be simple.
Yup,.. seafoam rocks! This is the first year I've stored the bike and not had to take the carbs off to clean after the storage. And she hasn't been started for more than 6 months!!
Parts are available from places like BikeBandit, and Mr Motorcycles, usually for much better than stealer prices. ( especially canadian stealer prices, who I'm stuck with)
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Yeah...I dont even wanna know about Canadian prices...*shudder*
That seafoam stuff looks pretty cool. It says you can put some in your gas tank...but also in your engine oil? And it says to pour it directly into the carbs...is that right? :shock:
http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUpTechGas.htm
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Yeah...I dont even wanna know about Canadian prices...*shudder*
That seafoam stuff looks pretty cool. It says you can put some in your gas tank...but also in your engine oil? And it says to pour it directly into the carbs...is that right? :shock:
http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUpTechGas.htm
If you pour it right into the gas,.. it will get into the carbs,.. promise. ;) No disassembly required that way. If you're reluctant to take the carbs off,.. the airbox isn't much more fun... doable,.. but not really at the top of my list of things to do with spare time... :motorsmile:
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I guess when I get the bike, I'll check the entire cable...probably replace it anyway...as it is cheap/easy to replace.
The seller also mentioned theres a small oil leak, I believe where the clutch cover is. He showed me a small stain where the bikes been sitting the past 6 months, so it seems to be like a slow leak...like a drop here and there. Are gaskets readily available for the Bandit? That seems easy to fix...just take the clutch cover off and replace the gasket....right?
it's not easy to replace :bomb: , it's really an frustrating job to attach the cable to the carbs. but if you anticipate taking 30 minutes instead of 1 minute for just attaching the cable to the carbs then at least you are prepared :lol:
if the price for the gasket is high or unavailable, you could always use silicon gasket. which is much cheaper anyways...
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Check the tank and see how much rust it has. Get a pro opinion on this if you're not sure (it's not always easy to tell HOW much). If the tank is pretty rusted, either elect to get the inside coated with KREEM or similar, or replace the tank if you can find a good one somewhere. If you need/want to replace it but can't find one soon enough, get it Kreemed.
Get the carbs completely cleaned at a shop (if you don't know how to do it yourself). This is especially so if the tank is hosed, but I would do it regardless. Get an inline fuel filter installed.
Assuming nothing major is wrong with the bike, these two areas can be potentially problematic is not addressed. Fuel delivery is probably the B4's most common problem.
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Cool..thanks for all the tips guys!
Yeah...I keep forgetting to check the inside of the tank :duh: I looked in it breifly once, but forgot to really check...I'll e-mail the guy.
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Whatever you do, do not coat your tank with Kreem. Some people have great success but I can attest to the latter.
The Kreem in my tank is failing as we speak and it was done by a shop, not by one of the previous owners. Pretty much, it looks like someone skimped or otherwise on the prep as it's coming off in sheets, revealing rusted metal underneath. After going into the tank via the gascap with some long tongs, I was able to pull out most of the bits and have started using a fuel filter as the rust forms a very fine sediment inside the tank. This will form into a light red sludge in the bottom of your float bowls and just make a mess of your carbs (did the clean-up last fall)
I haven't gone forward and redone it yet because it is even worse to re-do than to do right the first time. It's a messy, messy job to re-do hence me balking. When I get off my lazy ass though, I'll be going directly for the POR-15 kit.
-Randy
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Whatever you do, do not coat your tank with Kreem. Some people have great success but I can attest to the latter.
... I'll be going directly for the POR-15 kit.
-Randy
I've heard that exact same thing about 8 times before now. I've NEVER heard a complaint from someone who's used POR-15 (though, there are fewer of those people out there too... and they tend to be a bit smarter, as it's not a readily available/highly advertised kit and they had to put forth the effort to find it or learn about it).
Good luck with the recoat. If you don't mind repainting the tank and have a radiator shop with a dip tank (getting rare these days), that's a QUICK and easy way to remove Everything from the metal.
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I'm a firm believer of Kreem have had mine in my race bike for 4-5 years now and i run oxygenated VP race fuel and have some time not drained my fuel out with out it turning my Kreem to a gooey mess.
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I also had good luck with Kreem. It's lasted at least 4 years. I'm starting to think about getting the tank re-lined. If I was doing it again though I'd use por-15. I've used thier preventive rust paint and the stuff was amazing. I'd image the tank liner would be great as well.
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Hmmm....good info guys. I'll check into both.
Also...about the sticky throttle...what makes the throttle (grip) snap back into position? Is there a spring in the grip itself...or a spring on the carbs? (did I ask this already?)
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It's on the carbs. The spring itself being the problem would be very rare. The most likely culprit is either an old unlubricated cable or the routing of the cable itself. B4's seem to be very picky about that, at least in my experience.
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As someone else said, I'll bet on the stickyness being in the throttle tube. Two things can happen. First, gunk can build up under the tube making it stick to the bars. Easily fixed by removing the throttle and cleaning everything well. Or, if the locator pin in the throttle housing has been removed, the throttle can move inward a little and the grip can slip off the end of the tube and bind up on the bar. Also easily fixed. A sticky cable is a close second likely cause.
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Another quick question...
This bike has fairly high mileage (56,000 km or roughly 30,000 miles).I dont think the sprockets and/or chain have ever been replaced. I have quickly checked them before, but if its something relatively inexpensive, I think it would be a good idea to change them.
Should I just ask my local shop for these? And reccomendations? I'd like to stick to stock sizes...dont need anything fancy. I found "SprocketSpecialists" by doing a search here..are they any good? Are sprockets pretty standard stuff...or will they be hard to find, like most other B4 parts?
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Are sprockets pretty standard stuff...or will they be hard to find, like most other B4 parts?
The front sprocket, from the factory, has a rubber bushing on it,... it keeps things a little quieter. If you're not too concerned about that,.. a stock replacement sprocket can be ordered from nearly any aftermarket company that makes sprockets.
The rear sprocket is available aftermarket as well, and the chain is -definately- available aftermarket, just make sure you get the right size.
If the street bikes are anything like the dirtbikes, you usually buy the bike, and take the chain off, and replace it with aftermarket right away. So,.. don't worry about aftermarket at all.
The only reason I'm not sure about the quality of the chains on streetbikes, is that my 919 came with an aftermarket already on it, and Dita required a chain change, and one became available at exactly the right time. Thanks Pitter. :wink:
Perhaps if r_outsider comes back, he'll tell you more about my chains. :wink:
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30,000 miles :shock:
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Chain and Sprockets are "relatively" inexpensive. Likely in the $250 CAN range, but if their not yet worn out, it is not necessary to repace them.
The easiest way to check the chain is to take all the slack out of the chain by holding it up with your left foot while pulling the chain straight off the back if the rear sprocket with your right hand. If the chain can be pulled 1/2 a tooth or more, it is finished and should be replaced. 1/3 tooth is worn, but useable, 1/4 tooth or less, keep using it, it still has some life left.
Also check the rear sprocket. If the teeth are looking pointed, and/or there is a different shape on the leading edge of the tooth vs the trailing edge, the sprockets are worn out.
Either way, change both the sprockets and the chain at the same time.
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30,000 miles :shock:
That's not that bad! :stickpoke: Dita's got about 31K miles ( She's 80kms away from turning 50K kms) and she's running strong. We've been into the engine, but only because we thought she needed a camchain. Turns out the valves needed some tlc. While we were in there though, looking at the cylinders revealed that you could still see the crosshatch on the walls.
edit: Realistically speaking, 56K is not a lot for a 14 -16 yr old bike. That's what? Between 3500 and 4000 kms a year? I put more than that on this bike both years I've ridden her. It's just a scary looking number. If she's well taken care of,.. she''ll be an awesome little bike for you.
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my engine did 53.000 km's my bike did only 35.000 km's :roll:
chain+sprockets can be found for cheap on ebay
(on ebay.de you can find complete bandit400 sets for less then €100)
ofcourse those have some more friction then expensive chains (with x-rings and stuff), but you can also find more expensive ones one ebay which are still cheaper then in store...
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Maybe its just me i destroy bikes before that mileage
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Hehehe...yeah, 56K seems like a lot, but she starts up fine, and runs pretty good. I'm no expert, but I gave her a good run thru the gears and she seemed to pull fine up to 10,000 rpm (didnt have enough road to go over).
But I think its time for a valve clearance check, and a good carb clean/sync.
Thats my next question (this thread is gonna turn into the "maintaining a used bandit FAQ" thread! :lol: )..
I downloaded the factory service manual, and read over the part about checking valve clearances. It tells you how to remove the vavle cover, and line up the valves correctly to check the clearances...but it doesnt really explain WHERE to check (I understand engines relatively well...but what are we checking here? The camshaft lobes on the valves?)...nor does it really explain HOW to adjust them (where is the adjustment screw exactly?).....does this all become more obvious once its being done?
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If someone offered you a '93 Toyota with 30,000 miles on it, would you consider that a lot of mileage? Unless you're beating the crap out of the bike (as apparently Jay seems to do :stickpoke: ), a well-maintained bike should easily get as much mileage as you would from a car. Maybe even more. Touring bikes typically go over 100,000 miles.
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I downloaded the factory service manual, and read over the part about checking valve clearances. It tells you how to remove the vavle cover, and line up the valves correctly to check the clearances...but it doesnt really explain WHERE to check (I understand engines relatively well...but what are we checking here? The camshaft lobes on the valves?)...nor does it really explain HOW to adjust them (where is the adjustment screw exactly?).....does this all become more obvious once its being done?
there is only 1 place you can check the clearance :stickpoke:
once you remove the cover and you try you'll see that :wink:
to adjust them you need to loosen the bolt on top and turn the square (which also is on top) to make the valve higher or lower. then tighten the bolt again and double check the clearance...
Maybe its just me i destroy bikes before that mileage
your engines are probably used a little bit more heavy on the gas and a bit more tuned then most :wink:
after 53k km's i notice my 6th gear is making some noise (cos its used most on the highway) besides that its still pretty good :bandit:
a well-maintained bike should easily get as much mileage as you would from a car. Maybe even more. Touring bikes typically go over 100,000 miles.
sorry but this is not true (not to say bull shit :lol: )
most cars dont rev beyond 7k and most touring bikes dont rev beyond 10k. that makes alot of difference!!
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Plus there is alittle thing called compression ratio wich cars are way low bikes are upwards of around 12:1
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Maybe its just me i destroy bikes before that mileage
LOL! Your bike is used in -slightly- different conditions than most of us "mortal" folk. :wink:
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:clap:
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My bandit's done 67,901km and is still going strong (I just have to get the thermo switches back in and put it back together...).
One simple thing worth checking is to make sure the radiator fan turns freely. When I got mine, it wasn't until the temperature warning light came on that I realised my fan wasn't going. If I remember correctly, a stone had gotten stuck in the bottom corner of the fan shroud and radiator and had stopped the fan from turning and so the fan motor had rusted up.
I'm currently having to replace my thermo switches for the radiator fan and warning light, not sure if it's related to the fan failing and the engine overheating, or if it's just because they're old.
My bike is a 1993 Bandit.
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my radiator fan hasnt turned on the first 2 years ive owned my bandit :shock:
it was just last summer on a really hot day (for the Netherlands :lol: ) when i wasnt driving fast so it didnt have much cooling it turned on for the first time.
nowadays its more often turned on... guess my average rev is higher nowadays :bandit: or i should get new coolant.
never had the warning light come on though (except before the motor is started to show the light istn broken)
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Maybe its just me i destroy bikes before that mileage
LOL! Your bike is used in -slightly- different conditions than most of us "mortal" folk. :wink:
Well I was talking a coons age ago (what a word) I had a 250 ninja that spent most of its life on one wheel I wheelied that thing at every light on the strip up down up down went through three motors before i decided to not put it together anymore .
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>>sorry but this is not true...most cars dont rev beyond 7k and most touring bikes dont rev beyond 10k. that makes alot of difference!!<<Yes>>Plus there is alittle thing called compression ratio wich cars are way low bikes are upwards of around 12:1<<
Before the age of unleaded gas, some cars would have ratios that high. Again I think it's how hard you push them that dictates how long they'll survive. :wink:
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For some reason my post above is corrupted. What I was saying about the first quote is:
Yes, but I think it has more to do with HOW you rev it up past those numbers that dictate how long the bike will last.
Somehow it just all keeps getting lumped together. Weird.
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For some reason my post above is corrupted. <snip>
Somehow it just all keeps getting lumped together. Weird.
I suspect it has to do with the < > symbols you use to denote quotes. Those are reserved in html, and phpBB uses a messed up version of html,... so you may be running into a "glitch" because of it.
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Maybe its just me i destroy bikes before that mileage
LOL! Your bike is used in -slightly- different conditions than most of us "mortal" folk. :wink:
Well I was talking a coons age ago (what a word) I had a 250 ninja that spent most of its life on one wheel I wheelied that thing at every light on the strip up down up down went through three motors before i decided to not put it together anymore .
LMAO!
OK class! I think Jay just proved our point. :stickpoke: Rev the crap outta it,.. it self destructs. I don't do a lot of that,... a little, not much, and the honing is still clear on my cylinder walls. Jay does tons, and his engines blow up. I'm thinking it's not the engine design that's a problem... :motorsmile:
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For some reason my post above is corrupted. <snip>
Somehow it just all keeps getting lumped together. Weird.
I suspect it has to do with the < > symbols you use to denote quotes. Those are reserved in html, and phpBB uses a messed up version of html,... so you may be running into a "glitch" because of it.
In which case you'd be better off running BBCode, that seems to work glitch-free (most of the time... we did have a problem with the quoting feature a while back, but it seems to be OK now).
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Huh, wonder why my 1986 VFR750 (11:1 compression) went to 119k miles without an issue. The person I sold it to put the bike in AMHRA races and started winning with it right off the bat.
An engine life has everything to do with how it's abused/cared for (with a little bit of materials use to build it), and hardly anything to do with compression ratio or RPM limits.
My VFR spent time as a commuter, cross-country tourer and track-day toy (when I was between racebikes, or had to ride a good distance to get to whatever track I was going to play on). It was Well used, but also well cared for. And before you try to say that it was a "tourer", http://www.motorcyclemuseum.org/classics/bike.asp?id=22 ~ the same bike (in race/HRC trim) won 3 different AMA championships.
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How many people spent their street time over 10k on a continuous basis anyway? I typically average between 6-8k, closer to 6k.
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I dunno...when I took it for a test ride, I "floored it" to around 8-10K rpm and it was PLENTY fast for me! I wouldnt see the need to go any higher.
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GOOD NEWS!
I got an e-mail from the seller...he said he found the problem with the sticky throttle. There is this "cruise control" throttle lock clamp installed on the bike (is this stock?), which wasnt working properly....jamming up the throttle a bit. So he just removed it and it works great now!
He was also kind enought to replace the brake fluid and bleed the brakes...woohoo! :D
:motorsmile:
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That lock isn't stock but it's a fairly common aftermarket piece for people that do a lot of highway riding.
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"Cruise control" is an aftermarket add-on. Pretty cheap to add, should you want to add it later.
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"Cruise control" is an aftermarket add-on. Pretty cheap to add, should you want to add it later.
Slow typer!
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I was doing it with one hand while I eat my lunch. :tongue:
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Alright...back again with more questions...
Someone on my local forums is selling a pair of new Micheling Pilot Power tires, 160-60-17 REAR and 120-70-17 FRONT.
I understand that the rears should work (one size wider than stock)....will they rub the rear hugger or anything else?
As for the front, it's wider and a higher profile than stock...will this pose any major problems? I guess I'll get a slight speedometer error...but will I get weird handling or anything?
Also...are these tires too racy for a n00b? For my first season, I dont think I'll reach the potential of these tires...but I would like to be safe. I'm kinda concerned about dusty roads and paint lines etc...and I'm wondering if I should get a more grooved tire.
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Sounds like the perfect set for a 2G 600...
Check Michelin's web site for suggested and acceptable widths. This thread may help as well. http://forums.banditalley.net/viewtopic.php?t=8392
A taller and wider front WILL slow down the steering. A wider rear will also be taller, so check the clearance to the hugger.
If you don't need the real "sticky" sport tires, the Pilot ROADS make a good sport/touring tire.
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+1
160 rear will fit without any problems.
pilot powers will give good grip so will be safe, they just wont last as long as pilot roads.
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I dont see the correct front tire size for any Michelin tires (110/60/17)!! :shock:
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A stock Bandit 400 should run 110/70 and 150/60. Anything fits but it will just handle like shit. If you want pointy tires, buy SuperCorsa.
Apart from that, I swear by Michelin Pilot Power. I've been using them ever since I've thrown off the BT45's that were mounted when I bought the bike. The only other tires I would want on public roads are SuperCorsa/Rennsport or Pilot Power 2CT :beers:
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If you run bigger tires and cant figure out why you still have chicken stripe's its because your tires are to big for the rim by the time you use all the tire that is to big for the rim crash is eminent. Big tire require big rims and the chassis and geometry to go with them. But hey first hand knowledge is always better so go for it.
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Hmmm..then I'll stick with the stock sizes then.
BTW----just had her delivered! Shes safe and snug at home!!! :welcome: :bandit: :motorsmile:
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If you run bigger tires and cant figure out why you still have chicken stripe's its because your tires are to big for the rim
So.,.. apparently for me, stock is too big for the rim! :rofl:
BTW----just had her delivered! Shes safe and snug at home!!! :welcome: :bandit: :motorsmile:
Congrats!! Now the work begins! When will you go for your license? You know, in Alberta, if you have a driver's license, for a car, you can ride with a licensed rider, to get practice, before you take the test. Might be worth looking into for where you are.
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If you have chicken strips on the Rear, but not the front (or vice versa), then it's suspension (and most notabily ride height). Strips should be about equal on the front and rear.
Most bikes (people) run out of front before they run out of rear, the fix for this is more rear ride height.
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If you have chicken strips on the Rear, but not the front (or vice versa), then it's suspension (and most notably ride height). Strips should be about equal on the front and rear.
Most bikes (people) run out of front before they run out of rear, the fix for this is more rear ride height.
Brian why don't you start a suspension sticky with informative stuff like that in it . Id like to here more mostly what i know if hard learned lessons and stuff from the traxxion D bible. Oh and i have a ohlins hand out and my penske book.
cheers
jay
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BTW----just had her delivered! Shes safe and snug at home!!! :welcome: :bandit: :motorsmile:
Congrats!! Now the work begins! When will you go for your license? You know, in Alberta, if you have a driver's license, for a car, you can ride with a licensed rider, to get practice, before you take the test. Might be worth looking into for where you are.
Well, here in Quebec, we have a few (complicated!) steps:
-Pass a written exam (easy...did it in 10 mins). Get your Class 6R. This allows you to ride in an approved riding course, which is MANDATORY
-Take the mandatory course (18 hours in a parking lot, and 4 hrs on the road)...which is similar to the MSF course. I just finished my course last weekend. :D
-Do a closed-circuit test at the license bureau. This is just a short test to see that you are able to control a bike. Ride in a circle, emergency stops, negotiate a curve etc....all in a parking lot, below 30 km/h. This is the test I'm going for next Thursday.
-Once you pass this test, you get your 6A Permit. With this, you are allowed to ride ONLY alongside another rider whi has 2+ years experience. You must have this permit for 7 months. This really SUCKS because if you want to practice, even around your home, you MUST call a buddy to come over and ride with them. :roll:
-After your 7-months, you go back to the license bureau and take a road test. The tester will follow behind you and give you instructions via a headset. This is a one hour test, on the road. Once you pass this, you get your full license and can ride alone. :D But if you fail, you must wait 56 DAYS before taking the test again :duh:
So its a long process....but at least its good for learning and being safe. But its still a pain in the ass!
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Most bikes (people) run out of front before they run out of rear, the fix for this is more rear ride height.
i guess i'm not most people as ive got almost none left at the rear (160 tire on original rim) and "plenty" at the front, but then again my B4 is raised about 5cm at the rear :bandit:
Well, here in Quebec, we have a few (complicated!) steps:
-Pass a written exam (easy...did it in 10 mins). Get your Class 6R. This allows you to ride in an approved riding course, which is MANDATORY
-Take the mandatory course (18 hours in a parking lot, and 4 hrs on the road)...which is similar to the MSF course. I just finished my course last weekend. :D
-Do a closed-circuit test at the license bureau. This is just a short test to see that you are able to control a bike. Ride in a circle, emergency stops, negotiate a curve etc....all in a parking lot, below 30 km/h. This is the test I'm going for next Thursday.
-Once you pass this test, you get your 6A Permit. With this, you are allowed to ride ONLY alongside another rider whi has 2+ years experience. You must have this permit for 7 months. This really SUCKS because if you want to practice, even around your home, you MUST call a buddy to come over and ride with them. :roll:
-After your 7-months, you go back to the license bureau and take a road test. The tester will follow behind you and give you instructions via a headset. This is a one hour test, on the road. Once you pass this, you get your full license and can ride alone. :D But if you fail, you must wait 56 DAYS before taking the test again :duh:
So its a long process....but at least its good for learning and being safe. But its still a pain in the ass!
at least you can start driving at age 16....
here you need to be 18 :stickpoke:
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Good grief!! What crack addict decided on those time frames? 7 months? 56 days? I do like the idea of a -mandatory- skills class though. That would sure lower the number of people that wobble around, and can't manage their vehicles.
I have a funny feeling that your new riders there are slightly more skilled on average than ours are though. In fact, I'd like to see the crash statistics for fully licensed riders in their first 2 years, between us and you...
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I wouldnt see the need to go any higher.
You will....
A good ride through fast sweepers, I'll spend 90% of my time between 9-13K.
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I like the mandatory classes too, because I would have NO idea how to ride otherwise....and I'd rather learn on THIER bikes, and not my own!
Actually, I was reading something yesterday about it, and it said Quebec made classes mandatory in 1985 (I think) and then stopped in 1997. From 1997 to 2000 when the requirement was dropped, fatalities increased by 46%!!!!! :shock:
http://www.safety-council.org/info/traffic/tng.html
Interesting!
More interesting Canadian statisctics here http://www.safety-council.org/info/traffic/mtp.html
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Most bikes (people) run out of front before they run out of rear, the fix for this is more rear ride height.
That's what I was thinking about since I have the same 'problem'. I'm running a 120/70 front tire on a 3.5 inch rim and a 150/60 rear on a 4.0 inch rim. Front is all rounded but the rear stays behind. If I push the bike down more, sometimes even past the point of dragging stuff, the front starts drifting and just after that the rear starts too :taz: Gotta love them Michelin's :bigok:
The bike is raised by using a RGV 250 swinger and a GSXR 750 '92 rear shock. About 30 mm's compared to stock if I'm not mistaken. Less than when it was raised by just using a GSXR 750 '02 shock, which was too much anyway. The front is lowered by 1.5 mm compared to a stock Bandit. I'm running 120/70 instead of 110/70 and I have the forks lowered 5 mm's through the tripples.
Front tire (http://members.home.nl/herrtod/Bandit/Misc/Front-tire.jpg)
Rear tire (http://members.home.nl/herrtod/Bandit/Misc/Rear-tire.jpg)
Yeah I know, they needed replacement :boohoo:
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well a 120 goes on a 3.5 rim i was saying 120 on a whatever it is 3.0 or 2.5 the bandit comes stock with and a 160 on a 4.5 i have a 160 or 165 mounted to a 5.5 is some one want to see that lol
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I like the mandatory classes too, because I would have NO idea how to ride otherwise....and I'd rather learn on THIER bikes, and not my own!
Actually, I was reading something yesterday about it, and it said Quebec made classes mandatory in 1985 (I think) and then stopped in 1997. From 1997 to 2000 when the requirement was dropped, fatalities increased by 46%!!!!! :shock:
http://www.safety-council.org/info/traffic/tng.html
Interesting!
More interesting Canadian statisctics here http://www.safety-council.org/info/traffic/mtp.html
I totally believe that. I'd also like to see a component on basic maintenance as well. Things like,... it's reaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaallllly important to maintain and check your chain for correct tension.
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Gonna scrutinize my chain this weekend!
Hey...anyone know the correct size of the holes in the front brake discs? I'm looking to get a disc lock...and they seem to come in 5.5mm and 10mm sizes...
???
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Gonna scrutinize my chain this weekend!
Good Boy! :)
Hey...anyone know the correct size of the holes in the front brake discs? I'm looking to get a disc lock...and they seem to come in 5.5mm and 10mm sizes...
???
I would guess the former, but someone here will know.
If you do get the disk lock, make SURE you leave yourself a reminder that it's on. Some locks come with a "String" or similar to run up to the handlebars. If yours doesn't, make sure you remind yourself some other way. If you should try to roll the bike with the disklock on, it can end very badly - Damage to the rotor, a tip over, or worse if you're trying to start out and are ON the bike... :shock:
Also, use it religiously. Don't sometimes use it and sometimes not. You need to be in the habit, and don't let yourself get lazy. The one time you leave it off, is when the bike will disappear.
Yes,.. this is from experience.
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well a 120 goes on a 3.5 rim i was saying 120 on a whatever it is 3.0 or 2.5 the bandit comes stock with and a 160 on a 4.5 i have a 160 or 165 mounted to a 5.5 is some one want to see that lol
Bandit comes stock with a 3.0 front rim and a 4.0 rear rim. Running 110/70-Z17 and 150/70-Z17.
A 160 on a 5.5 rim? On your car you mean??? :shock: Has to be as flat as a dead man's heartbeat :bomb:
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A 160 on a 5.5 rim? On your car you mean??? :shock: Has to be as flat as a dead man's heartbeat :bomb:
For some reason, I have no problem picturing a harley guy trying that one out...
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Thanks for all the info guys!
Oh...heres a good question...what kinda gas should I be using? Since its a high compression engine, should I just use 91-94 octane?
And stormi--where did you get that Seafoam stuff in Canada (or where did you order it in the US)?
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[If you should try to roll the bike with the disklock on, it can end very badly
I'm guilty of this, just rolling the bike slowly, though, so no damage. Kind of embarrasing, nevertheless.
What are these "chicken strips" referred to earlier in the thread?
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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chicken_strips
Octane: Link (http://forums.banditalley.net/viewtopic.php?t=5278&highlight=octane)
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Groovy ;)
Hey...maybe I'll have to come visit you in Toronto one of these days. My g/f is from there, so I'm in TO usually once a month.
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The smallest hole (not on the rotor/braking surface) is 10.5mm, everything else is larger.
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The smallest hole (not on the rotor/braking surface) is 10.5mm, everything else is larger.
Say what?
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Bandit comes stock with a 3.0 front rim and a 4.0 rear rim. Running 110/70-Z17 and 150/70-Z17.
A 160 on a 5.5 rim? On your car you mean??? :shock: Has to be as flat as a dead man's heartbeat :bomb:
cool good to know !
Yes i have a few 160 tires that i use on the race bike for special occasions. Want to see some pics?
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yup :stickpoke:
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165/17 i was wrong but still on a 5.5"
(http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/921/tires003pg6.jpg)
(http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/5858/tires004sr8.jpg)
another 165 tire
(http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/9518/tires005gr2.jpg)
You remember the CDI flower right well this is my tire tree seems to be growing real well this year maybe due to the fact that i've not been plucking the fruit from it this year yet lol.
(http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/1874/tires006uq5.jpg)
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Thanks for all the info guys!
Oh...heres a good question...what kinda gas should I be using? Since its a high compression engine, should I just use 91-94 octane?
89 octane. Regular gas.
And stormi--where did you get that Seafoam stuff in Canada (or where did you order it in the US)?
Napa carries it,.. and I bet even crappy tire does too.
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hmm...none at crappy tire...but I'll keep looking!
Oh...heres another question. According to the manual, it says to change the o-ring when changing the oil filter (I guess the o-ring gasket on the oil filter cover). Is this necassary? If so...is that o-ring gasket easy to find?
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usually comes with the aftermarket oil filter i think factory oil filter you have to order the gasket seperate
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Groovy ;)
Hey...maybe I'll have to come visit you in Toronto one of these days. My g/f is from there, so I'm in TO usually once a month.
Com'on down... If you bring the bike that would be a riot. I've only ever seen one other one on the road. Even if you bring the car I'm always up for pints.
Same offer goes to anyone else visiting T.O.
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[If you should try to roll the bike with the disklock on, it can end very badly
I'm guilty of this, just rolling the bike slowly, though, so no damage. Kind of embarrasing, nevertheless.
Yup,.. I did too,.. really slow,.. then she stopped, and almost tipped over,... into the side of the truck.
On that note,.. I was also just using one of those padlocks you can buy from the hardware store, that has a slightly longer loop on it,... much cheaper than a disk lock, and probably just about as much of a visual deterent...
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Put it on the rear rotor :wink:
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When I use a disk lock I always put a rare earth magnet over the keyhole of the igintion. To remind myself that there's going to be a problem if I start trying to drive away. I haven't had a problem since...
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I just got the disc lock reminder (yellow coiled cord) thingy....it was only $5. Yeah, I know I coulda made my own or picked something up at the dollar store, but I just ordered $600 worth of gear (jacket, pants etc..) so whats an extra $5? :wink:
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If I want to change the sprockets/chain, do I have to drop the swingarm? Or is it OK to get a chain with a master link?
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yes ok its not a 1000
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also you dont have to drop the swingarm if you dont use a chain with masterlink :stickpoke:
just cut the old one and put the new one on
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yeah, I can cut the old one off...but how will you get the new one on? ;) (if its a one-peice endless chain)
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They don't come endless they come with a rivitable link in them which you need to squeeze on.
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ah..k...good! :D
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here is a little trick of the day: After you cut the chain off dont take it off hook the new chain to the old chain with the rivit link and pull the new one through just saved yourself a half hour.
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good trick :clap:
to bad it doesnt save half an hour but only 5 minutes :stickpoke:
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for me....thats half an hour :lol:
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good trick :clap:
to bad it doesn't save half an hour but only 5 minutes :stickpoke:
So your saying you take the shifter off the shaft loosen all the bolts to the cover slide your chain through bolt it all back up and tighten the shifter down in five minutes! Hold on i got a phone call! Hey your not going to believe it , I have Rizzla Suzuki on the phone and they are trying to get a hold of you. I forwarded them your contact info and they should be contacting you shortly. :stickpoke:
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Maybe the Rizzla pit team should quit using their sponser's product. :bandit:
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:taz:
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OK....tonite my mission is to get the bike on the center stand! (yes, I read how to do it on the forums....but I just cant seem to get it! :duh: )
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OK....tonite my mission is to get the bike on the center stand! (yes, I read how to do it on the forums....but I just cant seem to get it! :duh: )
It's a real pain the first few times. Or,.. if you're 5'4" like me,.. it's a pain always.
Here's what I've found works:
Standing on the left side of the bike:
Step on the centerstand, and rock the bike to the right, until it rests on -both- pegs of the centerstand. <- this is very important, this way you're only fighting gravity one way.
Now, grab ahold of the grab rail, under her tail, with your right hand, while your left hand is gripping the left bar, which you've turned all the way to the left lock (all the way to the left)
Rock her backward, even a few times, while shoving down on the centerstand, with your foot. (In fact, you're sort of trying to help with your foot, to make the centerstand go down, and even a touch forward in it's throw) The net effect of this is that the bike will sort of be attempting to "roll" over the centerstand, with the result being that she'll hop up on top of it.
When you rock her back, she'll go back forward, just like when you're rocking a car out of a snow bank. Use that momentum. Back and forth back and forth back and forth back,.. hop.
The first few times, you might want to have someone there to help you stabilize her though, because you can lean her too far to the right, and then you'll land on top of her when she falls on her side.
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Good tips! I'll try that next time! I'm all sweaty and frustrated now...lol
I think my main problem is that my garage has a super smooth cement floor, so when I pull the bike up/back, the centerstand just slides across the floor, so I cant roll her up onto the stand. It's really pissing me off!
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Good tips! I'll try that next time! I'm all sweaty and frustrated now...lol
I think my main problem is that my garage has a super smooth cement floor, so when I pull the bike up/back, the centerstand just slides across the floor, so I cant roll her up onto the stand. It's really pissing me off!
See, I guess that's where I'm "lucky", in that I don't have a smooth garage floor, just plastic floors, and wood floors in sheds.. :wink:
Sounds like you're pulling back too hard, and not stepping down hard enough. Really, this motion is mostly in the stepping down. The rocking motion is mostly supplementary.
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If you know someone else with a bike get them to show you. It's really quite easy once you figure it out. Most of the action comes from your right leg... and a little bit of lift action from your arms. Make sure the handle bars are straight... You can do it.
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I'll keep trying. I feel like such a wuss! :lol: Theres two other guys in my building that have bikes...with centerstands, so I'm sure they can help out.
One question...should I be pushing my right foot on the centerstand foot-peg? Or the legs of the centerstand itself?
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I'll keep trying. I feel like such a wuss! :lol: Theres two other guys in my building that have bikes...with centerstands, so I'm sure they can help out.
One question...should I be pushing my right foot on the centerstand foot-peg? Or the legs of the centerstand itself?
Believe it or not, this isn't about strength, it's all technique, and it gets easier with practice. :)
Step on the centerstand peg. If you were to be stepping on the centerstand legs and your foot slipped, you might find yourself in a world of hurt.
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Actually, the B4 does require a bit more effort than my 650 Hawk GT did to get up on the centerstand. Stormi's right, it's more about pushing down with your foot, and you have to not only pull back on the grab rail, but upward as well.
The smooth floor does exacerbate things a bit. I had some trouble using the centerstand on an oily patch in the garage (sliding), but when I moved the bike over to clean concrete, she popped right up (with the requisite amount of elbow grease, of course).
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good trick :clap:
to bad it doesn't save half an hour but only 5 minutes :stickpoke:
So your saying you take the shifter off the shaft loosen all the bolts to the cover slide your chain through bolt it all back up and tighten the shifter down in five minutes! Hold on i got a phone call! Hey your not going to believe it , I have Rizzla Suzuki on the phone and they are trying to get a hold of you. I forwarded them your contact info and they should be contacting you shortly. :stickpoke:
yup, it are only 4-5 bolts to loosen and to tighten afterwards. plus a bit of time to insert the chain. can be done in 5 minutes. when your using airtools you can save another minute :bomb:
btw i prefer to work at team suzuki nederland, so give them my info if they also decide to call you :wink:
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Will do bro :motorsmile:
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can be done in 5 minutes
I'm with Jay on this one...it take me 5 minutes just to find the tools in the tool box and put the bike on the centrestand. :stickpoke:
Point taken however, it's not a big deal to take the side cover off, AND you should be checking and/or changing the countershaft sprocket if your putting on a new chain.
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Point taken however, it's not a big deal to take the side cover off, AND you should be checking and/or changing the countershaft sprocket if your putting on a new chain.
The boys on the Rizla team musta spaced that out. :wink:
(http://www.hg420.com/gallery/data/500/2Joint-med.jpg)
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Is it possible to buy a new OEM air filter for the B4? I see the K&N one all over the place, but not the stock...
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Is it possible to buy a new OEM air filter for the B4? I see the K&N one all over the place, but not the stock...
The oem filter is a foam filter. It should be cleaned, not replaced, unless it's damaged.
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K....but just in case?
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they tend to turn to dust with age the oem ones
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K....but just in case?
check here www.bikebandit.com
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K....but just in case?
It won't go spontaneously,.. you'll know when it happens. ;)
In addition to Bike Bandit, there's also Mr Motorcycles, mrcycles.com, they're typically cheaper.
Alternatively, there are also members that occasionally part bikes.
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Cool..thanks!
Another question...anyone know a good replacement pipe for the B4? Mines a bit old...you can tell its been patched up a few times, and there seems to be another hole growing on the side :sad:
If I get an aftermarket pipe, will it affect the bike in anyway (re-jet the carbs etc)? Would a stock pipe from some other bike work? People are always replacing theirs with fancy carbon fiber stuff...so theyre must be plenty of cheap ones around!
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this is the thread of all threads
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You can use any pipe with a 2" inlet opening. That said, I have a yosh pipe here that I have yet to install. It's got a 2.25" opening. The idea here was the price was right on the pipe, and I can get an adapter to make the 2" to 2.25" opening for about $3 from Crappy Tire.
Now just for the time to install it. :roll:
As for jetting,.. I'm not -positive- that you'll have to rejet. Does yours run stupid rich right now? (Dita does) The slip-on will lean it out a little. It may just make it more reasonable. Of course I say that without having been able to try mine on yet.
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gsxr400racer--yeah, I know! hehehhee
stormi--well, I dont know if it runs rich or not...I'm kind of a carb n00b...cant really tell. She seems to run perfectly fine...as far as I know!
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Does she smell gassy? And is there any black carbon on the end of the exhaust can?
That's usually the easiest way to tell.
The other "easy" way is to pull the plugs, and see if they have carbon on them, but the tailpipe is already exposed, no digging. :grin:
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I hate when the girl is gassy! :stickpoke:
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Alright...finally spent some good riding time with El Bandito...
Shes running pretty good, no problems. Fun bike! Starts up right away, seems to warm up pretty quickly, quick enough for a noob like me, and brakes VERY well (at least, compared to the MSF crap bikes!). Now, here are my *slight* issues:
-I cant find neutral when the bike is warmed up. Not a huge deal as it teaches me to stay in 1st at a light, but still, I can never get her into neutral. Sometimes, I cant even shift up from 1st to N/2 while stopped...only when moving. Is this normal for a B4?
-Is the clutch adjustable at all? I notice my friction point is at the end of the clutch travel, and its a pretty small range. I guess I'll get used to it after more seat time....
-My rear brakes SQUEEEEEKS like a mofo! Again...normal B4 thing....or time to get new pads?
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Yes the clutch is adjustable. In the shop manual in the members section will guide you through adjustment. Once your clutch is adjusted properly you should be able to shift into neutral.
No squeeking is not normal. Take a look at the pads.
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I have the shop manual downloaded...is that the part in the general maintence (part 2) about adjust the clutch? I thought that was just to adjust the "play" of the clutch lever?
Or is it somewhere else in more detail? I'll check into that.
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I hate when the girl is gassy! :stickpoke:
Oh! And the guys are pleasant when they are? :stickpoke:
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take your pads out sand them sand your rear disc and start all over should go away unless you have something sticking, what your doing is removing the glaze and letting them re seat in
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-I cant find neutral when the bike is warmed up. Not a huge deal as it teaches me to stay in 1st at a light, but still, I can never get her into neutral. Sometimes, I cant even shift up from 1st to N/2 while stopped...only when moving. Is this normal for a B4?
mine does the same, however since my first moped (nsr50) did that same thing i always put it in neutral before i stopped and i guess i still do that :taz:
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-I cant find neutral when the bike is warmed up. Not a huge deal as it teaches me to stay in 1st at a light, but still, I can never get her into neutral. Sometimes, I cant even shift up from 1st to N/2 while stopped...only when moving. Is this normal for a B4?
I find it easier to get into neutral from 2nd gear... maybe you should give it a try :grin:
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you can adjust your shift linkage to but i have the same problem mainly its due to the gears come with a slight undercut from the factory . I have to lightly move it when i need it to be in neutral
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Rev it a bit and then it will go into neutral. Adjusting your clutch will help too.
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OK...I got some new pads for the rear....I checked the manual how to change pads..it looks too easy to be true. NO tools required? Is that right?
Knowing me I'm gonna screw something up....any tips? :lol: :duh:
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After you stick the new pads in, be sure to hit the brakes a couple of times BEFORE you go for a ride to put the pistons back in place.
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You'lll need a 14mm spanner and a pair of pliers i think.
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Just as a FYI, you can still get the stock suzuki air filter from the dealer. I went in today looking for one and they had it in stock. I almost couldn't believe it. It must be common to other bikes.
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Did you buy one? Do they have any more? How much was it?
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Yes I bought it. I'm not sure if they had anymore. I got it from Cycleworld West (cycleworld.ca), thier number is 416-233-5501. The part number 1378134c10. Price is 16.90 plus tax. It comes pre-oiled so all you have to do is pop it in...
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OOh...not bad! I'm going to be in TO next weekend (long weekend). I'll try to pass by!